rough/ surging idle
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
The bottom picture is the big plug, the silver box above that it plugged into is the computer that can go.
On the top picture, that is just a plug you unplugged from the distributor correct? That will do you no good. Take another picture of the driver's side fender, you should have a ignition coil over there. That is where the wire is that you need.
On the top picture, that is just a plug you unplugged from the distributor correct? That will do you no good. Take another picture of the driver's side fender, you should have a ignition coil over there. That is where the wire is that you need.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
The bottom picture is the big plug, the silver box above that it plugged into is the computer that can go.
On the top picture, that is just a plug you unplugged from the distributor correct? That will do you no good. Take another picture of the driver's side fender, you should have an ignition coil over there. That is where the wire is that you need.
On the top picture, that is just a plug you unplugged from the distributor correct? That will do you no good. Take another picture of the driver's side fender, you should have an ignition coil over there. That is where the wire is that you need.
the actual “ignition coil” was on the block, which i also removed since the HEI distributor already has one built in. here is the coil i removed as the wires quite literally crumbled off.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
Also, another question.
Is the oil pressure sensor a small elbow connected to the rear of the block on the passenger side? how would it operate if it’s part of the main harness that’s now disconnected?
Is the oil pressure sensor a small elbow connected to the rear of the block on the passenger side? how would it operate if it’s part of the main harness that’s now disconnected?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,948
Likes: 4,126
From: Angier, NC
No that sound like the temp gauge wire.
The oil sensor wire would be on the left side ( left & right is ALWAYS when sitting in the drivers seat) in this case driver side and if you have a gauge would be a large round thing.
If you follow / trace the wires from that harness you pushed thru the firewall most should just unplug from what ever they are plugged into.
I think the only one is a wire tied into the oil pressure wire. when you cut the wire cut it on the computer harness side and not the side that needs to be hooked back to the oik sender.
Dave ----
The oil sensor wire would be on the left side ( left & right is ALWAYS when sitting in the drivers seat) in this case driver side and if you have a gauge would be a large round thing.
If you follow / trace the wires from that harness you pushed thru the firewall most should just unplug from what ever they are plugged into.
I think the only one is a wire tied into the oil pressure wire. when you cut the wire cut it on the computer harness side and not the side that needs to be hooked back to the oik sender.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
Looks like you got too far ahead getting rid of wiring. If you had the old wires that went to the old coil in your hand, it would be easy. Your oil and water temp wires go to one of those fender plugs correct? Do they go to the one with 3 wires or the plug with 4 wires?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
Looks like you got too far ahead getting rid of wiring. If you had the old wires that went to the old coil in your hand, it would be easy. Your oil and water temp wires go to one of those fender plugs correct? Do they go to the one with 3 wires or the plug with 4 wires?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
The old coil wires that are still there, one is darkgreen/yellow and the other one is white/lightblue? Take the white/lightblue and run it to your power terminal on your new HEI. Done, it's ready to fire. The white/lightblue will have power when you turn the key to run and start.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
The old coil wires that are still there, one is darkgreen/yellow and the other one is white/lightblue? Take the white/lightblue and run it to your power terminal on your new HEI. Done, it's ready to fire. The white/lightblue will have power when you turn the key to run and start.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
Here is the ignition wiring for your original computer ignition system. The connector C325 is the wrong one for your HEI. If you use the red/lightgreen wire, it will have the resistance in it and that is not correct for the HEI. There should be another connector over there laying on the fender C321, that has the white/lightblue stripe wire in it. That is the one you need.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
Update: carb has been installed, new sparks, new plug wires, and HEI distributor. won’t fire at all, confirmed spark, made sure to install distributor at TDC. when fed gas, it will not start at all, but will backfire like nuts. there also isn’t any gas that i can see that’s getting to the carb, which is my first issue. but when i do give it gas it backfires. any insight? HELP! i’m just a young buck trying to fix his truck!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
How did you find TDC? Not many people know the proper way to find it. #1 piston will come around to the top twice during a cycle, the firing cycle which you want, and the exhaust cycle which you do not want.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
I used my haynes book which explains in order to find TDC, you must match the timing mark on the crank to the timing mark on the engine.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,948
Likes: 4,126
From: Angier, NC
As Dave said it comes around 2 times.
Pull #1 plug, it is that vary front one.
Pull the power wire off the dist. so you dont have spark.
It helps to have a starter button or a helper for this next part.
Put your finger over the plug hole NOT IN IT!
Tap the starter button or have helper just tap the key DO NOT CRANK IT.
When your finger gets pushed off from compression, stop dont tap the button or key.
Check the timing marks, they should be close.
Turn the motor over by hand, forward or back, to line the marks up on TDC.
Now pop the dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing to is it where the #1 plug wire is?
If not there are 2 ways to fix this.
1- (right way) pull the dist. turn the rotor so it points to the #1 plug tower and drop the dist. back in, just note the rotor will turn a little as it goes in.
2- (not really the right way but works) move all the plug wires so #1 wire is where the rotor is pointing to and do the rest in firing order.
As for the gas to / in the carb how much gas you have in the tank?
Some times it takes a lot of cranking to get fuel from tank to carb. You may need to put a little gas down carb and once you can get it to run more than a back fire I bet gas will get to the carb and run all the time.
Let us know how you make out. (Karl no not his love life
)Dave ----