When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Greetings,
1966 F-250 Camper Special, 352fe, 2wd, New Process 435 manual trans on the floor, OEM manual steering box, OEM starter motor. All original where it counts. Who out there makes mid length or shorty headers that are a direct fit that don't require notching the frame rails? I'm willing to get a smaller starter if i need to. My original cast iron units are cracked in several places. I know I'll have to bend now pipe for the exhaust. Thanks for you help gang!
Fred
Ashland, Oregon
I’ve looked into them and have heard from others Sanderson’s are the way to go. So thank you.
Would you happen to know if the cast iron exhaust manifolds are bolted to the head or do they use a stud and nut ?
I had hedman long tubes (Part #89810) on my '65 with 352 and NP435. They fit without notching the frame but you have to raise the engine to get them in and remove the starter. If you have to change the starter down the road, you have to unbolt the header from the head. So I'd try the sanderson shorties that were mentioned if I had it to do over.
If you're handy with a welder, it's a nice time to to insert an oxygen sensor bung. Only need one to monitor your air:fuel incase you want to tinker with carb settings to optimize steady cruise, heavy throttle, etc.
Mummert's Ramhorns are for 292/312 type Y-blocks. The 1965-1966 V8 was the 352 FE so they won't bolt up to that engine. Kugel makes these which I think may clear the frame since his casting removed the bulges on the outer downward leg of each.
I must be missing something..... I went to the Summit link above, and clicked on the 'Check Fitment' tab.
It lists a bunch of '60/'70s cars, but I didn't see where it listed any '66 F250....??
BarnieTrk
I installed Sanderson shorty headers on my 390 (actually 405) in my 1966 F100 when I had it installed. It fit without needing to notch the frame. It did require a smaller starter though. I purchased a heat blanket to put around it to protect it from the heat of the header. Not sure if 100% necessary, but it wasn't that much. You lose some HP with the shorter headers compared to the long tube headers, but I didn't build a race truck, so didn't matter.
I had hedman long tubes (Part #89810) on my '65 with 352 and NP435. They fit without notching the frame but you have to raise the engine to get them in and remove the starter. If you have to change the starter down the road, you have to unbolt the header from the head. So I'd try the sanderson shorties that were mentioned if I had it to do over.
I installed the same Hedman long tubes on my 1966 F250 Camper Special with 352FE today. I can not confirm the engine needs to be lifted. I also installed the passenger side header from the top, not as Hedman writes in the manual from underneath the truck. But the starter has to go out and must be installed together with the headers. A bit of a pain, but doable, even alone. I can recommend the header X-tension 18700. It moves the exhaust pipes nicely over the transmission crossmember.
And yes, weld in an O2 bunge. If you don't need it know, plug it.
Sanderson confirmed FF 391 P is the header to get. Keep in mind they are steel and not stainless so powder coating is a must. They sell them in silver and black powder coating and swear by their quality of coating. So talk to Sanderson and then order from Summit. I’m not building a race truck either I just need to replace the cracked original cast iron units.
OP, if you haven't ever removed those type of manifolds, the upper bolt ends (8) are exposed to the elements going through the head castings.
If they haven't been out for numerous years, they rust and corrode badly. Removing can twist the bolt off in the head, or.........break the casting ear off of the head. Either will require removing the head for the easier fix. Fixing under the hood may/may not be doable.
So, I suggest numerous doses of penetrating oil numerous times and wire brush and let them soak.
And, if they still feel like they may twist off, I've added heat (hot wrench) to the head casting. Warm red hot then let cool. Soak and try to remove again.
Sanderson confirmed FF 391 P is the header to get. Keep in mind they are steel and not stainless so powder coating is a must. They sell them in silver and black powder coating and swear by their quality of coating. So talk to Sanderson and then order from Summit. I’m not building a race truck either I just need to replace the cracked original cast iron units.
Hey 78 short bed. Thanks for the advice on those crusty manifold bolts. I totally agree with your assessment. This type of thing keeps me up at night. Easy does it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.