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I tend to keep vehicles for a very long time so maintenance is a priority. Someone suggested I pull the spark plugs and apply antiseize to make it easier down the road to replace the plugs.
I always use anti-seize and dielectric grease. Only on Harley's will I do this to a new engine (air cooled Harley's). I think the above advice is good but if you do wait, some PB blaster then wait over-night will do the trick.
The manual probably says to keep the threads dry. I suspect that's 1) to stop folks from getting way overzealous with the anti-seize and screwing something up and 2) to stop folks from over torqueing and screwing something up. The same goes for lug nuts.
If you must, apply a very light coat and don't crank on them when reinstalling.
Yeah there are two schools of thought here. Some will say that anti-seize on the threads alters the torque values and can lead to problems down the road. I've done it both ways in the past, never had a plug blow out. But I have also noticed that some new spark plugs come out of the box with a coating on the threads, so I doubt it's needed to put your own on them.
In my 50 years of servicing my own vehicles (Remember adjusting the dwell angle when replacing the points and condenser in your distributor?), I have never applied anything to spark plug threads.
In my 50 years of servicing my own vehicles (Remember adjusting the dwell angle when replacing the points and condenser in your distributor?), I have never applied anything to spark plug threads.
Have you ever had a engine with aluminum heads before?
Always apply anti-seize to plug threads in aluminum heads.
Have you ever had a engine with aluminum heads before?
Always apply anti-seize to plug threads in aluminum heads.
Had several aluminum heads in both cars and motorcycles. Torque specifications in the owner's manuals never said anything about using anti-seize.
Did run across a few warnings about using only blue Loctite and not red on aluminum threads ... of course, never on the spark plugs.
Anytime I open a can of antiseize, I end up looking like the Scarecrow on The Wizard of Oz.
If it was my engine, I'd follow Ford specifications for spark plug installation and call it a day. You're not driving a 2 V 5.4L V-8 with the self-egress spark plug option.
Anytime I open a can of antiseize, I end up looking like the Scarecrow on The Wizard of Oz.
If it was my engine, I'd follow Ford specifications for spark plug installation and call it a day. You're not driving a 2 V 5.4L V-8 with the self-egress spark plug option.
I think you meant the "Tin man"? Because I've been there done that lol
There are plenty of articles that address this. Simply said, I would go by the spark plug manufacturers' recommendation. Most DO NOT recommend an anti-seize lubricant as the spark plug threads are allready coated with a suitable material from the factory. Anti-sieze is a lubricant will lower the coefficient of friction. This WILL skew the installation torque process resulting in overtightened spark plugs. Please understand the effects of torque on lubricated versus non lubricated fasteners. If you must use anti-sieze then the dry torque must be reduced by approximately 20 percent according to this article.
Had my spark plugs replaced on my 2013 6.2L around 2020. Truck had 100,000 miles and although I'm in NC, it was the truck I plowed snow with. Maybe ten or so snow events but the truck is well taken care of.
1. Plugs came out just fine. The shop was sort of surprised.
2. They replaced them with plugs that already come with an anti-seize type coating.