When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Strike plate bushing on drivers door kaput. What is the size of that plastic bushing? More important what size starr/hex tool do I need to remove the strike plate mount??
Auto Z sells assorted pack of sizes for 5.99$ will I find the correct size in solo fashion somewhere?
Buy a complete strike bolt with the captive washer & plastic bushing for ~$8. It's much better than trying to change the bushing.
You need a Torx T-50 for that, the tailgate strikes, & all the seatbelts. Your camper shell is held on by T-40 Tamper-Torx, but you can convert them to normal T-40s by breaking out the center post with a little punch & hammer.
It's universal for '80-96 F-series & Bronco, and probably most Ford products of that era. If you find one that looks like what you have, you've got the right part.
I tend to pick up a handful at the local junkyard. I've found the ones on rear doors of Crown Vics, Town Cars , and Explorers can often be found in brand new condition. And genuine Ford parts at that. I've used them on my F150's, Bronco, Aerostar, and 86 Mustang. So if you find one that "looks" right, it's likely just what you need. I've also found the older ones don't have the extra metal positioner thing. On my older truck, the newer style worked just fine too.
Well; I paid the 7.99$ for the door strike bolt and I got a threaded bolt with plastic sleeve and washer. THe original on my rig did not have a washer , rather it has a flimsy maleable ring. I took the plastic sleeve off the new part and used it on the original strike bolt. The door now sticks when opening- a bit . Is this a break in period or should I rethink this plastic sleeve thing and do some u pick it?
You probably need to re-align the strike to your door, or vice-versa. If you watch VERY closely thru the jamb from the outside as you close the door slowly, you should barely be able to see the door latch meeting the strike post. If you do it slowly enough, you can see the door either RISE slightly as it latches, or FALL slightly, because of interference with the misaligned strike post. It's that interference that's causing the door to hang when opening. Adjust either the door (very difficult) or the strike (easier) so the latch meets the strike directly.
Ok, I'll try that because notonly does it stick a bit but I do not think I am getting proper latching because I now hear outside noise coming in through the top portion of the door which I KNOW never happened before.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.