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Just pondering, could a dead/dying battery be the root of this? It was barely turning over this morning. And when the chugging started, and I stopped it and started it a couple times (to capture the attached log above) it started.ok (but was chugging/missing) then it sat for about 15 minutes before I tried it one last time for another scan and it barely turned over. Wouldn't think the battery would have drained that fast. Unless there's a short in it somewhere.
The 6.0 is ESPECIALLY sensitive when it comes to questionable batteries. I'm going through this with a customer now. Make sure your charging system is up to par and you have good batteries that can stand a load test.
Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. Make sure the glow plug/alternator charge wire connection is clean as well.
yup,
those batteries take quite a "hit" for the first couple of seconds.
that is 852 amps, the meter was on "Peak Hold"...
everything has to be clean and tight, and large enough gauge to handle that current without voltage drop.
why is the 6.0 "so sensitive" as compared to the 7.3 ??
that 852 amps was on my 7.3L
It's more tightly engineered and more electrically involved than a 7.3 is. The only job of the IDM is to up convert voltage from 12 to 120 volts for the injectors. The FICM not only up converts voltage but also controls fueling. It also has an air management system that is VERY precise hence the need to keep things clean, wired correctly, and use Motorcraft or Navistar parts.
When folks use aftermarket parts and don't take care of the engine, expenses add up quickly. I've built quite a few 6.0 trucks for several customers in the past. Was it cheap? No, but if they did what I told them to do, I never saw them again and they only had to pay for maintenance they didn't feel like doing. (Oil and fuel filter changes)
Took the batteries out, charging them and will take them in for a load test. I've been having issues with them as of late. Weird all the codes it's throwing though...
Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Cylinder #3 Contribution/Balance
This DTC may be caused by :
Internal engine components
Possible causes are:
Fuel Injector
Valve train assembly
Compression rings
Refer to the vehicle Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Manual for specific diagnostic steps.
Note: The A/C must be off when carrying out the KOER cylinder contribution test.
Here's the weird stuff though. I have a fuel gauge on it. It's wired to a circuit that is only hot with the ignition in the run/on state. When I went to take the batteries out today (it still sits in the parking lot where I placed it when the chugging began), that gauge was still lit, meaning with the ignition off, key out of the ignition, that circuit was still hot, and it should NOT be. Ugh....
Oh, by the way, I did put in a new alternator (upgrade over stock) last year when I replaced the HPOP (the second one that has went out on me) and a new upgraded FICM. After battery check, I'll double check all the additional cables the upgrade alternator came with. Battery terminals were tight when I removed them to take the batteries home for a charge (taking them in afterwards for a shop test). But not sure about the connection points at the alternator or the grounds.
Better double check the wiring to the 4 pin connector on that Alternator.
my Leece-Neville failed from heat overload, the hood insulation fell apart, and packed up the alternator vents.
I bought a MechMan 320A alternator, and the way the harness was configured was Wrong, it resulted in a 1.6 amp parasitic draw, which kills batteries in about a week.
I cut the wire off, and ran a new wire from Fuse # F2-45 to the Alternator, now when the key is OFF, so is the Alternator.
Thanks @John in OkieLand
I've had that alternator in for well over a year. So if I had that issue it would have cropped up earlier. It's been relatively recent, last month or so, where (now that I think of it) some mornings the batteries would be weak during cold start. But be fine restarting after running around (as the batteries were charged back up and things were warm). So I'm thinking it's an electrical issue, short or something to that affect. Here's the timeline of things as I've now thought back on it:
Batteries were "weak" during cold starts as the Excursion sat overnight (couple/few weeks of this, but not every morning, just some mornings)
Had a random code thrown about the glow plug circuit for cylinder 2. This code showed up once only (pulled it with Forscan when the check engine dash light came on). Several starts later that code aged out and didn't come up again.
Couple weeks later, I had to take my kid to the ER. The rest of the family sat in the truck and watched a movie on the overhead entertainment system I have in it, didn't want them in the ER getting exposed to funk going around. This, of course, killed the battery to the point where the truck wouldn't start. I had to have a jump to get us home.
Two days later, after that jump start, is when it started chugging when going to pick up the kids from school (a block from school, so didn't drive it but 1/2 a mile or so and parked it). That's when I pulled all the codes from the original post attached Forscan log. And that's when I noticed that the fuel gauge that I added has its backlight on not matter if the key is in the ignition or not (stayed on overnight as the truck sat before taking the batteries out of it yesterday for charging and testing). So - something happened after I jumped it to get it started at the ER. The battery check (I imagine) will show all is good with the two batteries. They're 3 years old, but then again has been going through overnight drains for several weeks now (per notes 1 and 2 above).
My local Ford Diesel mechanic (really knows his stuff) isn't available until January. So I'm going to have to get it towed home to sit until then, then towed again to the shop.
Well, this is interesting. I took the batteries out yesterday. Charged one overnight for 10 hours. Had the second one on a charger for 5 hours today. Took them both into have them tested, both tested as faulty. So, bought two new ones and put them in. A couple symptoms disappeared (such as the fuel gauge light no longer stayed on). Started it up and it was chugging again like last time. This time, however, the fuel gauge dropped to zero (when there's over half a tank in) and the fuel pressure gauge is showing 0 (although it is lit and went through initial spin up). At any rate, seems like either:
The battery/ies faulted on me and cause other electrical issues
OR
Other electrical issue(s) occurred and cause faulting of the batteries
Remains to be seen. I've heard many times how low/dead batteries can cause other issues in the 6.0. The FICM is relatively new, replaced it a little over a year ago. Also had the instrument cluster rebuilt (thought the fuel gauge was going out, turned out the float in the in tank sending unit had fallen off - but the cluster had some cracked traces so a rebuild was definitely good for it).
Anyhow, won't get time with the local Diesel guru (that knows all Ford diesel engines through and through) until early January. It will just have to sit until then....
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