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i guess i don't understand. if the hubs aren't locked, your not getting 4wd
Case in point: when you drive up or back up a steep paved drive way or narrow rural road that has sharp turns with a heavy trailer or heavy load in the bed, putting it in 4Lo with both front and rear axles live will cause nasty binding. bypassing the front hubs allows one to take advantage of the lower gearing for better control and oomph without the driveline damage.
The question was, where to put the solenoid........ only ONE poster with an answer in response - "after the factory solenoid". Any other thoughts, warnings, does anyone really know??? I'm inclined to agree with @5Picker, but a reason why would be appreciated......
The question was, where to put the solenoid........ only ONE poster with an answer in response - "after the factory solenoid". Any other thoughts, warnings, does anyone really know??? I'm inclined to agree with @5Picker, but a reason why would be appreciated......
It's logical to put the solenoid between the last electrically controlled component and downstream mechanical parts, these trucks being so electrically garden walled. I doubt too many people with 23+ have done this mod yet so very few people can tell you the "why" and even the "how", we just have to fall back on logic on where to put such an intervention device.
It's logical to put the solenoid between the last electrically controlled component and downstream mechanical parts, these trucks being so electrically garden walled. I doubt too many people with 23+ have done this mod yet so very few people can tell you the "why" and even the "how", we just have to fall back on logic on where to put such an intervention device.
Thanks, yep, I agree.. Was just curious as to potential pitfall, if any, if the switch was placed before the factory switch.
The question was, where to put the solenoid........ only ONE poster with an answer in response - "after the factory solenoid". Any other thoughts, warnings, does anyone really know??? I'm inclined to agree with @5Picker, but a reason why would be appreciated......
I was going to put a solenoid downstream of the factory solenoid too. I wound up just capping the solenoid and using the hubs as manual lockers.
The problem I ran into was a normal 2-port solenoid had the potential of trapping the vacuum signal to the hubs if it was closed after the factory solenoid was energized. This would leave the hubs in an unwanted locked position. I’ve since found a 3-port solenoid that would have worked the way I wanted with the common port tied to the hubs, normal on tied to factory solenoid, and normal off tied open to atmosphere. When energized, the 3-port would block the factory signal and vent the hubs to atmosphere. I just never had enough interest to buy and install one as the manual system is working just fine for me as I rarely need 4x4 anyway. An added bonus is I can exercise the transfer case and front diff occasionally by just switching to 4H in the cab.
The problem I ran into was a normal 2-port solenoid had the potential of trapping the vacuum signal to the hubs if it was closed after the factory solenoid was energized. This would leave the hubs in an unwanted locked position. I’ve since found a 3-port solenoid that would have worked the way I wanted with the common port tied to the hubs, normal on tied to factory solenoid, and normal off tied open to atmosphere. When energized, the 3-port would block the factory signal and vent the hubs to atmosphere.
So my thought is: activate the 2 port solenoid BEFORE switching to 4Lo .... no vacuum to the hubs should keep them unlocked (no venting issues)...then switch to 4Lo. Then reverse the process when finished. What do you think?
So my thought is: activate the 2 port solenoid BEFORE switching to 4Lo .... no vacuum to the hubs should keep them unlocked (no venting issues)...then switch to 4Lo. Then reverse the process when finished. What do you think?
That would work. But in my profession we would never rely on procedures to prevent an issue. Procedures were never considered a viable line of defense in a HAZOP study as it leaves too much room for error.
In your case the procedure would have to be to activate the solenoid before switching from 2H. The hubs are already locked when switching from 4H to 4L.
In your case the procedure would have to be to activate the solenoid before switching from 2H. The hubs are already locked when switching from 4H to 4L.
Excellent point..........Thanks Maybe re-thinking the vacuum switch........
maybe it would be easier to just install a set of manual locking hubs? 🤷🏻♂️
sure you loose the auto function, but it seems to me it would be easier overall
maybe it would be easier to just install a set of manual locking hubs? 🤷🏻♂️
sure you loose the auto function, but it seems to me it would be easier overall
NEVER had a problem with the auto locking hubs on my Super duty(s) - Never had a problem with the 2Lo electrical mod on my '18 SD.
Going to manual hubs doesn't FIX anything for me , just lightens my wallet LOL
maybe it would be easier to just install a set of manual locking hubs? 🤷🏻♂️
sure you loose the auto function, but it seems to me it would be easier overall
The truck already has a good set of manual locking hubs. All you have to do is disconnect the vacuum signal.
I guess it's probably pretty limited use but why does this not come from the factory? My first 4WD truck (1979 Chevy K10) had three levers on the floor - any one of them could be used in any combination with the others - F/R travel gears, Hi/Lo range and 2WD/4WD (plus it had manual locking hubs...).