starter or flywheel #2
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From: S. New England
starter or flywheel #2
I have a 1988 Ranger 4WD with a2.9 V6 and the manual transmission and ?47,000 miles. This might be a rather long request for help. My starting problems sound very much like Red Billys. I would like to exhaust all other possiblities before I have to drop the transmission to replace the flywheel. When I start the truck I get an awful grinding noise and it will start. Then if I shut it off and try to start it again i get the grinding noise and the starter may or may not engage the flywheel. I have replaced the starter with a cheap one from Auto Zone. The truck does have a lot of corrosion and the previous owner stated that he replaced the ground wire from the negative side of the battery to the frame rail. I switched the negative cable (ground) to a place under the altenator because I figured the ground needed to be on the motor. To exhaust all possiblities I need help in locating the factory ground location for the negative battery cable and should I purchase another new starter perhaps from ford and try that. Your help will be much appreciated.
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From: Homer, Alaska
It does not sound like you have a ground problem. If the ground was bad, the starter motor would not spin at all. Also, a bad or intermittent ground would not cause a grinding noise. Pull the starter and look at the flywheel teeth. You should be able to see them through the starter opening. There should also be a small inspection plate on the forward facing surface of the bell housing held on by two small screws It will be pretty obvious if the flywheel is bad. You will probably need to rotate the flywheel to check all the teeth (keep your fingers clear). Look for chipped or missing teeth on the wheel and cracks on the flanges. You mentioned a lot of corrosion. It is possible that the mating surface for the starter is compromised causing it to not seat properly. That could also explain the grinding. I doubt that a Ford starter would make any difference with this problem.
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From: S. New England
Thank you. I was hoping it would not have to come to replacing the flywheel because the transmission work OK. I just don't want to put a lot of money into the truck. The dealer estimated $900 to replace the flywheel and clutch (I figured since it was out might as well replace it). Does that soud about right? I feel like if I do it it will take three times longer and who knows whaat else I of the dealer will uncover (I think it has a leaky rear main seal). So if the teeth are worn on the flywheel I take it that the starter barely bites the flywheel hence the grinding. Is there any way to experiment with different teeth? Thanks
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From: Homer, Alaska
If the flywheel really is the problem (ie bad teeth) you don't have many choices. I would pul the starter and bench test it (battery and jumper cables). Make sure the starter is held securely, since there is a lot of torque and it will "jump off the bench" if it is not held down. I doubt that the starter is the problem, but is it an easy cheap and quick check. Also check the teeth on the starter gear, that will be an indication if there is major mechanical damage to the flywheel. In order to change the main seal, you need to pull the xmsn and the flywheel. So be sure to replace it if you repair the flywheel.
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From: S. New England
Thank you for the advice. I did check the teeth and they were worn but I have no reference as to wether it is severe or mild. I also tried shimming one side of the starter so that the teeth of the starter would come closer to the flywheel and it worked one time with no grinding noise. When I tried starting it again back to the same grinding noise. I think it flexed a little and negated the benefit of the shimming. I bought the truck for $400 dollars and I would like to keep my costs to a minimum.
My question is am I opening a can of worms if I go to replace flywheel, rear main seal and while I am at it, the clutch. What else will happen? I am contemplating parting it out and loking for another Ranger. Or do I just attack each problem as they come?
I did notice that after the truck idled for a while and the engine was warm that the oil light came on until I pressed the gas and the oil light went away. Are we talking oil pump pickup dirty or bad oil pump. Is this another thing to do when replacing the rear main seal? Thank you.
My question is am I opening a can of worms if I go to replace flywheel, rear main seal and while I am at it, the clutch. What else will happen? I am contemplating parting it out and loking for another Ranger. Or do I just attack each problem as they come?
I did notice that after the truck idled for a while and the engine was warm that the oil light came on until I pressed the gas and the oil light went away. Are we talking oil pump pickup dirty or bad oil pump. Is this another thing to do when replacing the rear main seal? Thank you.
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From: Homer, Alaska
If the flywheel teeth look "real" shiny, and if they come to a point at the end, then the flywheel is probably worn out. I'm interested in how you shimmed the starter. I am not sure how you could do that and have it flex? What do the teeth on the starter drive look like? That would be a good indicator of the mating surfaces.
The oil pressure may or may not be a problem. First, check the dipstick. If it is full, then you could have a sending unit, oil pump or dirty pickup screen problem. What did the oil look like the last time you changed it? If it was very dirty, try running an engine flush through the engine to see if that helps. If you need to replace the rear main, plan to fix all the things while the engine is out. Don't try to do all this work laying on your back in the gravel. It sounds like there are several problems that will take a lot of time but not a lot of money to fix. If you have the tools and a place to do the work, go for it. Just remember that you only paid $400 for the truck. Is it worth a week or two and another $400 to get it running?
The oil pressure may or may not be a problem. First, check the dipstick. If it is full, then you could have a sending unit, oil pump or dirty pickup screen problem. What did the oil look like the last time you changed it? If it was very dirty, try running an engine flush through the engine to see if that helps. If you need to replace the rear main, plan to fix all the things while the engine is out. Don't try to do all this work laying on your back in the gravel. It sounds like there are several problems that will take a lot of time but not a lot of money to fix. If you have the tools and a place to do the work, go for it. Just remember that you only paid $400 for the truck. Is it worth a week or two and another $400 to get it running?
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From: S. New England
Thanks for your help. The flywheel teeth are shiny and rounded. The starter is brand new. I shimmed the side closest to the engine with a offset starter shim. All I did was put the shim between the inspection plate and the lip of the starter and tightened the two starter bolts. I am going to try a little more shim.
The oil is very dirty and full. Is the sending unit the one that plugs into the side of the oil pan and very close the starter. I will try the engine flush and let you know. But I would like to be able to start the truck without having to push it.
For $400 the truck is not bad and I do think putting another $800 into is worth it, but time and the cold weather makes it less appealing. Maybe something for summer.
The oil is very dirty and full. Is the sending unit the one that plugs into the side of the oil pan and very close the starter. I will try the engine flush and let you know. But I would like to be able to start the truck without having to push it.
For $400 the truck is not bad and I do think putting another $800 into is worth it, but time and the cold weather makes it less appealing. Maybe something for summer.
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Post Fiend
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From: South Jersey
I just read a post either here or on the BII forum and they were talking about needing a 10 tooth starter, most come with 9.
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New User
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From: S. New England
Thank for the help. Great Website. The user dzk007 in Bronco II described the part number from a supplier. I am not going to get my hopes up. I will but it on Monday and try installing ASAP. I hope it works.
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From: S. New England
Just a little update. The part from Carquest is actually a complete starter. I could not find the 10 tooth starter gear. So I went back to autozone and we discovered that the starter was defective ( the shaft that the starter gear slides on could move side to side. Apparently the bushing on the housing that goes into the transmission was drilled out to remove the bushing and replaced with parts from a starter for an automatic transmission. so the story goes.)
If this new starter does not work I will be back looking for a 10 tooth starter to see if that works. I will back with an update.
If this new starter does not work I will be back looking for a 10 tooth starter to see if that works. I will back with an update.
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From: S. New England
Success!! The second starter works without a grinding noise while starting. Now I will tackle the oil light while truck idles after warmed up with a treatment of engine flush followed by a check engine light after truck is warmed up. Thank you everyone for your help.
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New User
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From: S. New England
I spoke to soon. I now get a clicking sound (from the selenoid, I think) while starting. After reading a couple of other posts I will replace the battery cables. I have a new battery and new selenoid. I tried jumping it and it wouldn't start so I have a feeling it is the connections. The new battery was actually going to be used on something else. It has 535 cold cranking amps. Is that enough? The truck came with a deep cycle RV battery but I figured that was not good for the truck am I right or wrong?
