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I figured I may as well just make a thread to show myself that "yes, you do make progress on that truck every now and again". Last Saturday I got the truck pulled out and it looks much better without all the small trees around it. Another small note is that when I was under the truck cutting the tree out from the rear bumper I noticed the reason why it sits so high: apparently someone put lift blocks in the rear. Also while I was airing up the front left wheel I could see that the front shocks aren't original either. I still have no clue the story on what happened before my one relative owned it. It has a different front clip, the engine clearly was abused, and a poorly made wooden flatbed, but it also has all the options??? I have no clue. Second gen struggled with how buried it was. Beautiful Pennsylvania scenery btw. Front left POV. 1979 Ford F-250 (tree for scale) Gives a sense of how high it sits. Also someone was nice enough to remove the back window for me. The air cleaner was roughly thrown on for this picture, but it was off for all of those 15 years it sat. Pretty sure there is an active mouse nest in the intake. Good thing I'm not using this greasy 351. Good riddance, too.
Thanks, this will definitely be a "when available" project. Here's some pics from a few months ago that show some other angles. https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com...XP7ynfbA=s2048 Also, does anyone know what the thing next to the Duraspark module is on the fender? Is it some sort of aftermarket horn or another weird neat feature that I don't know about. Sorry if I sound stupid when I say this I just can't think of what it's purpose is.
(EDIT) Just noticed what it was. That is a jack right? Or am I still wrong?
Also, does anyone know what the thing next to the Duraspark module is on the fender? Is it some sort of aftermarket horn or another weird neat feature that I don't know about. Sorry if I sound stupid when I say this I just can't think of what it's purpose is.
(EDIT) Just noticed what it was. That is a jack right? Or am I still wrong?
I like the aftermarket horn idea. But yes it is the jack.😂
X2 ol school screw type jack. Do you have the crank handle for it under the seat? it might be a straight one or a hinged folding one, flip the seat back fwd and look for one. You should have ONE block in between the axle and the leaf spring. If you have 2, then some one added it.
Huh, no clue they came with blocks from the factory. That would make sense though, because while the front shocks are aftermarket, they don't look like they're an upgrade. Also I will check under the seat next time I can work on it. Really dig through the whole interior to find clues as to how on earth such a high trim truck got treated so poorly. Although, I'll have to watch out for all the broken glass. At least it's only tempered glass shards so it shouldn't cut me to bad. Odd question, but how much extra weight can the stock 250 front end handle as far as *cough* the engine?
Huh, no clue they came with blocks from the factory. That would make sense though,
Factory blocks were cast of steel or iron (magnetic anyway), hollow like on the side towards wheel, 3" high at front but 3-1/4" high at rear to angle the pinion up a hair, included two loops that U-bolts run in on wheel side, a "wing" on the frame side to catch bump stops. Springs 3" wide.
Factory blocks were cast of steel or iron (magnetic anyway), hollow like on the side towards wheel, 3" high at front but 3-1/4" high at rear to angle the pinion up a hair, included two loops that U-bolts run in on wheel side, a "wing" on the frame side to catch bump stops. Springs 3" wide.
Was that an extra option you could get? Or did all of them come like that. That would explain the weird "ears" I saw sticking towards the pumpkin. I thought that it was part of the aftermarket lift kit and that would be where you mounted your shocks. Interesting though.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
That's original thread from when I knew a lot less about what I was doing, just in case if anyone wanted it.
WARNING: I sounded a bit dumb and maybe like I had no clue what I was doing. I also didn't quite know the course this project would take. Originally this was just going to be my "nice but clapped truck" for when I turned 16, but now it's a "short-term restoration" for later in high-school. Mostly considering I can really only work on this truck on certain weekends and I don't have much equipment/indoor storage space.
(EDIT) I should also mention I am extremely stingy and don't want to put more that $500 into this truck. I plan to mostly just buy a cheap, rusty, no driveline parts truck with no title to sacrifice for parts. The extent of the restoration is painting everything, swapping the engine, and filling in the rust holes with assorted sheet metal.
Older block have the U bolt loops, newer ones do not. The ears are for your frame mounted bump stops to have something to hit.
Can get 2 different heights.
1979 F250 4wd OEM block and a 6" lift kit rear leaf spring. And had to reuse the OEM block. AND there is a pinion angle correction degree shim. No U bolt loops.
Stock 4wd 78/79 F250 has 2 leafs (per side) on the front springs. You can put a 460 in there and still be ok. As long as you get a rear sump oil pan. Or do not off road it. So you need a 4wd 460 pan (or buy the conversion). NOT a car 460 or a 2wd truck 460 with a front sump or you can HIT the pumpkin on the front of the pan....it off roaded hard.
Do not put worn out High Boy leafs on it, smack the pan with the pumpkin and then (smoke crack or some such stuff) and put FRONT blocks on it. Dang PO and their brain deadness.
See the dent in the oil pan?
Thanks, I'm not 460 swapping mine, but I plan on putting in a 5.8 Perkins diesel with like a 40 quart oil pan so I maybe should consider that. I believe I have the newer ear style blocks without the U bolt holes. As for height I don't remember if I have the lower or higher blocks. What do I need clearance as far as the front axle if I'm gonna put a massive engine with a massive oil pan in? Worst comes to worst I may just make a smaller oil pan, but I've heard that with the RPM's the Perkins was designed to run at, it may be safer to have a lot of oil.
(EDIT) I also plan on doing some *light* offroading but I should still be careful and make sure I have room for error... or potholes.
Looking at the rear spring picture, I think it would be a good idea to check the pinion angle.
It should be close to the same angle as the output on the transfer case.
In the picture it looks like a 3 degree shim correction.
This is tilting the rear pinion upward. I'm not sure this is needed. It may even should be turned the other direction.
It will work like it is but if you are getting vibration in the shift lever I would check the angles. Just a thought.
The front looks like it has a hefty set of springs.
I think maybe set the engine and see if it can handle the new engine weight. Hard to tell without trying it.
Looking at the rear spring picture, I think it would be a good idea to check the pinion angle.
It should be close to the same angle as the output on the transfer case.
In the picture it looks like a 3 degree shim correction.
This is tilting the rear pinion upward. I'm not sure this is needed. It may even should be turned the other direction.
It will work like it is but if you are getting vibration in the shift lever I would check the angles. Just a thought.
The front looks like it has a hefty set of springs.
I think maybe set the engine and see if it can handle the new engine weight. Hard to tell without trying it.
I think you may be looking at his pictures, I haven't sent any pictures of just the springs yet. I did get some pictures this weekend, I'll post those in just a bit. In other news, this weekend I pulled out the bench (wasn't hard because it wasn't bolted in for some reason), ripped out the carpet, found a horde of ants, peeled up some sound deadening that revealed some remarkable paint underneath, sweeped out all the glass and dirt, and cleared most of the junk off of the bed. I might take a picture next time I see it of all the tools I found inside. However I didn't find that jack handle unfortunately. See you in a bit when my phone is done charging.
Finally got the pictures, I didn't get any pictures after I took the carpet out and swept suck at not catching my finger frame is actually pretty good window seal did not want to give up it's precious glass shards. finally got it tho had to get one exterior photo there's those blocks that don't have the loops other side of the rear axle the gross interior WITH carpet (no pictures without for now) (EDIT) You can also see the orange auction ticket sticking out of the glove box that bought this truck all those years ago the corner where the rat's nest was back axle from the front it is unfortunately a ball joint dana 60 but you can't have it all ok, TWO exterior picures other side of the front axle
All right, that's all of them for now.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
slow n steady wins the race!
https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com...XP7ynfbA=s2048
