Another one down, now it’ll hold power steering fluid for more than a few days, got a Motorcraft rebuilt pump and a new return line on. I changed the pressure hose a couple of months back.


Going to take care of this next, I’m still kind of on the fence about fix or delete.

 

Delete with impunity.

 

lol. That’s what I’m leaning toward. There’s an exhaust leak back there somewhere, so going to up pipes and delete.
I’m not looking forward to doing it though, every time I look at it I see busted knuckles and unsavory language. It would probably be easier if I were 20 years younger and 50lbs lighter.

 

At least the delete ped is one of the cheaper mods. Riff Raff even sells a plugin that will prevent you from throwing a code.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ebp-p...pigtail-94-97/

 

Use a series of 1/4” extensions and 3/8” extensions with a 15mm wobble socket, 10mm wobble socket, 1/4-3/8 swivel sockets and 3/8-1/4 adapters small10mm wrench and 8mm wrench to remove the turbo, pedestal bolts and up pipes. I sourced some of the extensions at HF with a few broken, lifetime warranty so no biggie.

Spray down all bolts and downpipe clamp with PB blaster or acetone/tranny fluid mix for two days twice a day before starting project. Really helps remove the crusty bolts. Also plan on just taking the downpipe off at the back to give wiggle room for pass side up pipe. Yours looks 3” so this should be easy.


I just went through this, my ebpv rod was suddenly leaking oil at 1quart per hundred miles. A topside creeper was essential for me to make this job easy, and that was absolutely an important tool for this job. Made it MUCH easier, do yourself a favor and use one if possible.

I did an e99 delete pedestal with a hybrid “Frankenstein” turbo from Riff Raff. This comes with deleted butterfly valve. Also did RR bellowed up pipes and put in new collector. Very happy with this setup after 300 miles. Also with the e99 pedestal and turbo it installs very easy. I also live in snow country and no difference in not having the ebpv. I plug in every morning though.

Its really not that bad of a job if you have all the right tools

 

Concur on "spray everything" "top creeper". When I pulled my pedestal, and the back driver side bolt was a... difficult cuss. That one is worth a high-quality 1/4 drive swivel socket. I think it's an 8mm, but may be wrong. My "stack" was 1/4 drive swivel socket, 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, 3/8 extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 1/2 x 24 breaker bar, and 3' of pipe. Use the 3/8 extension to seat the socket on the nut by feel. Extension should be tall enough so head of breaker bar can be put against a block against the firewall for torque reaction. Carefully increase force on the breaker bar... want to free the little bolt, not break it or the tiny socket that's on it. Pipe gives you leverage to carefully build up torque without gorilla-heaving on a breaker bar.

I haven't done up-pipes yet, but they likely are in my future.

I tapped and plugged my stock pedestal, removed butterfly and welded the hinge pin holes. Getting that one pedestal bolt out was the major part of the operation.

 

I’m in the process of deleting the EBPV and new up pipes, I’ve been working off and on for three days on eight bolts, got the four exhaust manifold to up pipe bolts, got one out of the upper flange on the driver side, gave up on the other one hoping when I get the turbo out I can move the up pipe and collector around and get a good hold on it.
Got the upper turbo to collector bolts out and got the nut off the lower driver side, the lower passenger side is going to require another trip to the tool store.

 

I’m not real sure how everyone gets a socket on those stud nuts on the pedestal, I tried but it wasn’t happening. Luckily I was able to get on them with a 15mm wrench and get um loose

 

removing the trans doesnt take long and gives so much more room when doing uppies

 

If it was a two wheel drive I probably would, that transfer case is too awkward and heavy to make it worth it to me.
I got the other nut off this afternoon with a new swivel socket an old cheap ratchet and a cheater pipe. The new socket that I didn’t break is an Evercraft brand from NAPA if anybody is needing a tough one.
If I get home early enough tomorrow I’ll finish getting the turbo out. Getting into the busy season here and time is a precious commodity. I hope to get that finished over the next few days. Most of the rest of things that need doing aren’t big jobs, just a lot of them.

 

Old and busted-


new hotness-

Getting that out is NOT an easy job.
It’ll be a miracle if I get it all back in with no oil or exhaust leaks and not breaking something else.
It does kind of appear that with the delete it’ll be easier getting the back pedestal bolts started, I have no idea how I’m going to get those up pipes back in there, unsavory language didn’t help getting them out so it probably won’t help going back in.

 

100 dollar harbor freight trans jack made it a breeze.
Had it out in a few hours with just hand tools

 

You installing a new turbinator or is this just practice?

I hate even the idea of having to pull my up pipes again for any reason.

 

Ain’t no way someone is going to get that bolt out or back in from underneath. I got the original out and the new hex bolt in from the top after the turbo was out. I used a short allen wrench on the inside one.


You can see how the transmission flange is in the way and I picked up on it and put a 3/8 drive allen head adapter under it.


This o-ring came with the kit, anybody know where it’s supposed to go? The only other o-ring I took out that size is the one on the turbo outlet.

 

Looks like turbo outlet to plenum to me.