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I'm getting a 558 "Valve Regulator, solenoid circuit, fault" code and a 332 "Insufficient EGR flow detected" code. I can't seem to figure out how to fix the thing.
When the truck is warmed up the EGR valve is not moving with different throttle inputs.
Manually applying vacuum will move the EGR valve, though it does seem to want to stick closed
The EGR position sensor displays the correct range of resistance and changes as I manually apply vacuum to the EGR Valve
The EGR position sensor plug provides 12v to the sensor
When the vehicle is warm the EGR Solenoid Valve connector provides 12V when the throttle is applied
There is manifold vacuum at the EGR Solenoid Valve
When the engine is warm, the EGR Valve Solenoid does not apply vacuum to a vacuum gauge at idle or following throttle input.
Bypassing the EGR Valve Solenoid and applying manifold vacuum directly to the EGR did cause the valve to open completely. But when I removed the vacuum and allowed the valve to close it did not open again when I reapplied the vacuum.
I feel like the EGR Valve Solenoid is faulty since it does not apply vacuum when the vehicle is warm and it should. But is it likely I had a defective one, which was off a 320,000 mile engine, and then got two more defective ones from the part store? I also am thinking the EGR valve itself is malfunctioning.
Trying to not throw parts at this, but does anyone else have any suggestions? I can also take some videos if anyone wants to see anything
7) Normal operation. You are not supposed to have EGR flow at idle or while the truck is sitting still.
I assumed idle was no vacuum. Merely gave it as a condition to show the valve wasn’t stuck and constantly providing vacuum to a stuck EGR valve. But should it not provide vacuum when the engine is at operating temperature and throttle is applied?
The PCED is your friend
You will be guessing unless you run through a few of the pibpoint tests
So, you need to start with the pinpoint tests for those two codes
3 digit code chart for code 332 sends you to DN 40 or DN 110 if it was a continuous code
3 digit code chart for a 94 sends you to DN10 for the code 558
Here is some of that info
Usually replace the EVR and the PFE (if equipped) for those codes IIRR (use Ford parts)
Luckily the EGR pinpoint tests are easy. If you get through these and need more, I can post the rest
You are supposed to work on the lowest numerical code first, so I will post DN 40 first
I'll start working through that. On a separate note do you know if there is a digital copy of the manual you are taking photos of? Or is the only option to find a used hard copy on Ebay or Amazon?
E-Bay tends to have the CD version of the EVTM manuals. The hard part is getting them to load on a modern computer. They tend to only work on Windows XP and older Operating Systems. I use a VMWare Virtual Machine (VM) to launch all of my EVTMs (1992 to 2014).
I found some older manuals, PDF versions, from one of the frequent posters at Fullsize Bronco last year.
AllData online at your library free
Or pay for the AllData subscription service
Quite expensive, especially if you look up multiple vehicles
Hit the library and print all that stuff plus wiring diagrams free
There are printed copies of the PCED (huge books) for sale on Ebay
I've made progress. After following the steps on the pictures and logically following its train of thought, I determined the second EVR Solenoid was also bad. I picked a different brand up and before installing it I did a bench test. After applying vacuum to the new (3rd purchased) solenoid and applying 12v it passed the vacuum through to a gauge. As I continue to work the problem it appears the EGR valve does like to stick closed and will only open after vacuum is continuously applied for a little bit. From what I can tell it is the original 320,000 mile valve so probably time for a replacement anyway. I'll install it later this week and hopefully it will completely fix the problem. The EVP sensor does send the correct resistance readings to the multimeter as well, and once the valve is unstuck the check engine light goes off, so I believe the sensor is functional and doesn't need replacement.
In prep for the EGR valve replacement I soaked the nut going to the EGR pipe in penetrant and spend some time to get it broke loose. Other than cleaning the gasket left on the intake I'm hoping for a somewhat uncomplicated replacement.
I ended up getting a PCEM. To make sure I'm understanding this correctly I should work DTC 332 as a continuous code first and then 558 as a KOEO code? I thought I had previously read to wait until I get a 11 or 111 code before moving on from KOEO codes.
Below is the pictures from DL10 and DTC 558
Markings are the answers each of the steps and readings. I left volts off of DL12 but they were above 12V I'm getting an open loop reading for all four checks in DL14. Trying to make sure it isn't something I'm doing wrong before I start digging into the wiring harness Picture of how I installed the breakout box connectors. Wiring harness installed with PCM connector not installed.
Last edited by casey_kreilein; Feb 16, 2024 at 10:04 AM.
Reason: Forgot to add the pictures the first time I posted.
I'm beginning to wonder if the silicone vacuum lines I installed might make the vacuum build slower than the old plastic ones. During the KOER test the vacuum was beginning to build but fell once that part of the test completed. Also when I'm driving if I maintain throttle pressure for a long enough time while driving the MIL goes off. My theory is it is taking the vacuum longer to build than it should and therefore only having the light after I apply throttle from neutral until enough vacuum has built. On DN41 it reaches 30 in-Hg but it takes quite a long time. I didn't time it but I wouldn't be surprised if it was around 45-60 seconds. DN44: I don't have a tach but the engine did begin to run extremely rough when I disconnected the IAC solenoid and I applied vacuum to the EGR
I'm beginning to wonder if the silicone vacuum lines I installed might make the vacuum build slower than the old plastic ones. During the KOER test the vacuum was beginning to build but fell once that part of the test completed. Also when I'm driving if I maintain throttle pressure for a long enough time while driving the MIL goes off. My theory is it is taking the vacuum longer to build than it should and therefore only having the light after I apply throttle from neutral until enough vacuum has built. On DN41 it reaches 30 in-Hg but it takes quite a long time. I didn't time it but I wouldn't be surprised if it was around 45-60 seconds. DN44: I don't have a tach but the engine did begin to run extremely rough when I disconnected the IAC solenoid and I applied vacuum to the EGR
You’re better than I am. I can’t get past the OP writing in the book. I keep hoping that he edited the pictures from manicmechanic.
Oh lol. I didnt even look at the ford service data, I just saw he was wondering if the vacuum hose he used isnt strong enough, and i came back with my question. That is funny tho lol
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