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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:09 PM
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Star Tool size?

Yo!

Strike plate bushing on drivers door kaput. What is the size of that plastic bushing? More important what size starr/hex tool do I need to remove the strike plate mount??

Auto Z sells assorted pack of sizes for 5.99$ will I find the correct size in solo fashion somewhere?

thanks:
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:19 PM
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Buy a complete strike bolt with the captive washer & plastic bushing for ~$8. It's much better than trying to change the bushing.

You need a Torx T-50 for that, the tailgate strikes, & all the seatbelts. Your camper shell is held on by T-40 Tamper-Torx, but you can convert them to normal T-40s by breaking out the center post with a little punch & hammer.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:30 PM
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Ok, good is the complete strike bolt a universal for ford trucks? Or do I need specific year and make of the truck (Bronco)..
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:40 PM
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It's universal for '80-96 F-series & Bronco, and probably most Ford products of that era. If you find one that looks like what you have, you've got the right part.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:50 PM
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good, thanks.. I'll go to a local auto parts store and get the T-50 torx and the compete striler assemly:
BTW is the T-50 a socket ?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:57 PM
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Yes, I think all T-50 & larger come on 3/8" square drive.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 12:25 AM
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I tend to pick up a handful at the local junkyard. I've found the ones on rear doors of Crown Vics, Town Cars , and Explorers can often be found in brand new condition. And genuine Ford parts at that. I've used them on my F150's, Bronco, Aerostar, and 86 Mustang. So if you find one that "looks" right, it's likely just what you need. I've also found the older ones don't have the extra metal positioner thing. On my older truck, the newer style worked just fine too.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 07:12 AM
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I, also, prefer junkyard parts, and I use the newer style strikes with the anti-jam loop. It keeps the doors from sealing shut in a wreck.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 05:46 PM
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steve,

I got a set of replacement bushings for about $3 at NAPA. Came with four. Unbolted the striker and slid one on. reinstalled striker.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 05:46 PM
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Well; I paid the 7.99$ for the door strike bolt and I got a threaded bolt with plastic sleeve and washer. THe original on my rig did not have a washer , rather it has a flimsy maleable ring. I took the plastic sleeve off the new part and used it on the original strike bolt. The door now sticks when opening- a bit . Is this a break in period or should I rethink this plastic sleeve thing and do some u pick it?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 07:18 PM
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mine sticks just a tad....
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 10:47 PM
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You probably need to re-align the strike to your door, or vice-versa. If you watch VERY closely thru the jamb from the outside as you close the door slowly, you should barely be able to see the door latch meeting the strike post. If you do it slowly enough, you can see the door either RISE slightly as it latches, or FALL slightly, because of interference with the misaligned strike post. It's that interference that's causing the door to hang when opening. Adjust either the door (very difficult) or the strike (easier) so the latch meets the strike directly.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2003 | 08:58 AM
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Ok, I'll try that because notonly does it stick a bit but I do not think I am getting proper latching because I now hear outside noise coming in through the top portion of the door which I KNOW never happened before.
 
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