When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
im new to building hot rods ive always had a passion but havnt been able to get started. i love early fords and chevys. i love them both. im finally on my way looking at trucks and i come across this 1963 chevy c10. i see hes notched the frame but it doesnt look like great work. im new here so im learning whats good and whats not. so correct me on any terminology mistakes as well. ive seen a guy on youtbe called bode vision install a for link suspension system and he made similar notches on the chassis and the rear axel sat right on top of it. does this look ready for bags? what im asking is does this look like what good work would look like.
X2
It is a long arm rear, NASCAR uses the same rear set up BUT ............
The are no top control arms, see the rubber bushings? So the axle will rotate changing the pinion angle NOT GOOD!
Then look at the panhard bar. It should be parallel to the axle not running to the rear like it dose.
I would say unless they are giving you money to take the truck away dont walk but run away from that one.
Look into pre 80 ford trucks, dont worry about the drive train / suspension.
Then search on here and Youtube for CV (crown vic) frame swap.
There are a few different ways to go just the front suspension onto the Ford frame and lower the rear need to C notch better than that c10.
Can use the full CV frame and suspension and mount the truck body onto the CV frame.
The last if you find the truck needs the floor replaced use the full frame & suspension and the floor and firewall from the CV in to the cab of the truck.
Using the floor and firewall you get the CV AC if the truck dose not have AC.
The CV is the way I would go with a Ford truck and it will be lowered, ride good and handle to boot.
Dave ----
Dave thanks so much for the reply and the advice. for someone as new as me its invaluable and exciting to get feedback! "unless they giving you money to take the truck, dont walk but RUN away from that one" haha had me dying. i see that bushing what a trip i didnt notice that. and the panhard bar i thoht looked wierd too.but im looking at pictures and i see some at an angle like that. do you have an example of a proper one?
what year CV should i be looking for?
with the CV swap yo said its gonna naturally sit lower? will i need to get it to bare bones and clean up the chassis and powder coat/paint it?
thanks again for the advice brother cheers!
yeah thats what my gut was telling me. especially how he didnt clean the chassis at all. but yeah the pic speaks for itself. thanks for the reply brother
Most use the 2003 and up. Most of the PI’s were fleet vehicles and were rode hard with high idle times. Look for a lower mileage civilian CV or a Grand Marquis. No sense swapping over to worn out parts. Lots of work, but the results can be impressive.
There are multiple companies that produce quality pre-cut C notch and lowering kits for the various brands of full size pickups, handy for those of us that don't have the metal fabrication tools needed for cutting 1/4" steel. IIRC early Chevy/GMC C-10 pickups used a lower bar only hard mounted to the axle housing and a centering track bar. Dunno what that rear end is from since it has the upper arm mounting points. FuzzFace is spot on with all the... deficiencies (trying to be polite to who ever did this work) in this rear end swap & C-notch attempt. But yeah, only way I would buy that truck would be if it came with an unmolested replacement frame, since unless you're going for an extreme lowrider drop, you don't have to C-notch that particular frame.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
