460 needs exhuast manifold studs.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 345
Likes: 25
From: Michiana
460 needs exhuast manifold studs.
I have a 1988 F250 460 4 wheel drive. I rebuilt the engine a couple years ago. It was a BEAR to get the exhaust manifold bolts out. I tried everything. Finally had to drill out some snapped ones. I think they were stainless. OK, done.
I was told the cast exhaust manifolds can warp when removed. I have had a bad time trying to get them to seal long term. Tighten down and after a longer trip with hauling several tons of dirt, I think the manifolds get hot and tend to loosen bolts. Today this truck is sounding like a dragster. I tried copper gaskets, but the only ones I found were for a 460 car engine, not a truck. Ports are different.
I live in the rust belt, and use truck in the winter, so I am thinking using stainless manifold studs. Any idea where to get them? Maybe stainless or brass nuts to go with them? Also thinking of machining manifolds to make sure they are true. Any other ideas?
I was told the cast exhaust manifolds can warp when removed. I have had a bad time trying to get them to seal long term. Tighten down and after a longer trip with hauling several tons of dirt, I think the manifolds get hot and tend to loosen bolts. Today this truck is sounding like a dragster. I tried copper gaskets, but the only ones I found were for a 460 car engine, not a truck. Ports are different.
I live in the rust belt, and use truck in the winter, so I am thinking using stainless manifold studs. Any idea where to get them? Maybe stainless or brass nuts to go with them? Also thinking of machining manifolds to make sure they are true. Any other ideas?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2020
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Machine the manifolds so that they are flat. Make sure that the head surface is flat and then bolt them together using no gaskets. A small amount of high temp RTV is ok to use. As far as fasteners go you could use studs but I'd use new 3/8 bolts with a lock washer. It'll stay tight and it won't leak.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 345
Likes: 25
From: Michiana
Machine the manifolds so that they are flat. Make sure that the head surface is flat and then bolt them together using no gaskets. A small amount of high temp RTV is ok to use. As far as fasteners go you could use studs but I'd use new 3/8 bolts with a lock washer. It'll stay tight and it won't leak.
I will start with getting them flat and go from there. Thx
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2,703
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I'm not really sure about the length requirement on the 460 with manifolds. The hole in the head is pretty deep on one side of the port but it intersects the head bolt bore on the other side. At least it does that on the earlier heads. I wonder if studs would make it tough to get the manifold put in place? If not I think that they would work just fine.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Michiana
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,460
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From: Reed Point, MT
I'd recommend not using stainless if you ever have to take them out again. Stainless tends to gall badly.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 345
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From: Michiana
BTW with regular steel here, and with our rust, 9/16" bolt head on a manifold. Sometimes I use a 14mm, 13mm, 1/2" or even a 12mm. The heads will rust that small. Darn salt and moisture.
I know what you mean about stainless. Kind of have to pick the battles.
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