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Anything other than the up pipe leaking that would cause that dry looking soot?
im frowning for sure. Got under the truck, checking a wire....and noticed this.... is my 2 year old up pipe leaking? If so.... what would my fix options be? If there are any, besides another replacement....
Are we talking about the dark area there in the block next to the block heater? If so I'd try running a mirror or inspection camera up there to make sure it's not the manifold leaking or doesn't have a hole in it.
Most likely #8 port letting caca out, hopefully your lucky and the bolt on the manifold didn't break, even then if all fails to remove the broken bolt from the head CPaddict sells a bracket to clamp down that part of the manifold. IMO throw in some exhaust manifold gaskets give it a few heat cycles and re-torque them to spec and that should last for a long time.
Drivers manifold to up Rear drivers manifold. ?#8
So, is the dark area on the manifold going to be my soot source? Meaning r&r, or at least put a gasket in?
Is this an optical illusion of a crack? also if you do exhaust manifold gaskets, be careful not to snap a bolt. I was able to successfully get mine out with a lot of PB blaster and a mapp gas type torch as well as a careful technique.
Yeah looks like that #8 is leaking. There's a fair chance the manifold seal surface is pitted. It might seal with a gasket it might be back to haunt you in 6 months. As cheap as they've gotten unless you can let the truck set while you wait on parts I'd probably order manifolds and all.
Is this an optical illusion of a crack? also if you do exhaust manifold gaskets, be careful not to snap a bolt. I was able to successfully get mine out with a lot of PB blaster and a mapp gas type torch as well as a careful technique.
Ok. So the question is, if i buy a new manifold, do i also buy a gasket? New bolts are a given. Lock tite? Am i going to need to do anything to get the up pipe to seal on the new manifold?
A lot of the manifolds come as a kit with the gaskets and some times the bolts. The bolt sets are over priced in my opinion so I sourced some grade 12.9 socket head cap screws from Amazon when I did gaskets on mine. The manifold to up pipe is a compression fit so no gasket and high temp anti seize on the bolts. I'm not aware of any thread locker that would survive the heat anyway. I'm sure there is one but we probably wouldn't want to see the sticker on that.
I was lookong at @Riffraff Diesel online, and it appears they sell each thing seperately, manifold, bilts, and gasket.... so i wasnt sure if a gasket is called for, or was just a repair option.
They didn't come with one from the factory but I I don't think I've heard of anyone not using one during a repair. Also as far as manifolds go unless you're set on Motorcraft the exhaust manifolds are something you get by with a knockoff. Lots of guys have used no name Amazon and eBay stuff without issue, so pretty safe bet at this point.
Oem manifolds are much superior to the cheap quality aftermarkets, the Motorcraft gaskets work well, you can get away without them if you have clean smooth mating surface on the heads, and if you make sure to deck the new heads to verify they are true. I generally just use the gaskets.
Ok. This is one of the fun parts isnt it? With an E99, for the drivers side, i need the 94-97 manifold, since right/passenger runs from 94 to 03, but theres a 99.5 split for the left/driver. Or was there a super special short run of something for just that year? And, i suppose it bears asking... could i just change to 99.5 manifold, and change the up pipe, too, without having to change anything else? Id rather not, since my bellowed are only 2 years old, but i might be able to buy all of it for the 99.5, for the cost of just the left manifold, e99...
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