6R140 issues
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 3
6R140 issues
From what started as a mild warble/hum turned into what I believe is a TQ converter failure.
Intermittent wonky idle when warm,
shifts almost too smooth, but can still feel lock up.
Lots of viabration, now this afternoon really started to show an issue.
At this time she hardly wants to move gears.
Pulled pan, fluid looked decent with 0 metal on magnet, just a very mild amount of clutch material.
Also, i checked pressure solenoid PID and it was
0.0A. (I have herd this can be a cause)
Any similar issues?
2017 DRW
196k mi
Ecm/Tcm tuning
Shift valve body replaced at 180k
Intermittent wonky idle when warm,
shifts almost too smooth, but can still feel lock up.
Lots of viabration, now this afternoon really started to show an issue.
At this time she hardly wants to move gears.
Pulled pan, fluid looked decent with 0 metal on magnet, just a very mild amount of clutch material.
Also, i checked pressure solenoid PID and it was
0.0A. (I have herd this can be a cause)
Any similar issues?
2017 DRW
196k mi
Ecm/Tcm tuning
Shift valve body replaced at 180k
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 3
this filter has less then 10k on it
thinking about pulling it and cutting it open
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
Stupid question here, but I gotta' ask... when the new filters were installed, was it verified that the old O-ring came out each time and then the new O-ring was installed?
I'm guessing you're probably on the right track with the torque converter, especially since you mentioned vibration. But it never hurts to check the simple stuff first.
If a guy has to dig in there deep enough to change the torque converter, might be a good time to go ahead and do seals at the back of the motor while in there. Address any potential oil leaks. Ya' know?
I'm guessing you're probably on the right track with the torque converter, especially since you mentioned vibration. But it never hurts to check the simple stuff first.
If a guy has to dig in there deep enough to change the torque converter, might be a good time to go ahead and do seals at the back of the motor while in there. Address any potential oil leaks. Ya' know?
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 3
Stupid question here, but I gotta' ask... when the new filters were installed, was it verified that the old O-ring came out each time and then the new O-ring was installed?
I'm guessing you're probably on the right track with the torque converter, especially since you mentioned vibration. But it never hurts to check the simple stuff first.
If a guy has to dig in there deep enough to change the torque converter, might be a good time to go ahead and do seals at the back of the motor while in there. Address any potential oil leaks. Ya' know?
I'm guessing you're probably on the right track with the torque converter, especially since you mentioned vibration. But it never hurts to check the simple stuff first.
If a guy has to dig in there deep enough to change the torque converter, might be a good time to go ahead and do seals at the back of the motor while in there. Address any potential oil leaks. Ya' know?
No, that's a completely reasonable question,
I have certainly seen goofier things happen.
Haven't pulled that filter yet, but I am 100% positive no orings were left behind, as this was the first filter installed on the new valve body.
But yeah, you got it with addressing existing oil leaks. Upper oil pan has been leaking for a while now and I'm sick of always having to worry about oil level, and mostly the wife hollering about the driveway 😅
Anyhow, I'm on the fence about tackling this mess:
-1: Pull trans and install
(new converter & aftermarket rebuild kit myself)
-2: Pull trans and take it to a "professional" to rebuild (not many "professionals" in my area. I'm aware of without costing an arm and a leg.)
-3: Get ready to drop some dough on a whole new system.
(Install myself)
Recommendations on aftermarket systems / rebuild kits?
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