Flowney, Agreed on leaving the offset as the path of least resistance. I did on my swap to keep the drive line angle at zero horizontally. Because I did this, I had to notch the crossmember (4x4) so as to clear my AC compressor.

 

Completely agree with that, but I am running an S550 rear suspension in this build. So if the engine mounts are capable of centering the engine in the frame then it will follow correct for the rear centered as well. If they do not allow it to be centered I will have modify/notch the mounts to allow it as I can not have the rear S550 offset for tracking reasons.

 

I am going to look more into this. My other build, a 2011 Jeep JK, also came factory with a non-VDC, but the 2019 Chevy L86 6.2L that I swapped into it has a VDC. I was able to supply key-on battery power to the solenoid side making the compressor fully open, essentially making it a “normal compressor” in operation. With this, I maintained the Jeep high and low side pressure switches, as well as HVAC controls to allow them to control compressor operation. I live in Phoenix and I have never had one issue with discharge pressures being to high or suction being to low causing it to freeze up.

My thought it to first try this and if not, install the full Vintage Air set up.

 

Nice looking truck and great build. Keep the pics coming.

 

Yes, if the IRS pinion is centered you'd want to center the engine/trans as well. Please let us know when you confirm that the Mustang IRS is centered or not. That would impact planning for some if not many of us.

 

I'm enjoying this thread. Subscribed!!!

 

What is your plan for fuel pump, regulator and tank? Are you going to use an EFI tank like Boyd's or stock tank?

 

I have been looking at the Boyd tank but also researching other options. Anyone’s opinion about using the factory aft mounted tank with EFI, possible to convert without it being or looking too hacked up? I will be running a return style fuel system.

 

I ran the stock tank albeit it was new. I installed the efi pump with the return but found the top of the pump contacted the bottom of the bed. I installed a phenolic block to the upper strap as a work around. I used a C5 Corvette filter/regulator which has the built in return. $75. All of it worked very well EXCEPT...because there is no internal baffling in a stock tank, when it had a 1/4 tank of gas or less the pump would cavitate when cornering or accelerating and die. Very embarrassing and unsafe as well. The Boyd's tank IMO is money well spent. It has internal baffeling and has a notch built in for the pump so you don't have the interference that I had.

 

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd609.htm

I have this in one of my trucks. Works well.

 

Actually, I used the PA-4 https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...prod/prd84.htm

Installation is cake. I did tack weld the mounting ring which made installation a lot easier.

 

I initially used the PA-4 pump assembly myself but couldn't find a flat spot on the tank large enough to accommodate it and worried it wouldnt seal over the stamped ribs of the tank. I returned it and their customer service was stellar as they gave me a full refund. Looks like it worked for panterazacc. I ended up using a hyperfuel 340LPH pump which had a much smaller diameter pump housing but it didn't have the baffle surround like the PA-4 does.

 

I used that Hyperfuel in a stock tank and worried about the fuel sloshing away from the puckup as there is no baffle. My dads '85 EFI tank does this when it is low on fuel while going around a corner. I swapped in a Tanks Inc tank with baffle. The factory fuel gauge in the '85 can be a little finicky, so I went with the floatless sender in my '77. Running Dakota gauges in both trucks.

 

Great information on the fuel pump/tank options. Thank you all. Really good insight on other ideas besides the Boyd tank.

my newest challenge is a possible transmission swap. Getting rid of the 10R80 and instead going with the 10R140. My biggest reason is for the control pack option that Ford Racing offers. This would make it much more seamless and operational faster. Other pros are that it is much stronger and I already have one. Haha.
Fitment is obviously a big concern. I emptied the 10R140 out down to the case so it’s lighter and I can easily slap it on the back of the 7.3L, then drop the body on. I am already prepared that the flooring will need cut, but that will push me to do a nicer center console and bucket seats. Win win….. hopefully.

Here is a picture of the 80 and 140 next to each other for size comparison

 

Sorry for such a long time for updates on this:
I have the Godzilla fully torn down and built - BTR cam and limiter, head work, and Wiesco pistons (gapped for boost just in case haha)\
The 10R140 is fully rebuilt with all OEM parts and updated CDF and frotn pump support
Rear S550 suspension is cut in and held in place temp
Ford Performance control pack is being used for controls
Tucked and re-spliced all or most wiring for injectors, coils, and engine sensors under the intake for clean look
Decided to chop the bed and frame down to a short bed
Boyd fuel tank with Aero fuel pump
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors and inline flex fuel sensor for future ethonal
305/35R20 Nitto 555RR on the rear

What i did find out is the powertrain is going to be off centered by about 1.5" to the passenger side for multiple reasons
1. The body and floor pan is off centered
2. The Crown Vic front support/engine craddle is actually off centered to the passenger side on the "up rights" where the engine mounts
3. Although the rear S550 carrier is centered in the subframe, the pinion is off the the passenger side as all ring and pinions are by design
The powertrain is sitting at exactly 0 degress so i will match this by pointing the pinion down to 0 as well

Oh and the bad *** big news is I the engine fires right up and sound like pure American bad *** big block!!