Hey all,

I bought myself a New Vintage USA 6 gauge instrument cluster for my '77 F100 Custom Explorer. I've started wiring up the new bezel and was wondering if anyone has a quick readout on each pin of the 18pin connector. I have a Haynes manual and purchased a wiring diagram but I want to make sure I tie into the factory connector correctly. It is somewhat "plug and play" but there are some places I'd need to splice into the connector.

I do have AC and all gauges, no idiot lights. I have searched through the forum and haven't found anything for a '77 with all gauges so forgive me if I'm missing a post somewhere. Any help is appreciated.

 

 

redroad, thank you. You, my friend, are genius. I appreciate it so much! Will update when installed.

 

What year is that for redroad?

 

Funny you should ask I got it from my buddy Rich's archives, the catcombs of FTE, right here. Where things are not labeled sometimes, except for the contributions from redroad, aka " John. "Scouts Out!"

 

This should cover the year 1977.

 

Thanks. Funny that I could not FIND it in my own catacombs. If it is not labeled, than I did not have that info to add.

 

For the catacombs

 

I got everything wired up and no dash lights. I checked my wiring and it's correct. I traced the blue/red wire at the 18pin harness and no power switched or otherwise, no power at the light switch itself and no power at the fuse. I have replaced that fuse and no change. All other terminals on the fuse block have power in and out. Any ideas? Possible loose connection on the back of the fuse box?

 

No, not if there’s no power at the light switch.
That fuse is the only circuit in the fuse panel that does not get power either from the key or directly from the battery. It gets its power only when the light switch is turned to the first or second position.
If you have no power going into the light switch, then nothing can come out. So trace that lack of power first to see what’s up.

 

Out of curiosity I replaced the light switch again. Now there is power getting to the fuse but not power leaving so I have to change out the fuse again. I must have blown it and arced when replacing the light switch.

 

Do you know how to test for continuity ? If so test all grounds to ground to verify you have ground. The instrument cluster picks up it's ground close to where it mounts in the dash. The fuse box gets its' ground from the cab and then cab to frame right there at the driver's side front cab corner. Verify the Blue with red stripe has continuity also and any other suspect circuit.

 

thank you. Yes, I know how to check for continuity but was unaware of all ground locations. I’ll grab my multimeter and check it out

 

Fuse boxes are not grounded directly on these older vehicles that I've ever seen. Maybe somewhere, but not on anything I've got.
No need, since fuse panels/boxes are simple pass-through protective devices especially on our older rigs. Nothing fancy, with not even a relay of note.
Any grounding nearby is probably a good idea for noise reduction/protection, but not for the direct function of any of the circuits it's protecting.
After all, any direct grounding of a powered circuit is, quite literally, a short-circuit.

Speaking of which, if this truck has seen better days under the dash, you might just want to do a few things to the fuse panel (with the battery disconnected of course) to "renew" it so to speak.
Pull the fuses at the very least, and clean them and their contacts in the box. If you have not done so already. Over time an oxidizing buildup creates resistance.
Remove the fuse panel itself. Usually two or three screws. Carefully flip it over, being careful not to yank too hard on any of the bundled wires, and clean it out if needed.
A toothbrush works great on a simply dirty/dusty one, but a metal/brass/stainless brush of some strength might be required if there is any more durable debris married to the components.

This inspection process also lets you see if any of the wires or solder joints or contacts are compromised to the point that they may contribute to gremlinish behavior, or fail in the not too distant future.


Paul

 

[QUOTE=1TonBasecamp;21109949]Fuse boxes are not grounded directly on these older vehicles that I've ever seen. Maybe somewhere, but not on anything I've got.
No need, since fuse panels/boxes are simple pass-through protective devices especially on our older rigs. Nothing fancy, with not even a relay of note.
Any grounding nearby is probably a good idea for noise reduction/protection, but not for the direct function of any of the circuits it's protecting.
After all, any direct grounding of a powered circuit is, quite literally, a short-circuit.

Speaking of which, if this truck has seen better days under the dash, you might just want to do a few things to the fuse panel (with the battery disconnected of course) to "renew" it so to speak.
Pull the fuses at the very least, and clean them and their contacts in the box. If you have not done so already. Over time an oxidizing buildup creates resistance.
Remove the fuse panel itself. Usually two or three screws. Carefully flip it over, being careful not to yank too hard on any of the bundled wires, and clean it out if needed.
A toothbrush works great on a simply dirty/dusty one, but a metal/brass/stainless brush of some strength might be required if there is any more durable debris married to the components.

This inspection process also lets you see if any of the wires or solder joints or contacts are compromised to the point that they may contribute to gremlinish behavior, or fail in the not too distant future.


Paul[/

Behind the dash is intact and most everything remained untouched. Harness has never been spliced into. The dash lights did work until I replaced the light switch. (Reason I believe I blew the fuse and damaged the replacement switch) Now that I replaced the switch again the power shows back up at the fuse terminal. But, fuse is blown.

I had cleaned all visible grounds behind the dash and previously checked on the back of the fuse panel. Can do so again if replacing the fuse doesn’t work.

Thank you for the info!