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I guess old tools is now on topic, have this from 1964. Year older than I, last time used 2004. Must have tool if you're working on differentials. Still works perfectly.
I guess old tools is now on topic, have this from 1964. Year older than I, last time used 2004. Must have tool if you're working on differentials. Still works perfectly.
I have no doubt it works perfectly. The real question is does it still work accurately? I worked in inspection at work for 14 years. Checked, calibrated, and thrown out more torque wrenches than I can remember. I've seen bad wrenches straight from the box from Snapon and good ones that are 40+ years old. You never really know until you have it calibrated.
I have no doubt it works perfectly. The real question is does it still work accurately? I worked in inspection at work for 14 years. Checked, calibrated, and thrown out more torque wrenches than I can remember. I've seen bad wrenches straight from the box from Snapon and good ones that are 40+ years old. You never really know until you have it calibrated.
The way I see it is, if it allowed me to rebuild several dozen differentials over 11 years with it successfully, it's probably calibrated good enough and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on my own vehicles.
The way I see it is, if it allowed me to rebuild several dozen differentials over 11 years with it successfully, it's probably calibrated good enough and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on my own vehicles.
Oh I agree. Probably more than accurate enough for home use. Likely well within the +/-20% error of general service and maintenance requirements.
Our tolerances for general production wrenches is +5/-10%. Our inspection department wrenches were +/-5%. Of course these are fully adjustable wrenches to get them within these ranges. Once out of adjustment, we pitch them and order new.
I once took in an old Montgomery Ward beam style wrench my grandpa used in his repair shop. It's probably 70+ years old. It surprisingly checked with 15% if a slow steady pull was used.
I'll search my shop this weekend if I get time for an obsolete tool few may know it's purpose.
Oh I agree. Probably more than accurate enough for home use. Likely well within the +/-20% error of general service and maintenance requirements.
Our tolerances for general production wrenches is +5/-10%. Our inspection department wrenches were +/-5%. Of course these are fully adjustable wrenches to get them within these ranges. Once out of adjustment, we pitch them and order new.
I once took in an old Montgomery Ward beam style wrench my grandpa used in his repair shop. It's probably 70+ years old. It surprisingly checked with 15% if a slow steady pull was used.
I'll search my shop this weekend if I get time for an obsolete tool few may know it's purpose.
Not for home use per se. I'm a professional automotive technician, fancy term for a mechanic with a brain . I used that very wrench working as a dealer line tech for 11 years. Ford warranty work was no exception. My specialty however was the electronic side of things, if you had a warning light pop on the dash and brought it to my dealer, it would wind up in my stall. Didn't mean I kept my hands clean though. I've been up to my elbows and arsewhole in greasy grimy diesel encrusted engines, differentials, xfer cases etc for a very long time....
Tools like the one I posted were built when manufacturing offered a sense of pride rather than just a pay check for those making it. Sadly for better or worse, we now live in a disposable society.
Got to poking around in the garage today. Pulled this puppy off the shelf where it has sat for many years. If I remember correctly, I paid around $100 back in 1978-80. I don't use it much as the parts it's used on are obsolete, but when I need it, I NEED it.
Try to think of what it's for before you scroll down to see what it is.
It's a drum puller for tapered axles. Chrysler up through 1964 and Jeep into the early 1970's. I think Ford may have had them way back, but not after WW2. I have yet to see a drum it can't pull.
Got to poking around in the garage today. Pulled this puppy off the shelf where it has sat for many years. If I remember correctly, I paid around $100 back in 1978-80. I don't use it much as the parts it's used on are obsolete, but when I need it, I NEED it.
Try to think of what it's for before you scroll down to see what it is.
It's a drum puller for tapered axles. Chrysler up through 1964 and Jeep into the early 1970's. I think Ford may have had them way back, but not after WW2. I have yet to see a drum it can't pull.
It's a two jaw pulley puller, but it seems to be missing one piece of the 2 pairs of jaws.
Looks like a standard set of tools in a slide hammer/gear puller kit. My ex gf had a 77 Ford LTD with welded on rear drums. After I and 2 other shops failed to remove them. We traded in the car lol I was just a dumb kid back then and had no idea I could fix it.
It's a two jaw pulley puller, but it seems to be missing one piece of the 2 pairs of jaws.
Nope, this isn't what you think. I have several of the pullers like you mean. This is a dedicated brake drum puller for tapered axles. The threaded center piece is partially in the anchor disc. You thread it in so the arms are close to the anchor. You use a lug nut to bolt it to the lug stud. Slide it around and bolt the next one on and so on. Once all three are bolted around the bolt pattern, you put the double headed handle on the end of the threaded rod.. Tighten it as far as you can by hand, then get a DBH. (Darn Big Hammer) I've used impact tools to tighten them but usually they just sit there and vibrate.
Actual use is to hammer the end of the handle three times to rotate it, then three times on the end of the threaded rod. Then 2 hammers on the handle followed by two on the end of the rod. Bang Bang, ting, ting. Absolutely do NOT stand in front of the hub. Just keep hammering and it will come off. Sometimes it just pops loose and sometimes it will fly. I've had them go 4 or 5 feet once they come loose.
A little brake tip, if you're removing a tapered drum that hasn't been on there a long time here's a sneaky tip. Loosen the center nut ONE turn. Put the cotter pin back and put the wheel back on. Get out on an empty road and swerve side to side hard a few times. A few times the drum will come right off. If you don't need the puller, you've saved some time. (...and busted knuckles.)
Nope, this isn't what you think. I have several of the pullers like you mean. This is a dedicated brake drum puller for tapered axles. The threaded center piece is partially in the anchor disc. You thread it in so the arms are close to the anchor. You use a lug nut to bolt it to the lug stud. Slide it around and bolt the next one on and so on. Once all three are bolted around the bolt pattern, you put the double headed handle on the end of the threaded rod.. Tighten it as far as you can by hand, then get a DBH. (Darn Big Hammer) I've used impact tools to tighten them but usually they just sit there and vibrate.
Actual use is to hammer the end of the handle three times to rotate it, then three times on the end of the threaded rod. Then 2 hammers on the handle followed by two on the end of the rod. Bang Bang, ting, ting. Absolutely do NOT stand in front of the hub. Just keep hammering and it will come off. Sometimes it just pops loose and sometimes it will fly. I've had them go 4 or 5 feet once they come loose.
A little brake tip, if you're removing a tapered drum that hasn't been on there a long time here's a sneaky tip. Loosen the center nut ONE turn. Put the cotter pin back and put the wheel back on. Get out on an empty road and swerve side to side hard a few times. A few times the drum will come right off. If you don't need the puller, you've saved some time. (...and busted knuckles.)
I've worked on thousands of vehicles over the past 40+ years (what I do for a living) and I can honestly ask, WTF is a tapered brake drum? I know what a brake drum is and I know what it means to have a taper. I've never in my life heard those two words being used together when describing brake parts on ANY automobile. Is this something they used 200 years ago? lol
I've worked on thousands of vehicles over the past 40+ years (what I do for a living) and I can honestly ask, WTF is a tapered brake drum? I know what a brake drum is and I know what it means to have a taper. I've never in my life heard those two words being used together when describing brake parts on ANY automobile. Is this something they used 200 years ago? lol
back in the days fords and mopars rear axles had a tapered /keywayed end , that was tightened by a single carterpin'd nut, with out that puller you were not getting the drum/hub assembly off the axle
back in the days fords and mopars rear axles had a tapered /keywayed end , that was tightened by a single carterpin'd nut, with out that puller you were not getting the drum/hub assembly off the axle
back in the days fords and mopars rear axles had a tapered /keywayed end , that was tightened by a single carterpin'd nut, with out that puller you were not getting the drum/hub assembly off the axle
I remember the splned taper shafts axle.
My 64. Barracuda had then.
. I used that very wrench working as a dealer line tech for 11 years. Ford warranty work was no exception. My specialty however was the electronic side of things, if you had a warning light pop on the dash and brought it to my dealer, it would wind up in my stall. Didn't mean I kept my hands clean though. I've been up to my elbows and arsewhole in greasy grimy diesel encrusted engines, differentials, xfer cases etc for a very long time....
