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It looks like there is no more room to go forward even though the bellhousing has another 2 inches to go. The slave cylinder is touching the pressure plate as you can see. Did I install something incorrectly? The clutch and pressure plate should be correct, I did double check everything. The engine is slightly jacked up because the shield was interfering with one of the mounts. I am not sure how to proceed.
IF you have the correct flywheel, clutch & pressure plate, there is a good chance you are out of alignment.
It is a PITA to get the trans up there without bumping something causing it to twist.
Many years ago when I had my Ranger, I had to align it a few times with the tool to get everything to line up.
I still remember having to twist the trans a bit from underneath as I was pushing forward. Not much, just a little.
Also check the top of the bell housing to make sure a wire harness didn’t slip down between the block & bell.
Hmm. All the parts look correct, the clutch alignment tool goes in smoothly yet I'm still stuck. Is the slave cylinder supposed to be retracted somehow? I know it goes backwards and forwards, mine is fully forward.
TBH, it was many years ago when I had my 5sp out of my 88’ Ranger.
I don’t remember the slave being a problem.
I do remember the splines on the trans being a pain.
My issue was similar but the trans wouldn’t start going in since the splines were rotated just a few degrees to not line up.
That is why I had to twist the trans while inserting.
if yours is just a 1/2 inch out still, is it already contacting the “fingers” on the pressure plate with the bearing?
I believe it is just supposed to make contact if not be a hair away once it is fully seated in.
The slave has to be retracted, when I put my new trans, clutch and pressure plate in, I could push it almost to contact the engine, but couldn't hold it there and start a bolt. Had to fashion a ratchet strap to pull the trans forward, it helps to break open the slave bleeder valve to.
I hope you figured this out since it has been a few days.
I had a similar problem with mine. Unfortunately I found that mine didn't go together cleanly because the passenger side O2 sensor pigtail had dropped down between the engine and bell housing trapping the sensor inside the bell housing. I torqued all that down like I knew what I was doing and discovered the issue when I was reconnecting all the harness pigtails. One was missing. I had taken lots of photos and was able to see in the photos that the O2 sensor likely got pinched when I torqued it all down. That connector is about an inch wide so it would leave a big gap if it hangs up in there.
Sure enough, I took it all apart and found the O2 sensor dangling by a thread. I had to order a pigtail and install that before I could reassemble everything. It all worked out in the end and now I know that I need to secure all that out of the way before buttoning things up. Lots of sensors on these vehicles, unlike the older 40's-80's trucks I learned on back in the day.
Alright boys, the transmission is back in. I gave up on struggling with it by myself and recruited my brothers to help. Hours and hours I struggled with that thing, thinking the transmission jack would be helpful, all a waste. We got it in there inside of 10 minutes.
To anyone who reads this thread in the future, maybe you've got a transmission jack and you want to do it all by yourself, I would strongly advise you get a couple guys under there instead. The pressure required to push in the slave cylinder just makes it incredibly difficult to get everything lined up. Two guys could do it too but three made it easy. I was under the transmission, holding it up while they wobbled it in then put on the transmission cross mount and bolted it in. Thanks for the replies, I hope all your future mechanical work goes smoothly.
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