I had the last set of 7.3 battery cables made for $175 I think. I bought an extra set at that time. Let me go look.

 

I’m still gonna continue to urge you do pushrods and valve springs while the engine is on a stand

 

Last oem motorcreft cable I bought was in 2018 off Amazon. It was $100. Can't get them anywhere now.

 

I know, I was just saying I had a bunch of 2 gauge that was given to me. A spool of it actually. I know the cables need to be bigger than what I have, I was just wondering what size y'all redid yours with?

 

Thatd be awesome! I could buy them from you at the GTG if you locate them!

 

Yeah, the more I think about it I think I will. It will put my engine install back probably a month or 5-6 weeks due to having so much work lined up, it will be hard to find time for the swap this time of year but, I think I can drive my truck like it is for a few months if need be. I though it was 1.5 quarts low on oil but I added a little bit and now it's reading over full. It has always read weird. It seems to fluctuate a lot depending on oil temp, if the engine has been sitting etc. so what I'm getting at is I still have a tad overfull on oil, and it hasnt gone down science I returned from my trip with the parts truck so it seems to not be burning much oil at all.

I will go ahead and change push rods and valve springs. May as well go all the way. Isn't there a special tool or some specific measurements and shimming that have to be done? I've never done any valve work except on lawn mowers etc.

 

This is the set I used. Been great so far!

 

Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I thought you were going to drop the donor engine in your 250 daily, and do the epic build on your ailing 250 engine...

 

As cool as that would be to see, I see no reason for him to swap in a good engine that may last a good long time, and then rush into spending 10 grand + on building a fresh engine.

 

This was $185 from a wire/cable shop in Tampa a couple years ago. I had a buddy take them a set of factory cables to replicate and had a couple sets made.

Looks like I need to put them on fleabay with 100% mark-up! Might finally be able to quit my real job!!!




I put your name on the box Tristan and will add it to the barter pile!!

 

[QUOTE=SkySkiJason;21164372]This was $185 from a wire/cable shop in Tampa a couple years ago. I had a buddy take them a set of factory cables to replicate and had a couple sets made.

Looks like I need to put them on fleabay with 100% mark-up! Might finally be able to quit my real job!!!




I put your name on the box Tristan and will add it to the barter pile!![/QUOTE

Awesome! I'm excited! Thanks!

 

Stage 1 CNC Fab valve springs and seals installed. Almost didn't need shims at all. I think I ended up using shims on 2-3 springs the second go around.... Yeah so I didn't know if the 1.800 spring height was supposed to be with or without the seal. Couldn't find much information on it and I finally found a website that talked about it and said to just set it to 1.800 and don't worry about the seal height which of course was the wrong advice for the springs I bought which were different than his in the post. Thankfully Eric corrected me after I shimmed all of the springs to 1.800 and then I had to start all over and redo all of them at 1.840;to account for the .040 seal. See, I would have done that to begin with but I didn't know how thick the seal was and have no way of measuring and I couldn't find any info on seal thickness so I just winged it on a hunch and a post online and had to start over in the end.

I also got some smith Brothers push rods in today.

I also got the hpop out of the new engine and filled my freshly painted valley with oil at least I used oil based rustoleum paint

Also, I got the PCM pulled from the parts truck and it's not the right one for my truck. PCM code APX1. How much are they worth?

Also, what should I do with the 6 position tuner? Throw it away?

Parts truck has a immaculate headliner, that's going in my truck. I thought about swapping his brand new f350 springs onto my truck and maybe even his Limited slip rear diff to make my truck a true factory 4WD. Although the axle is a little rusty so I worry about it a little. I'll post pics this weekend for thoughts on swapping it in. I have new rear bearing on my axle currently so I could swap that into the LSD and I also have newer brakes as well.

I wonder if I could add 1 or 2 springs from my f350 spring pack into his new springs and beef them up a tad. Although the timbrem springs are doing well, I feel the rear of the truck sags a tad more than I thought it should. Maybe I should think more about air bags. I would have to have on board air as different as my trips are all the time. Unloaded, slightly loaded, slap loaded, overloaded, sometimes all of the above in one day. Having to air bags up and down all the time would be very inconvenient. I wonder if a little battery powered air compressor from rigid would have enough *** in it to pump those bags up to 80-100 psi? It would probably do 60 no problem I would think. Or I could use one of my old AC compressors like FTN did!

 

I use a dewalt, and i know others use the color they favor. I think all the battery compressors will go over 100psi, my bags live between 30 and 60, most of the time. The 30 just makes the ride better, and keeps it from squatting when i move a bale of hay, etc. When i load it, then i raise the bags, until its riding as desired, which has (so far) never been close to 100psi. With all you do, i would strongly recommend keeping the bags seperate. 2 valves, not 1. That way they each carry load, and you dont risk shift.

 

I just bought a dewalt 60v battery air compressor and it will do 140 psi easily. Has like a 2 or 2.5 gallon tank on it. My airbags don't ever see more then 30-40 pounds towing my toy hauler.