Rough idle / hard start help!
#16
Motorcraft 2150 with 3 vacuum hoses. One going to canister. One going to valve cover and one going to distributor. Which one should I hook it up to? Just learning and I won’t let it beat me. Gauge also reads pressure. Should I run a fuel pressure test. All help is much appreciated. I enjoy figuring out this stuff although it can be frustrating. Thanks in advance.
#17
The vacuum gauge need to go to manifold vacuum.
A port that have vacuum ALL THE TIME.
The port to the dist. is what they cal ported vacuum and should only have vacuum above idle speed so not that one.
Not sure how the line going to the canister works as on later years they used a purge valve both mechanical and electrical so I would say not that one.
I know the one to the valve cover should be for PCV and should have vacuum all the time so this should be a good line to hook the gauge to.
You may also have a vacuum tree on the intake manifold. It is a fitting screwed into the manifold with 3 or 4 nipples that may have hose going to other things or caps. They would be about the size the gauge uses and would be the best to use if you can.
Now I got to ask why was the tank replaced?
Let me guess it had a leak from rust. What do you think the inside of that tank looked like?
Yep rust also and no a filter or 2 will not catch the really fine rust and it ends up in the carb float bowl.
Dont ask how I know this and the tanks did not leak!
I would get a rebuild kit for the carb and new fuel filter(s) and a few cans of carb cleaner.
That carb is easy to rebuild, use the cleaner to spray out the float bowl and all the passages like said.
The sheet that comes with the kit should say where to start with the adjustments, mostly the idle mix screws something like 2 turns out from lightly seated.
Once on and running using the vacuum gauge to adjust is cake.
You want to have the motor up to normal temp, idle speed set to factory as a start.
Turn 1 idle mix screw out maybe 1/4 turn and note what the gauge dose. if it goes up good, if down not so good.
If it goes done turn it back where it was and do the same to the other mix screw.
What you are trying to do is get the highest vacuum reading when adjusting the mix screws evenly.
Recheck the idle speed and you should be ready for a road test.
Now if you know the spark plugs are junk dont adjust the carb till they are replaced as they can throw off the carb adjustment.
When the plugs are out maybe do a compression test and write down the reading so you have them.
This can tell you how good or bad the motor is to start with. If bad no carb adjustments or new plugs is going to help.
Good luck
Dave ----
ps I bring the cement to the mixing plants the last 10 years, 25 to 26 tons at a time
A port that have vacuum ALL THE TIME.
The port to the dist. is what they cal ported vacuum and should only have vacuum above idle speed so not that one.
Not sure how the line going to the canister works as on later years they used a purge valve both mechanical and electrical so I would say not that one.
I know the one to the valve cover should be for PCV and should have vacuum all the time so this should be a good line to hook the gauge to.
You may also have a vacuum tree on the intake manifold. It is a fitting screwed into the manifold with 3 or 4 nipples that may have hose going to other things or caps. They would be about the size the gauge uses and would be the best to use if you can.
Now I got to ask why was the tank replaced?
Let me guess it had a leak from rust. What do you think the inside of that tank looked like?
Yep rust also and no a filter or 2 will not catch the really fine rust and it ends up in the carb float bowl.
Dont ask how I know this and the tanks did not leak!
I would get a rebuild kit for the carb and new fuel filter(s) and a few cans of carb cleaner.
That carb is easy to rebuild, use the cleaner to spray out the float bowl and all the passages like said.
The sheet that comes with the kit should say where to start with the adjustments, mostly the idle mix screws something like 2 turns out from lightly seated.
Once on and running using the vacuum gauge to adjust is cake.
You want to have the motor up to normal temp, idle speed set to factory as a start.
Turn 1 idle mix screw out maybe 1/4 turn and note what the gauge dose. if it goes up good, if down not so good.
If it goes done turn it back where it was and do the same to the other mix screw.
What you are trying to do is get the highest vacuum reading when adjusting the mix screws evenly.
Recheck the idle speed and you should be ready for a road test.
Now if you know the spark plugs are junk dont adjust the carb till they are replaced as they can throw off the carb adjustment.
When the plugs are out maybe do a compression test and write down the reading so you have them.
This can tell you how good or bad the motor is to start with. If bad no carb adjustments or new plugs is going to help.
Good luck
Dave ----
ps I bring the cement to the mixing plants the last 10 years, 25 to 26 tons at a time
#18
Thanks for the tutorial. I need all the help I can get.Tank was leaking at the seam. Not sure if plugs are junk,, I just haven’t replaced since I got the truck. Upon closer inspection; I am going to put in a new hard line for fuel.(pretty crusty). I’ll be whittling away at it a little at a time. Starting to get busy at work. Keep on bringing that cement! Thanks again.
#19
Yep it is picking up.
I already got my loads for Monday.
Most of the time I dont get them till after 5pm on Sunday's
Thing is I retire at the end of the month so I can spend more time on projects in the garage and at the gym for my health.
Good call on the fuel line.
I have a project in the garage the fuel pump started leaking on so it was replaced, whole story on that I wont get into.
I also changed the fuel filter and found it full of rust and I know it is not from the tank as it has been lined 15 years ago.
It had to come from the hard steel metal line from tank to pump on the motor.
My fix was to run ALUM. line as a replacement as it is easy to bend / run and will not rust.
I got it from Summit Racing 5/16" x 25' pretty cheap. They have other sizes too.
I was able to get the old line out in 1 piece and being I wanted the ALUM line bent the same I started at 1 end of the old line and run the ALUM next to it using wire ties to hold the 2 together as I bent it to shape till I got to the other end. Put a little flare on each end to help hold the rubber hose in place.
Worked out pretty good and fit in the car with just a little tweaking.
Have yet to see if the 2nd new pump works or not, maybe over this weekend I will see?
Dave ----
I already got my loads for Monday.
Most of the time I dont get them till after 5pm on Sunday's
Thing is I retire at the end of the month so I can spend more time on projects in the garage and at the gym for my health.
Good call on the fuel line.
I have a project in the garage the fuel pump started leaking on so it was replaced, whole story on that I wont get into.
I also changed the fuel filter and found it full of rust and I know it is not from the tank as it has been lined 15 years ago.
It had to come from the hard steel metal line from tank to pump on the motor.
My fix was to run ALUM. line as a replacement as it is easy to bend / run and will not rust.
I got it from Summit Racing 5/16" x 25' pretty cheap. They have other sizes too.
I was able to get the old line out in 1 piece and being I wanted the ALUM line bent the same I started at 1 end of the old line and run the ALUM next to it using wire ties to hold the 2 together as I bent it to shape till I got to the other end. Put a little flare on each end to help hold the rubber hose in place.
Worked out pretty good and fit in the car with just a little tweaking.
Have yet to see if the 2nd new pump works or not, maybe over this weekend I will see?
Dave ----
#20
#21
Because that corner is where the EGR port is it gets a lot of heat so could be warped?
You can take the plate, a sheet of sand paper and a flat surface, glass is best.
Paper on the flat surface and move the plate around and if not warped should show sign where the paper sanded.
Keep going till it shows flat across the whole plate.
To check the intake remove the 2 studs. 2 nuts jambed together should get them out.
Put something in the holes so dirt etc will not get into the motor.
Then use a flat file across the intake. Just like the plate you should see where the file hits.
Keep that up till it is flat across the face where the plate sits.
If you dont have smog check on the tail pipe I would pull the EGR valve off the plate and make a metal block off plate and bolt the valve back in place.
If they dont do an under hood look for smog leave the vacuum hose off and put a small bolt to plug it off.
You could put it back on the valve but if the valve should leak vacuum you would then have a vacuum leak and why I say plug it with a bolt.
BTW it the EGR valve is held open a little from carbon it will also cause a vacuum leak and make the motor run ruff.
No cement been moving here in NC we have had rain for 2 days now so no work.
Find out tonight if I work Thru for cement or LP.
Off Fri got to take wife to the air port and take care of the fur kids over the weekend.
Dave ----
You can take the plate, a sheet of sand paper and a flat surface, glass is best.
Paper on the flat surface and move the plate around and if not warped should show sign where the paper sanded.
Keep going till it shows flat across the whole plate.
To check the intake remove the 2 studs. 2 nuts jambed together should get them out.
Put something in the holes so dirt etc will not get into the motor.
Then use a flat file across the intake. Just like the plate you should see where the file hits.
Keep that up till it is flat across the face where the plate sits.
If you dont have smog check on the tail pipe I would pull the EGR valve off the plate and make a metal block off plate and bolt the valve back in place.
If they dont do an under hood look for smog leave the vacuum hose off and put a small bolt to plug it off.
You could put it back on the valve but if the valve should leak vacuum you would then have a vacuum leak and why I say plug it with a bolt.
BTW it the EGR valve is held open a little from carbon it will also cause a vacuum leak and make the motor run ruff.
No cement been moving here in NC we have had rain for 2 days now so no work.
Find out tonight if I work Thru for cement or LP.
Off Fri got to take wife to the air port and take care of the fur kids over the weekend.
Dave ----
#22
Home early on account of rain. Carburetor is rebuilt and in. New valve cover gaskets and rear prevent fuel line but I am having one heck of a time getting the front line out. Unbolted brake combination valve and still can’t manage to get more than six inches before it is stuck. Is there anything I can take off without having to have 3 jacks? Thanks in advance. Hope everyone had a great Memorial Day weekend. Keep that cement coming.
#23
Sorry, can't quite figure some of this out. So I have to ask...
What's a prevent fuel line? Pre-bent maybe? If so, what's the "rear" line?
Ok, what's the front line you speak of?
Six inches? From what to where? Your combination valve is the one bolted to the frame just under the engine near the crossmember. Correct?
Can't move it six inches? Something is holding it back? If you have the brake fluid lines (is that what you meant by fuel lines?) still connected, I'm surprised you can even get it to move six inches!
??? Was that more of a rhetorical question? Not surprised if so, because sometimes these things just fight you and you need to improvise!
But if it's really three jacks you're using, then I'm still not sure just where you're working.
I'm sure I'm missing something. Maybe if I took the time to re-read what's going on, where you've been and what you've done, I'd get what you're asking.
If I've forgotten some of the details that would have cleared this up, sorry 'bout that!
Good luck.
Paul
What's a prevent fuel line? Pre-bent maybe? If so, what's the "rear" line?
Ok, what's the front line you speak of?
Can't move it six inches? Something is holding it back? If you have the brake fluid lines (is that what you meant by fuel lines?) still connected, I'm surprised you can even get it to move six inches!
??? Was that more of a rhetorical question? Not surprised if so, because sometimes these things just fight you and you need to improvise!
But if it's really three jacks you're using, then I'm still not sure just where you're working.
I'm sure I'm missing something. Maybe if I took the time to re-read what's going on, where you've been and what you've done, I'd get what you're asking.
If I've forgotten some of the details that would have cleared this up, sorry 'bout that!
Good luck.
Paul
#24
Sorry. Autocorrect on and can’t find my glasses. Rear pre bent fuel line is in. Brake proportioning valve is unbolted from frame. Front pre bent steel fuel line will move away from fuel pump six inches and stop. As for the jacks. Not using any. Everything in the way that is bolted to the frame looks like it needs to be supported to unbolt Thanks in advance and apologize for not being more thorough.
#25
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