Hey All, Im super new to the world of carbureted american vehicles and the bullnose will likely be my first! I found this vehicle (1986 F-250 4x4, 460 v8 automatic with roughly 182K miles on it) about 300 miles away from me. Owner said it had said for a few months but drove ~30miles or so in the last few days with no issues. I dont have any photos of of the interior yet and am waiting for those but in the meantime, what should I ask the owner before making the long drive out? I plan to drive this truck all the way home 300 miles.

What do I need to find out about the vehicle while im looking at it in person?

Some things I have in mind:
- Check 4x4 locking hubs to make sure the 4x4 works
- Check radiator for radiator fluid
- Check engine temp to make sure its good
- Check engine oil and sniff for fuel smells
- Check oil pressure
- Check for rust
- Check for rodent nests

Any help or advice is much appreciated!

 

beautiful truck.
if you wanna take on the task of driving a new to yoh old *** truck that far w out knowing it's reliability, make sure you have logistically planned for it to not make it home.

secondly, make sure radiator flui looks used, but not mixed w oil. i'd ask the owner to not change the fluids. if it's brand spanking new i'd be worried he was hiding somethhbt.

same for oil, check for milky-ness. like it was mixing w radiator fluid. smell it make sure it doesn't smell like gasoline.

id check the transmission fluid and like the others, make sure it's of the correct amount and not burnt up.

id make sure the electrical works, lights horns signals brakes, yadda yadda. i'd check wheel bearings for the ride, either while test driving or prybar method. def check brake master cylinder for fluid. look at the inside of the wheels and make sure no brake fluid is leaking and no axle seals are shot.

id test drive it and check all the dash functions , make sure turning on blower motor doesn't blow other fuses , yadda yadda

is def check 4wd and associated joints and drive shaft and u joints.

id also, if it has adjustable steering wheel, while test driving it i'd adjust it, make sure there are no shorts in there that may unexpectedly shut sone **** down on a long road trip unexpectedly.

 

Thanks for all the great info! A backup plan is if I can make the first 100miles, I can have AAA just tow it all the way home for me. Lots to check! I appreciate you!

 

If you go to test drive the truck and both of the tanks are full of fuel that isn't a sign that the seller is a "good ol' boy" and being nice. That indicates that the fuel tank vents are worn and need service. Our Bullnose trucks often have damaged fuel vents which prevent the fuel tanks from filling at full speed (the fuel pump will click off). The fuel gauges are also know to read poorly.

When you test drive the truck switch the fuel tank or at least ask if there is fuel in both tanks.

 

hey thanks for the response, how will I know if something is actually wrong? How do I know if the tanks are switching properly?

 

If it runs out of gas after switching the tanks...that's a problem. That switch has had a lot of talk here lately. Seems they can be and are a issue with these old trucks.

 

for sure something i'd wanna know before taking off and filling each tank . if only one tank works keep it in mind and just make another fuel stop

 

What is going to be your escort vehicle? Is it large enough to pull that truck off the road if it quits with a strap? I don't want to be your mommy, but I am assuming you are going to get temp insurance on it for the trip? And tags? You may be able to sneak it without, but if it quits along the road it's going to be harder to be sneaky.

 

Maybe check the date stamp on the tires, don't want to have a 9 year old tire fail on the highway.

A few threads down the page there is a current thread about the fuel switching valve on this year truck.

 

i wouldn't even mess w the fuel valve. if the op wants the truck and both tanks don't work, but one does, that's all he needs. def good info to have so you don't switch and get it stuck, but i wouldn't be switching tanks on a new old truck on ids maiden voyage that far out. if one tank works, thats what we are rolling with. after it's gone safe then you can start tinkering

 

There is no quick conclusive method to know. If you switch tanks and the engine stumbles/quits within a few minutes, that’s obviously a problem. But otherwise, you just have to keep an eye on things as you drive.

Two things happen when you flip the little lever from one tank to the other:

1) The fuel gauge displays the quantity in the selected tank.

2) The valve draws fuel from the selected tank.

It’s possible for the indication to act up while the valve operates properly, or visa versa. To test the system, fill both tanks and make sure the gauge indicates full for both tanks. Then run on one tank, making sure the engine runs normally and the gauge slowly drops as fuel is consumed. Repeat with the other tank.

Unfortunately, this is nothing you can test completely on a prepurchase test drive. It is more of something you monitor on a continuous basis while going about your daily business.

Watch out if the seller says “The (insert name of tank) isn’t working so I just use the (insert name of other tank).” This isn’t the end of the world, but will require some troubleshooting to determine the root cause. Could be a bad valve, bad fuel line sucking air, clogged pickup in the tank, etc.

 

On the tanks, I'd assume that the fuel may be old. The tanks may be rusty. Especially one that's been sitting. My advice would be to not switch tanks from the one the owner has been running on. Fill that one tank and run on that one only. Later, when safely home, you can dig in further. You'll want to refuel that tank every 100 miles. You can check your mpgs. If you really want this truck and want to drive it home that'd be my advice. The owner might not even know the condition of the tanks and valves. If he assures you it's fresh gas and both tanks and the switch is good, I might trust him???

 

One other caution on the twin tanks...when the valve malfunctions it's possible for one tank to start transferring fuel to the other. If they are both full when that happens it can cause overflow. If this truck has a fuel return line that where trouble can start. Depends on fuel pump and valve type.

 

good advice. Also figure about 8 mpg, so max range of 100 miles on a single tank is about right. Also look and smell for fuel leaks around the carb. A little seepage around the accelerator pump diaphragm housing on the bottom of the front float bowl is pretty typical but if it’s actively dripping, 300 miles could be a gamble.

 

Dave I found out here in NC you dont need plates, I guess many be need insurance? If you just bought it and need to get it home or a garage to get repairs before getting a plate.

When I went to get what I thought would be a temp (paper) plate for the pick up so I could drive it some where to have a safety inspection / VIN check they handed me a metal plate. I said thank you and beat it out the door

Back in CT anything 10+ years old or from out of state had to have a safety check at the state run DMV building(s) and to do so you needed a temp (paper) plate good for 30 days and you only got two of them for the year on that car / truck so get a metal plate or park it till next year.
Each state is a little different.
Dave ----