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That's a good question about your screws for the person that installed it. I'm thinking that the nuts must have vibrated off. Look around for them. I don't think that the carb base is threaded for a screw.
Those 1 barrel carbs are famous for that. You have to take the carb off to tighten them.
X2
While you are at it check the manifold to head bolts if they are loose too.
You must be some where it is hot all year long as the choke is wired open why?
I also dont see any of the hot air tubing to the choke also why?
Dave ----
X2
While you are at it check the manifold to head bolts if they are loose too.
You must be some where it is hot all year long as the choke is wired open why?
I also dont see any of the hot air tubing to the choke also why?
Ease up Dave, he admits he's new to this. Let's tackle the loose carb mounting screws (never seen that before) and then go into the details.
@Ebagi If there were nuts on those screws, I would suggest you use thread distorting lock nuts instead of whatever may have been installed when the carb was replaced. That way they won't work themselves loose and you won't have to worry about a NyLoc (locking nut using a nylon insert) going soft from engine heat.
Ease up Dave, he admits he's new to this. Let's tackle the loose carb mounting screws (never seen that before) and then go into the details.
@Ebagi If there were nuts on those screws, I would suggest you use thread distorting lock nuts instead of whatever may have been installed when the carb was replaced. That way they won't work themselves loose and you won't have to worry about a NyLoc (locking nut using a nylon insert) going soft from engine heat.
I did not mean to jump on him, I was just pointing out that the carb also has other issues and if he is or someone else is, pulling the carb off to tighten the screws might as well fix the choke too.
If he thought it ran good till it came loose then wait till the choke works!
As for using Lock Tight on the screws I dont know if I would?
What if down the road I wanted to rebuild the carb and could not remove the screws?
Guess you could use the blue type as they say that can be removed but never tried.
I think they make a Purple lock tight that would hold the screws but would also come apart when you needed to.
Dave ----
I did not mean to jump on him, I was just pointing out that the carb also has other issues and if he is or someone else is, pulling the carb off to tighten the screws might as well fix the choke too.
If he thought it ran good till it came loose then wait till the choke works!
As for using Lock Tight on the screws I dont know if I would?
What if down the road I wanted to rebuild the carb and could not remove the screws?
Guess you could use the blue type as they say that can be removed but never tried.
I think they make a Purple lock tight that would hold the screws but would also come apart when you needed to.
I didn't think you were being too aggressive, it's just when you're new to something (like the o.p.), multiple people suggesting you do multiple things can lead to confusion. We've identified a bunch of issues, let's do them one-at-a-time.
I did not suggest Loc-Tite (and wouldn't use this myself). I suggested thread distorting lock nuts. Sometimes they're referred to as Stover nuts. They work like a NyLoc but use mechanical tension, instead of nylon, to resist loosening. You use them in situations where heat could have an effect (as in this case) on the nylon. You could also use lock washers but there may not be enough room on the screws for both a lock washer and a nut.
The Carter YF carb has 3 parts a top (pc1) that holds the choke and is held on with think 5 screws.
The top is held on to the main body (pc2) with said screws.
The main body sits on the base (pc3) that is held with screws from the bottom and why the carb has to be removed from the intake to get to the screws.
The only nuts are 2 that holds the carb to the intake manifold and they done normally come loose.
It is the base to the main body that come loose.
The OP knows now he / she needs to remove the carb to tighten the screws.
If they ask, either here because we are taking about this carb or start a new post, about the choke heat tubes when they do work on it they will know how that gets fixed and can do it at the same time.
Also being new they may not of known that there were heating tubes for the choke as they might of been gone when they got the truck.
All they knew was it ran like junk because the choke did not open and why the choke was wired open?
We are here to help and teach
Dave ----
Let's tackle the loose carb mounting screws (never seen that before) and then go into the details.
