I appreciate the lookout. I don't plan on it at all, but I thought it would be nice to get a feel for how it does being towed. For instance, my old pop up would sway and shake at anything above 70. I wanted to see how this one would do at a bit faster speeds.

More than likely, I'll go a nice, grandfatherly 60-65 with the occasional burst to 70 to pass a semi or particularly slow moving traffic. I can get better mileage and be safer that way.

 

Don't need it on a trailer that small, and they don't help with sway control either unless it is the 4 point sway control style which I never really liked anyway. Properly loading your trailer prevents sway, most other things are just a band aid solution.

 

With your truck I wouldn't use a WDH, but it you want one I would go with a different hitch with integrated sway control, like Blue Ox swaypro or equalizer 4 point

One thing I would do is get a tongue weight it it is at least 13% of trailer weight you should be fine. A very light TW can cause issues with any tow vehicle.

 

Wrong, most any WDH has sway control, doesn't matter if its 2 or 4 point. Obviously the 4 does a better job in most cases but the 2 point does a fine job as well. I use one with my current TT and can guarantee you without it you'll feel a lot more sway than with it.

 

While we are being pedantic, I think it's worth pointing out that one LIGHTER trucks where significant steer axle weight has been removed, a proper WDH absolutely does reduce sway by getting weight back on the front of the truck. Even if that hitch has not additional "sway control features".

Almost certainly not an issue with this combination, but worth keeping in mind. Correct loading and weight distribution is the first step to sway reduction.

 

No they don't, any kind that uses chains has no sway control, you have to add an additional swaybar for that.

 

You're correct on that statement, but you don't need a 4 pt to control sway, there are lots of options for 2 point. I own and use a 2 point WDH and it most definitely controls sway on my 38 ft camper. Below is a perfect example of a 2 point that controls sway.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...4-00-0800.html

• Integrated 2-Point Sway Control limits side-to-side movement
  • Brackets keep spring bars in place for a rigid system that holds trailer in line
  • Steel-on-steel friction helps to minimize sway caused by winds or sudden maneuvers
  • No lift chains - eliminate unwanted movement

I didn't consider the chain setup on my previous response as I figured most people used ones with built in sway control now but you do see a handful of chain WDH setup at campgrounds and you're right, if you want sway control you'll have to use the sway bar for that.

I don't know why anyone would go back to using a chain setup after using the ones with built in sway but I'm sure there are reasons.

 

The chain setup is easier to hook up and unhook and they last longer are a couple reasons. Once the 2 or 4 point styles get some wear on them you need a hammer to get them off, and eventually the contact points wear out and the components need replaced, you don't have those problems with the chain setup, they will last a long time.

 

My Reese straight line DC uses chains and has sway control.

picking nits.

 

It has sway control in addition to the chains. The chains are for the weight distribution and the cams are for the sway control.

 

not exactly. The chains hook to the cams. The cams apply the upward pressure on the bars to provide both load distribution and sway control.

as I said, I’m sorta picking nits, but it is a chain style WDH that doesn’t rely on an external friction style device.

 

Did someone say chain style? LOL.

 

I swear it's easier to start an argument in a sway control discussion than in gas vs diesel.

 

Once again that is your opinion. The bar setup is easier than the chains to hook up IMO. I've used my WDH for 4 years now, its easier to remove than my chain setup on my old camper and we're camping more than the average camper from March until Thanksgiving, however due to how the friction works I'm sure at some point the bracket connecting to the camper may need replaced (maybe after 8-10 years of use?). If you have to use a hammer to get your bars off something isn't adjusted correctly on your TT. Once you take the weight off the brackets on the frame of your camper you should be able to remove the bars by grabbing them and lightly pulling.

 

you aren’t wrong, but it’s the same with the snap up brackets on a typical chain set up.

I try to lift mine high enough that I can easily lift the snap up bracket over center by hand. And I have mine set TIGHT. I’m returning 100% of the front axle weight on 1200 lbs of tongue weight.

Neither are that hard to hook up if you do it right.