When the truck's cold, it has devoloped a habit of making a repetitive squeek squeek squeek when i start movin forward. It only does it when the clutch is engaged.


It seems like it does it more in reverse

is this a sign that the clutch is on the way out?

 

Sounds like a U-Joint maybe????

ftwfred

 

so i fi were to spray some lube at those u-joints, and that temporarily fixes the squeek, that would be a good indication?

 

Yes, And while your under there look for wear on the U joints. Rust coming out from under the caps is a bad sign.
If there is no way to lube them with a grease gun and they are several years old, Exposed to much water, They are probably shot.


Let us know!!!

ftwfred

 

If you have a bad U-joint, you can ususally tell by grabbing the driveshaft and giving it a good shake. There shouldn't be ANY play. Ditto on other suggestions...spray, rust.

 

I had a similar sound and it turned out to be ujoints, the sound was most noticable under gentle acceleration

 

hang on hang...

when you say shake, you mean back n forth, not twisting right? cuz i can twist that sucker quite a bit!

 

I had the same problem with my 92. Rear joint was replaced and all was good. The squeak would turn into a loud knock after a while. The noise almost drove me mad. Thought it was an exhaust leak at first.

 

Lay on your back and push up and down on the driveshaft
there should be no play in the caps on thew u-joint..

ftwfred

 

Twist, shake, whatever.... As you WATCH the driveshaft to rear end yoke/ tranny yoke, while manually applying (twist/shake)pressure...
.. if there is ANY play - the u-joint is probably bad.

When you drop the clutch/step on the gas, an enormous amount of torque is applied. Way more than you can apply with the strongest pair of hands...

ANY looseness that you can detect with "hand " pressure is PROBABLY indicative of a worn out u-joint!

I have also noticed that such worn u-joints are typically "rusted" as suggested above... & very bad - the roller needle bearings are completely GONE !

So, don't feel bad, just replace it! Most folks don't notice a problem 'til much later. We mechanics have a feel for it when something is STARTING to go wrong...

Broncr

 

well i got under there, and yes, you guys are smart. The rear U-joint on the driveshaft has quite a bit of play in it. The twisting play is simply from the transfer case freeplay.

I just popped in some RS5000 shocks (two of the stock shocks were about half as resistive as the others) and also new motor mounts (old ones came out in two pieces), so the truck is running smooooooth as can be. hopefully with the U-joint replaced it'll be running tip top!

Would a bad universal explain the popping noise i hear when i turn in revers? I think it may just be my ghetto-rigged exhaust or the body panel which has a huge dent in it.

 

Still havent gotten the 20 somethin dollars it's gunna cost to get a new u-joint. (hockey season started so money is tight, and the gas tanks are big)

Is it likely that the yokes are hurt also? I'm hoping that the u-joint does all the stress and friction and that the yoke just clamps down on the outside of it?

By shaking that joint, there's an amazing amount of play. I'm suprised my driveshaft hasn't detatched and ignited the front fuel tank. Whatever needle bearings were in there at one point, i doubt there is any fragment of them left now.

 

While it is conceivable that the yokes have been damaged, IMHO they probably aren't. I've had a few u-joints go (really) bad
and the damage has been limited to them.

I don't want to scare you but I'd replace the u-joint(s) ASAP anyway. I've seen driveshafts break loose as the result of a bad U. Once the needle bearings are gone, an enormous amount of strain is transfered to the post, which can then snap. If you're lucky, it's a rear one and the driveshaft just dangles. I've heard reports of fronts going and the driveshaft becoming a sort of pole vault pole, or javelin penetration of the rear passenger area (fortunately, no injuries).

You won't be needing gas if that happens - just an alternate form of transportation...

A popping sound when going from forward to reverse (and back)is a symptom of a bad U. Re-reading earlier posts, the shake motion is best to determine a bad U. Twisting will also reveal looseness in the rear-end or trans/tranny. By shake, I mean grab ahold of the driveshaft near the ujoint and try to "roll" the driveshaft WITHOUT twisting it. Maybe a "stirring motion" would describe it better. This is much easier to diagnose with the WHEELS BLOCKED and the trans in neutral. You can usually see the individual caps that are shot by doing this. The "twist" will also reveal this in the form of play between the driveshaft and yoke. (By grabbing BOTH and twisting in a "screw, unscrew" motion.

Doing it is much easier than describing it...

Broncr

 

Thanks for the thorough explaination broncr. The joint is deffinitly bad. I'm just trying to get a thorough understanding of the symptoms of a u-joint, mainly because i'm curious, but also because i'd like to learn as much about my truck as possible!

I hope i don't do any pole vaulting on the way to the auto parts store.

 

Be sure to position the "zirk" fitting so you can get a grease gun on it once the U is installed. I've put them (U-joints) in "backwards" and then not been able to get to the grease fitting without re-installing the U. A shot of grease every now & then will keep your U's spinning free & good MUCH longer. I think I'll go out & hit mine with some grease RIGHT NOW, while I'm thinking of it.

One last thing - never beat (or tap) on any bearing with a hammer to install it. Use a vice (or clamp) and a socket to press the bearing (cap) into place.

Again - easier done than described-

First off - some U's have two different cap sizes - one for the yoke, one for the clamp. Be sure you have the right U before you start - then be sure you have the right cap to press into the yoke.

Remove one cap from the U (careful not to lose any needle bearings). Pack it full of wheel bearing grease to keep the needle bearings in place. Be very careful not to dislodge one!

Tape the remaining caps on temporarily if you like.

Partially press this cap into the yoke from the outside.
Carefully fit the u joint into the cap once it's pressed part way in & while the other cap (that's still on the u-joint) will still fit inside the yoke. Be careful not to dislodge any of the needles in the open cap - if you do, you won't be able to get both keeper rings to snap in AND the new U won't last long!

Put the keeper ring into the yoke on the opposite "open side".
Carefully continue to press the cap in til the opposite cap is flush against the keeper ring. For the final press, an old socket will press the cap below the surface of the yoke, so that it's keeper ring will snap in.

Should one of the needle bearings become dislodged from the cap being pressed, it will settle into the bottom of the cap & prevent a full seating, which won't allow you to get the second lock ring in.

If that happens, you'll have to start over.

Like I said, this is much easier done than described - as you'll see once your done. You might "practice" by reversing the process when removing the old U - (even if it is thrashed) & then pressing it back together.

As a kicker, some yokes won't work this way - you have to press BOTH caps in from the outside!


Happy trails,

Broncr