u joint replacement
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 813
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From: NJ
u joint replacement
well at 120000 mile s my bronco needs rear u joints. whats up with that double thingy in the front of the drive shaft. is there any thing special about changing those u joints or is it the same as the other one just that there is 2. any input is appreciated.
bob
bob
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 573
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From: Medina, Tn.
That is a double cardon joint and yes, it is 2 u-joints but there is a centering bearing inside that went bad in mine. Cost about $60, from Ford since no one else had one when I needed it. I ended up paying a driveline shop $25. to do the cardon joint. I supplied the joints though. Well worth it in my opinion but you can try it yourself.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
It's not that difficult, if you've replaced U-joints before, but you have keep track of the needle bearings or you'll ruin it as you install it. The "Center Socket Yoke" has a swivel ball in it with needle bearings for the pin on the opposing yoke.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 813
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From: NJ
i have replaced u joints many times over the years so i feel that i can handle the job. what exactly is the purpose of the double cardon joint. this is the only vehicle that i owned that ever had it?
if the u joints or centering bearing is bad what would the symptoms be?
if the u joints or centering bearing is bad what would the symptoms be?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
The purpose of the Double Cardan (DC) is to divide the total flex angle of the joint between 2 U-joints so neither one binds. Many people incorrectly refer to a DC as a "CV joint" (Constant Velocity), but it's not, and doesn't do what a CV does. A CV keeps the driveline's speed from oscillating due to flex, but a DC won't cure or even reduce the velocity variations inherent to any U-jointed shaft. DCs are used on short driveshafts that connect to relatively long-travel suspension members, like the rear axle on a Bronco. The front driveshaft is actually longer (by several inches) which is why it doesn't have a DC. Pickup rear driveshafts are also longer, which is why they don't have DCs.
A bad u-joint or centering ball will produce a serious shake that's proportional to wheel speed, and usually dependent on driveline load. (If it comes & goes just by applying & releasing the gas, it could be a u-joint problem.)
A bad u-joint or centering ball will produce a serious shake that's proportional to wheel speed, and usually dependent on driveline load. (If it comes & goes just by applying & releasing the gas, it could be a u-joint problem.)
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: NJ
hey steve
mine bronco has developed a vibration at about 2000 rpm in second gear and i hear a squeak squeak squeak whenim rideing next to a wall or guard rail, it is more pronounced as i slow down the vibration goes away as soon as my speed is over the 2300 rpms but the squeak seams to be about driveshaft speed. does this sound like a u joint or the double cardon joint to you? if i remove the driveshaft i will replace all 3 joints just dont want to get in a bind with the dc joint. i only have the one vehicle and cant aford to lay it up for more than one afternoon. also are the u joints all the same or are the dc joints different than the other one? thanks again you are a big help
bob
mine bronco has developed a vibration at about 2000 rpm in second gear and i hear a squeak squeak squeak whenim rideing next to a wall or guard rail, it is more pronounced as i slow down the vibration goes away as soon as my speed is over the 2300 rpms but the squeak seams to be about driveshaft speed. does this sound like a u joint or the double cardon joint to you? if i remove the driveshaft i will replace all 3 joints just dont want to get in a bind with the dc joint. i only have the one vehicle and cant aford to lay it up for more than one afternoon. also are the u joints all the same or are the dc joints different than the other one? thanks again you are a big help
bob
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
The rear U-joint (at the diff) is different from the front 2, but the parts store where you buy them will know that.
You could try just greasing them to kill the squeak for a while - if it works, you'll know the U-joints need to be replaced. If it DOESN'T work, you'll know to look elsewhere. Check the brakes, wheel bearings, etc.
You could try just greasing them to kill the squeak for a while - if it works, you'll know the U-joints need to be replaced. If it DOESN'T work, you'll know to look elsewhere. Check the brakes, wheel bearings, etc.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
After three tries in replacing the yoke and ujoints with it, I said F*** it. I kept jacking up the centering pin and needle bearings for it. I got tired of the shaking going down the road so I paid the $75 to have a drive line shop do it for me. SO if you do it yourself, pay real CLOSE attention to the centering pin and bearings. The ujoint in the yoke come in and out about the same as rregular ones. Just take a little bit of imagination to get em out.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Pittsburgh (Iron City)
this sounds like a another common problem. I think mine is the poster board for common bronco problems....am out the door to try the grease thing, as mine has that same squeak as mentioned and a nasty shimmy under load...will post results.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 72
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From: Buffalo Ny
My 79 centering bearing went out and there was no one who had one. I had to get a custom driveshaft made at a shop paid $160 for the complete front shaft but well worth it. I swear it is inbreakable. If you are doing some serious 4 wheelin invest some money and save in the long run. Custom shafts esp on lifted truck that play hard are the way to go. I would have to change my old ujoints after 2 trips to the mudsling without fail. With the new shafts I have been around 10 time and the ujoints are still great 
Kevin
Kevin
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Joined: Mar 2003
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I have the same damn squeek in my 89EB 351W. I replaced the front u joint on the driveshaft, and one on the rear. The squeek is still there. I know now that there are three u joints on the rear driveshaft. Sould I replace the other two? No vibration [from what i can tell]. While i have the mechanic replace the other u joints, are there any other things I should change while hes at it? Like other u joints?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 185
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I have the same damn squeek in my 89EB 351W. I replaced the front u joint on the driveshaft, and one on the rear. The squeek is still there. I know now that there are three u joints on the rear driveshaft. Sould I replace the other two? No vibration [from what i can tell]. While i have the mechanic replace the other u joints, are there any other things I should change while hes at it? Like other u joints?
Does any one know if i have the double cardan yoke?
Does any one know if i have the double cardan yoke?
