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I have a 1994 inline 6 with a 5 speed manual trans I just replaced the clutch pressure plate slave cylinder flywheel pilot bearing and master cylinder. I have bleed the system over and over again and can’t not easily shift it in to first or reverse when the truck is running but no problem when the truck is turned off. Any suggestions on what to do, I’ve try bleeding it with a vacuum bleeder as well as by pressing down on the petal and cracking the value lose. I have attached a picture of the style of transmission I have.
Keep bleeding (pumping) it
Did you replace the slave cylinder?
The OP added this after you asked?
Originally Posted by brs068
I have a 1994 inline 6 with a 5 speed manual trans I just replaced the clutch pressure plate slave cylinder flywheel pilot bearing and master cylinder.
Does the pedal feel normal? Clutch disk installed facing the correct side?
You "have bled the system over and over again" means what exactly?
You realize that you need to pump the clutch to complete the bleeding process with a hydraulic clutch right?
You can't just use the bleed screw and get completely done. meaning get all of the air out of the system
So, you use the screw to get some air out then start pumping
Between 100 and 200 pumps usually does it with new parts
You "have bled the system over and over again" means what exactly?
You realize that you need to pump the clutch to complete the bleeding process with a hydraulic clutch right?
You can't just use the bleed screw and get completely done. meaning get all of the air out of the system
So, you use the screw to get some air out then start pumping
Between 100 and 200 pumps usually does it with new parts
So the vacuum bleeder that was also tried won’t work?
Does the pedal feel normal? Clutch disk installed facing the correct side?
the pedal to me feels very weak and the clutch I installed correctly with the help from of a mechanic who’s shop I work at and had him help replace everything
You "have bled the system over and over again" means what exactly?
You realize that you need to pump the clutch to complete the bleeding process with a hydraulic clutch right?
You can't just use the bleed screw and get completely done. meaning get all of the air out of the system
So, you use the screw to get some air out then start pumping
Between 100 and 200 pumps usually does it with new parts
we pumped it and bleed it by hand and by vacuum pump and well as just pumping it keep the fluid topped over the whole time in the separate times here we pumped it well over 200 hundred times
Are you getting a good stream of fluid out of the bleeder screw? Are the hydraulic parts all the same brand? Could the line not be fully seated into the slave cylinder?
Are you getting a good stream of fluid out of the bleeder screw? Are the hydraulic parts all the same brand? Could the line not be fully seated into the slave cylinder?
getting good pressure from the line and we have double checked all the connections no leaks and everything is the same brand
Right, you can vacuum bleed one till next week and not get anywhere as far as a good pedal
You need to pump it
Did you read post #7? Was that not sufficient? Do you mean to pump it 100-200 times, crack open the bleeder screw and repeat? Genuinely curious since I installed a pre-bled master cylinder and line. When I attached the line to the slave cylinder everything was good to go.
Pedal box bushings and the bushing for the clutch master. $30 or so from Ford.
COMMON with age on any vehicle, let alone one that is 30 years old. The amount of slop from the initial pedal movement before it engages the clutch master is wild. If you do not have full pedal travel, you will not be able to go easily into gear either.
Removal 1.Disconnect the battery negative cable. and clutch disc from flywheel. Remove the 2.Remove external cylinder clutch slave, or mainshaft bearing roller only if replacement is hydraulic line quick disconnect on concentric needed. cylinder clutch slave applications using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70552-A. 3.Remove clutch release shaft, if equipped. 4.Remove dust cover, if equipped. 5.Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to Manual Transmission Removal. 6.Mark the assembly position of clutch pressure 7.Remove clutch pressure plate, cover assembly
CAUTION: The 7.3L cover assembly bolt is 5/16 inch x 18 x .75 inch while the 7.5L MFI cover bolt Is 5/16 Inch x 18 x .92 inch. The .92-inch bolt CANNOT be used with the dual mass flywheel because it will extend beyond the inner surface of the secondary flywheel and interfere with the primary flywheel. Only the .75-inch cover bolt can be used with the dual mass flywheel.
Installation
1.Position clutch disc on flywheel so Truck Clutch Alignment Shaft D79T-7550-A or equivalent can enter clutch mainshaft bearing roller to align disc. 2.Position clutch pressure plate and cover assembly on flywheel. 3.Align clutch pressure plate and clutch disc, and install the retaining bolts that fasten assembly to flywheel. 4.If installing original clutch components, use the location marks made during removal. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Refer to Specifications at the end of this section. 5.On 7.3L diesel and 7.5L gas engines, clean and lubricate the transmission main drive gear bearing retainer. Clean and lubricate the bearing hub bore and install on the main drive gear bearing retainer. Clean and lubricate the clutch release lever stud and fingers of the clutch release shaft. 6.Install the transmission. Refer to Manual Transmission Installation. 7.Position clutch release shaft, if equipped, into clutch release hub and bearing and align with clutch release lever stud. Push upward on clutch release shaft until snapped into position. 8.Install clutch release lever dust shield, if equipped. 9.Install the external cylinder clutch slave, or attach hydraulic tube quick connect fitting.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy. 10.Connect battery negative cable. 11.Operate vehicle to check clutch operation.
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With External Slave Cylinder
1.Clean reservoir cap and slave cylinder in area of tube connection. 2.Remove slave cylinder from transmission bellhousing, then use a 3/32 inch punch to drive out pin that holds tube. Remove tube from slave cylinder and place end into a container of waste fluid. 3.Hold slave cylinder so connector port is at an angle of approximately 30° then fill with approved DOT 3 brake fluid. Rock or push gently on push rod to expel all air. Ensure no moisture or dirt enters slave cylinder. 4.Ensure all air is expelled, then install slave cylinder. 5.Gravity fill master cylinder and tube. Fluid should flow from open end of tube into waste container, but clutch master cylinder reservoir must be kept full. When fluid is flowing at a steady rate and fluid level is at step in reservoir, install diaphragm and cap, then the end of tube into slave cylinder. 6.Replace pin that holds tube to slave cylinder. 7.Remove slave cylinder from transmission. Then, while holding cylinder so that tube port is at highest point, push pushrod slowly into cylinder and slowly release. 8.Install slave cylinder on transmission, then cycle clutch pedal rapidly 10 times through a travel of approximately 1 inch and wait 2 minutes. Pedal should be hard within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of travel. 9.Verify correct clutch operation by starting vehicle and attempting to shift into Reverse from Neutral position. If gears clash, clutch hydraulic system may not be fully bled, or other components may be at fault.
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Using coupling disconnect tool No. T88T-70522-A or equivalent, disconnect hydraulic coupling at transmission by sliding white plastic sleeve toward clutch slave cylinder while tugging on tube. 2.Clean area around clutch master cylinder reservoir cap, then remove cap and fill to step with suitable DOT 3 brake fluid. 3.Using screwdriver or equivalent tool, depress internal mechanism of male coupling to open valve. Then, while holding valve open, depress clutch pedal fully and hold. 4.Remove screwdriver from coupling to close valve, then release clutch pedal. Clutch master cylinder must be kept full at all times to prevent air from entering system. 5.Refill reservoir to step, then operate valve and clutch pedal as described above. Reservoir may again need to be filled. 6.Close reservoir, then reconnect coupling to clutch slave cylinder. When coupling is secured, cycle clutch pedal as quickly as possible through 5 to 10 strokes. 7.Wait 1 to 3 minutes, then repeat clutch pedal cycling 3 more times with 1 to 3 minutes between each set of 5 to 10 strokes. 8.Loosen clutch slave cylinder bleed screw, then depress and hold clutch pedal while torquing bleed screw to 2.2-3.7 ft lbs. 9.Refill reservoir to step, then check clutch operation. If clutch does not release fully, indicating air has remained in system, repeat procedure.
============================== REMOVAL 1.Remove push rod and retainer bushing from cross-shaft lever pin. 2.Disconnect interlock switch connector plug. 3.Remove two nuts and support bracket retaining clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly to firewall. 4.Disconnect hydraulic tube from clutch master cylinder. 5.Remove clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly from firewall. 6.Remove clutch master cylinder from vehicle.
INSTALLATION 1.Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: a.Ensure routing of tubes follows same routing as removal, keeping all tubes away from hot exhaust pipes. Install all tubing retaining clips. b.Ensure clutch fluid is full, then depress clutch petal at least ten times to verify smooth operation and proper release. Do not overfill reservoir, as upper part must accept fluid that is displaced from slave cylinder as clutch wears. c.Bleed system.
=================
TSB:
Hydraulic Clutch - Bleeding Procedure Service Tips
Article No. 93-12-19
06/09/93
^CLUTCH - "SOFT" UNRESPONSIVE CLUTCH PEDAL - AIR ENTRAPPED IN HYDRAULIC SYSTEM - SERVICE TIPS
^CLUTCH - HYDRAULIC - UNABLE TO RELEASE - AIR ENTRAPPED IN SYSTEM - SERVICE TIPS
^CLUTCH - HYDRAULIC BLEED PROCEDURE - SERVICE TIPS
^TRANSMISSION - M50D AND ZF LIGHT DUTY - GEAR CLASH - AIR ENTRAPPED IN CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM - SERVICE TIPS
ISSUE: A "soft" unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system.
ACTION: Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the bleed procedure specified in the 1993 Service Manual. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding.
The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles.
RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR
The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Rangers, Explorers and Aerostars. Follow the bleed procedure as outlined in the 1993 Service Manual, Page 08-00-6. This procedure with the addition of the bench bleed process is included in this TSB article.
NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING DRY CLUTCH CYLINDER OR TUBE SERVICE PARTS, DO THE BENCH BLEED PROCEDURE FIRST.
BENCH BLEED
The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently. Refer to Figure 1.
1.Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern.
2.Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body, Figure 1.
3.Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vice).
4.Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve, Figure 1.
5.Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod.
6.Close quick connect valve.
7.Release master cylinder pushrod.
8.Fill reservoir.
9.Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times.
10.With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows:
a.Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air.
b.If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir.
11.When the movement of the pushrod is .160" (4 mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.
ON VEHICLE BLEED PROCEDURE, CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER
Under normal conditions, disconnecting the clutch coupling will not introduce air into the system. However, if there appears to be air in the system (spongy pedal or insufficient bearing travel), the system must be bled. See Figure 2. The following procedure is used with the hydraulic system installed on the vehicle.
1.Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with a coupling disconnect tool (T88T70522A) or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.
2.Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
3.Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (C6AZ-19542-AA or BA) (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
CAUTION: BRAKE FLUID MUST BE CERTIFIED TO DOT 3 SPECIFICATION.
a.By hand, apply 10-15 lbs. to clutch pedal.
b.If pedal is hard (.25-.50" movement), skip to Step 9.
c.If pedal is spongy, proceed to the next step.
4.Using a small screwdriver....
a.Depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve.
b.While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
5.Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
6.Release the clutch pedal.
7.Refill the reservoir to level at step.
NOTE: THE RESERVOIR MUST BE KEPT FULL AT ALL TIMES TO ENSURE THAT THERE WILL BE NO ADDITIONAL INTRODUCTION OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM.
8.Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
9.Install cap on reservoir.
a.Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.
b.Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
10.Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
11.Wait one to three minutes.
12.Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.
13.Loosen the bleed screw which is located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection.
14.Depress and hold the clutch pedal while tightening the bleed screw 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 lb.ft.).
15.Refill the reservoir to level at step.
16.The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch. Check the clutch reserve per the instruction in the 1993 Service Manual, Section 08-00.
F-SERIES, BRONCO
Since full size vehicles have master cylinders which are mounted in a level attitude, they bleed more efficiently than do compact vehicles. However, some difficulties may still be encountered if the new procedure is not used.
VEHICLES WITH CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDERS
The procedure given in the Service Manual on page 08-00-9 is incorrect. Use the same bleed procedure as specified for the compact vehicles which is included in this article. The optional bench bleed procedure may be used, but is probably not necessary.
VEHICLES WITH EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDERS
The procedure in the 1993 Service Manual on page 08-00-10 should be modified as follows:
1.Do not use the Alternate Method.
2.After Step 7 and before Step 8, do the following...
a.Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
b.Holding the cylinder so that the port for the tube is at the highest point, slowly push the pushrod into the cylinder and slowly let it return. Be sure the reservoir is full of fluid beforehand. Repeat this step two more times.
c.Reattach the slave cylinder to the transmission.
d.Rapidly depress the clutch pedal 10 times through a travel of about 1" (25.4 mm).
e.If the pedal is not hard within .25" (6.35 mm) to .5" (12.7 mm) of travel, repeat Step d.
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