2015 F-250 CC 4X4 PSD. Now has 114K miles on it. The current extended warranty will expire in 2K miles. I have 2 choices. The dealer says they can sell me another Ford backed warranty, but due to the trucks age, it will cost $3200 for 2 years or 24K miles. Or, I can have a local shop install a DCR pump for $3K.

I know that will take care of any future cp4 issues, but I will be on my own for everything else. I would settle on the warranty, except we always hear how Ford tries to weasel out of paying on cp4 failures. I am still on my original pump. This truck has been maintained well, with trans serviced every 50K miles, and the differentials serviced at 60K. Retirement has dropped my annual mileage to 9K-1oK per year.

What do you all think is the better option?

 

My paid off truck's warranty, 7 year/125k miles, ran out this past December. Truck now has 120k miles. I installed the S&S kit last year. Knowing what I know now, if I was you, I'd install a DPK, not hard if you can do basic mechanical work yourself, and depending on what has been replaced already on your truck, the warranty may or may not be worth it... is it a premium care where it's bumper to bumper?

My truck just had an EGR cooler core replaced, both driver's side and passenger side BJs and bearings were already replaced (at different times), tie rod ends replaced, so I'm good for many more miles now. If that stuff has not been replaced, then maybe the warranty will be worth it.

I hope my truck goes way past 200k miles on the original CP4... I'll see what happens. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yes, it would be premium care. The only items the truck has had replaced are, track bar ball joint, front left wheel bearing assembly, Def heater, and all 8 injectors. I can take the hit on things like ball joints, etc. I am more worried about big ticket items such as engine internals, turbo, trans and cab-off repairs...things like that.

My biggest fear is I get the warranty, and they find a way not to cover it if or when my cp4 decides to leave the chat.

Honestly, my needs aren't the same. I just can't bring myself to spend 70K or more on a Godzilla Superduty right now.

 

Install DCR.
Extended warranty mainly does two things. Transfers money from your account to theirs and you get nothing in return. Locks you in as a customer to their already backed up shop for any repairs.
Yes, you get “peace of mind” about repair costs………I would rather have “peace of mind” about being able to get repairs done timely, if needed, at a shop of my choice.
But, of course, this is just my opinion……..which yoou asked for.
Best of luck in your decision.

 

Or anything else for that matter. If you are thinking about the warranty read the fine print and search reviews on how well Ford warranty pays out.
I use to have a home warranty but found out that they can weasel out of a lot of repairs by just claiming owner neglect.

 

Buy a DPK and keep the cash for an actual issue, should any arise.

 

I bought the Extra Care warranty on mine and at 84k it covered a very expensive BCM diagnosis and replacement. So I don't think warranties are a scam.

Having said that, if I was in the OP's shoes I would install a DCR pump and roll on. There really are only two significant repairs that plague these trucks, the fuel pump and the emissions system. Replace the CP4 with a DCR, and get rid of emissions and suddenly all the fear goes away for many many years.

I watched a video of a DPK installation and to me it looks like just changing out the entire pump would only add another 15 minutes to the job, so if you're going that deep into the valley of the engine why not just SOLVE the problem while you're in there? Do a DCR.

 

Buying an extended warranty with the thought they will cover a cp4 replacement had less of a chance of happening than winning the lottery…ford had a very bad reputation on honoring warranty for cp4 stuff…its always the drivers fault in one way or another….if you have full coverage and ford says it’s a water issue …some times comprehensive part of your insurance covers it.

If you put in a gen2 DPK and the cp4 fails…then you would just be out the cost of the cp4…which had dropped in price since the early days.

 

I forgot to mention my DEF heater, a wiper transmission from their screw up and one injector that I would think the tech must have wacked with the EGR housing when he reinstalled it with the new cooler core because it was on that side and I had no issues with an injector leaking from being cracked at the electronic connector part...

Oh yeah, and both my rear leaf springs cracked and were replaced... They found the driver's side crack when they put the truck on the lift to install the passenger side... That's probably a couple grand worth of springs for a 100 dollar deductible payment... I fell into a pile of schitt and came out smelling like a rose with my warranty... But it doesn't always happen that way.

As to your statement of wanting the warranty for the engine internals and transmission, while I never say never, but change your oil on time, do a trans pan fluid drop and fill, with filter, for peace of mind... Or NOT... I've done 3 already and I'm at 120k miles, but just two filter changes. This one I'm going a little further out as my last fluid R&R, the Blackstone report came back good on it but to me, like I did with the 96 which I commercially plowed with, it's easy and cheap maintenance.

As to the engine, as long as you're doing oil/filter changes within reason, I wouldn't worry too much about the engine.

Seems like you're on the fence on the warranty but iMO, that's a lot of money for such a short warranty but I get why it's expensive...

Opinions vary on the DCR or the DPK, but at the bare minimum, a 400 dollar investment to save the rest of the fuel system is worth it to me. Plus I use fuel additive, another very opinionated subject... Either way, I'll cross the DCR bridge when I get to it.

Good luck with your decision.

 

Since i am still under a warranty, i have not used an independent shop yet. The guy I was referred to is supposed to be "mr. Powerstroke" out here and is considered to be one if the best. However, a shop owner still needs to be a salesman of sorts. That being said, he will do a DPK, but does not like them because (his words), they are seeing some issues with low fuel pressure problems, and inconsistency in their effectiveness.

Of course, their most expensive option is the best in their opinion, right??? 😁

 

Many of us here have the S&S Gen 2 kit installed and speaking for myself only, I am having no issues with fuel pressure at all... as a matter of fact, I see slightly higher pressures on my Banks iDash, which IMO, means the flow of fuel through the system has less resistance with the S&S bypass block installed, which changes the flow of fuel in that the CP4 only receives filtered fuel from the secondary fuel filter only while the return fuel goes through the S&S fuel filter before going back to the tank... I have at least 20k miles on my Motorcraft FD4615 set of filters, change them every third oil change. I let the truck tell me when to change the oil and I sample it to send to Blackstone. Normally by this point in the fuel filters life, the primary pressure is down to high 70s/low 80s PSI but my readings from the OEM dual purpose fuel pressure and temp sensor is still in the middle to high 80s. So like I said, I believe the path of fuel created by the S&S bypass block makes the fuel flow easier and hence, slightly higher pressure read there. Just the way I see it...

 

Best to keep the money in your account and be self insured. If it doesn't break, you're money ahead. If it does, you fix it and move on.

 

This kit protects the entire fuel system in the event of a pump failure?

Did you install.yourself? My mechanical abilities lately have been limited to things like brakes, trans pan drops, fan clutches, and on the daughters car, altenators and a/c compressor.

 

Yes, it protects the fuel system when the CP4 goes boom. Plenty of info here on S&S's website here.

Once installed, the bypass block only lets clean filtered fuel supply the CP4 and the unfiltered return fuel is blocked off, sent to the S&S filter to be filtered before continuing back to the fuel tank.



S&S came up with the original system which just included the bypass block and a short run of hose. But the problem was that the debris could still contaminate the rest of the system by back feeding the system through the short bypass hose. With the new system, the supply hose is split off 25 inches away from the CP4 so no danger of the debris backfeeding into the fuel system supply. All contaminated return fuel, if the CP4 blows up, is sent to the filter first, then goes back to the hose where the out hose from the filter goes to the tank return line. I have a pretty good grasp of what it's doing by without going under the hood with that diagram above and looking at the factory quick disconnects, that's about as good as I can explain it...

Make sure you watch the videos they have there on the product webpage and they also have more on their You Tube channel where they intentionally damage the CP4, put it back together and drive it to prove their kit works and to show that you can still drive the truck to get it home or to a shop with the damaged CP4. They do that with an 11 to 16 gen truck and a Alumina Duty truck as well.

Yes, I installed the kit myself. I have a thread on my install here. There are others. If you can do the work you just described, you can install this kit... the hardest part is getting ready, pulling off vacuum lines, etc and then removing the upper part of the intake manifold... I have tips in my thread. Let me know if you have any more questions.. You can definitely do this.

 

Do NOT use an Ebay or Amazon DPK. Use a known good one, S&S and SPE are the only ones I would trust.