New to the group and not sure what to do with my truck? I have a 01 that I have owned since 02. It has 357000 miles on it. At 301600 miles had BTS do the transmission, 6.0 cooler,solenoid pack,8 split shots,1.0 housing with wicked wheel, aFe air intake, 3-5” exhaust. Brian made me a TS 6 position chip. 1stock, 2 high idle, 3-40hp tow. 4-60hp tow, 5-80 hp tow, 6 -100hp tow. At 311500 miles high volume oil pump,325971miles cam sensor,at 326527 miles replaced 3,8 injectors. 333559 miles new icm and fitting. Had hard fault code P1280 is a HPOP code. At 353,608 miles notice some haze when starting. The 1/4 inch line that runs to the turbo was completely plugged. Not sure what you call it? Ran a contribution test and 3,8 did not pass. No codes for either one or code for IDM. Tested IDM circuit was in spec. Used a test IDM same 2 contribution codes for 3-8 injectors. Tested fuel pressure at idle was 60-67 psi but when driving drops down to 43 psi. Replaced the fuel filter but still dropped below spec. Installed blue spring in regulator. Now pressure is 68 does not drop below 60 psi. Truck should idle around 750-800 but only idles around 650. Retested contribution and ECM codes. Contribution for no.8 is not unusual and no. 3 only shows up under running contribution for a circuit issue. All wiring to the injectors is in perfect spec. All injectors cut and operate as they should. IDM tests good. Sorry for the long explanation. Anyway pulling the motor to replace the oil pan. As long as it’s out thought why not upgrade some parts. Now I live in Wisconsin elevation 800’. Basically a daily driver, I use it as a truck pull my boat 5000# maybe 6x a year 3 hr distance. Pull tandem axle dump trailer for firewood several times a year. Only about 30 miles. Use the truck for whatever I need to do. Was looking at new single shots 160/30 or 160/0 with the turbo I have or going to KC300x with the.84 housing. Planning on doing the nonEBPV pedestal and Garret exhaust flange. Diesel lite over boost valve.CNC high flow 4 line feed with fuel bowl delete. CNC HPOP and HPX line kit. Then I saw the article about HEUI injectors and Bitteroot diesel talking about 238/80 hybrids and thought why not? I could have the chip detuned until I can afford to upgrade the fuel system etc. I’m 60 years old but still have some kid in me. Am I being silly and should just go with the 160/30 or 160/0 spend the extra on upgrading the fuel system now with the trouble I had with pressure? Also as long as it is apart should a person replace the LPOP has 357,000 on it.

 

That’s a lot of information!

A few quick items.
1- I would change to the .84 housing no matter what else you decide for parts.
2- your TS chip will need sent off for new tunes if you go to single shots or hybrids. Do some research first to see where you might want to ship it.
3- if your “wicked wheel” is the original design, I would consider installing a newer billet wheel or a KC Balanced Assembly.
4- most people recommend against the HPX crossover now as it adds potential leak points.

Maybe give CNC Fab a call to discuss options. They’re pretty willing to go over it all and get you a good combination of parts to suit your specific needs.

 

So how does the truck run currently? You mention failed CC tests which really isn't uncommon, especially on 8 and 3 can be a repeat offender as well. The 650 rpm idle speed is correct unless you've had someone program it otherwise. Everyone I've ever messed with has idled between 640 and 680 so nothing wrong there. Has the Hutch mod ever been done on your rig? I'm a little suspicious on that from your fuel pressure problems. It shouldn't take a blue spring to keep cruising pressure above 60#.

 

Truck runs fine. No idea what the hutch mod is? I am pretty new to this game. Just wanted to do some upgrades while the motor is out for the oil pan.

 

The hutch mod fixes in tank fuel pick up foot that notoriously falls off from age and rot. Actually it address all the leak points between the tank and pump, plus adding an inline fuel filter/screen.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921

Copied the link to make it easy on you to find.

Lots of great information in the tech folder.

 

I thought a bad cps or the cheap autozone ones can cause you to have inj 8 and 3 problems? I can't remember for sure but i remember a few of those cps making injectors fail and it was same ones everytime.

 

Thank you for your help. How do you private message someone?

 

A few things.

Stop worrying about contribution codes - they ARE NOT injector tests and should not be used as such. Do you have a misfire? If not, then throwing injectors at it won't do anything for you. The contribution test can help diagnose injector issues once any mechanical shortcomings are ruled-out. Low compression and valvetrain issues cannot be fixed with injectors. #8 fails 60% of the time, every time, and #3 is usually right there with it in most 7.3s. Ignore those two UNLESS there's an actual misfire and mechanical diagnosis/injector swapping proves otherwise.

Secondly, if you want reliability and driveability, stay stock on everything - including injectors. But start with a compression test and leakdown test first.....again, injectors won't fix mechanical issues. A leakdown test will almost certainly find a few leaking intake valves at 350K+ miles. It's not the end of the world, but the intake valves wear out BAD in these engines, especially if the stock airbox is used for any amount of time or it's been run in really dusty conditions with a cotton gauze type filter.

Like mentioned before, stay away from oil crossover pipes/hoses.

 

I'm still trying to figure out what the 1/4" line that runs to the turbo that was completely blocked is talking about


Only 1/4" line I can think of is the oil feed line on a T4 system, but he talked about it having a wicked wheel, that's a OEM GTP38 turbo, not T4

 

Wes, I assumed he was talking about the red wastegate control hose.

 

You need to have enough posts to send a PM. I believe the count is 8 IIRC. It’s an anti spam thing.

 

I think I made a mistake. I didn’t work on it but he talked about the turbo not getting a reading. So I assumed it was going to the turbo. He said it was on the front right side of the motor. I think he was talking about the exhaust back pressure sensor line? Will contact him tomorrow to confirm. I know just enough about this stuff to get myself in trouble. So please bare with me.

 

Also just went and checked the truck looks more like 3/8 line.

 

Right front should be the exhaust back pressure sensor. Line goes from the front of the RH exhaust manifold to a bracket with sensor on the front of the engine.
That line is known for plugging up at times.