This is for us 11 to 16 owners with this unit...

6.7L Diesel Fuel System Service Tips Job Aid

 

Well the symptoms came back with a vengeance yesterday. Although I do think there was some voltage stuff going on. I also decided it was a dumb move not to at least talk to the dealer because the pump should be under warranty. They said change filters first thing. Bought the motor craft ones $150 😡

but voila…… with a lot of priming, so far the pump is now completely silent. I’ll post back if this is not the resolution.

 

Good news... let me guess... you bought the set at the dealer?

 

correct, this was the solution

 

Okay I figured...

Here's a few options for you... cheaper than the dealer so maybe in your best interest to order at least two sets to save some money...

I've ordered from these guys before a few years back... still have two sets of the fuel filters left, plus one 6R140 trans filter as well. I also ordered a spare cap, drain plug and WIF sensor also from them. If you spend at least $250, it ships for free.

https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...rd-trucks.html


Rock Auto also has a great price on the Motorcraft set as well.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...HzHzp9xkRi6UKV

 

motorcraft filters fit correctly, allowing the housing on the lower filter to completely close.

In addition, as mentioned, the filter media is important.

Change them every 15K miles, more if you suspect dirty fuel.

Carry a spare on board, especially if you travel alot, operate in cold weather and spend the night at truck stop or two.

 

Ok I missed that he is running a 2011. I am running a 17. On my truck the dcfm is a separate unit mounted underneath the truck and has an electric pump in the tank. The replacement pumps in the tank kept failing for me. I was buying oem ford from the dealer. Also was running oem filters along with an additive for lubricant. Also my truck has a fuel pump relay in the rear of the truck that LOOKS like what is on the 6.2 gas and my Taurus. I replaced those also although I cannot confirm those were bad, I had to try something.Lol.

As said before a fass pump fixed it for me. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Ah gotcha... no problem. Just more info for me to digest as I don't have an Alumina Duty but like to learn... and thinking of that change, it is interesting that Ford went ahead and changed the whole primary pump side of things by increasing the size of the primary filter, and hence, increasing the capacity of the primary filter housing to hold captured moisture, which to me says that they had more CP4s failing than they would ever admit.

Appreciate the clarification. Have a good one...

 

Don't forget about local stores. Bought my last of filters (oil, trans, fuel) from Advance Auto and it was cheaper than dieselfiltersonline. Free shipping or free pickup and they regularly have a 20% discount available

 

Oh I spend more than enough money at my local Advance Auto... just checked and with the 15% online order discount, it still comes to $84.99 for the FD4615 kit... but still cheaper than the dealer. Good to have a cheaper and local option if need be.. great point Dave.

Just saw they built a new O'Reilly's not far from my house... they have the FD4615 set for the same price of $99.99 I saw online.

 

I may be having the same issues. I recently change the frame filter with a Motorcraft filter and the underhood filter as well (out of the same Motorcraft box). I did ny usual prime sequence and the truck started.

This is not a truck I routinely drive.

I think I did this about the first of December, so maybe a little more than 30 days ago. The truck has sat since then. (I did not drive it after the filter change, only let it idle for maybe a minute or so checking for leaks.)

I went to start it today and it only cranks. The in tank pump runs, but it never seems to build pressure. Previously, when I did a filter change, after priming the in tank pump would pressurize and shut off. I could hear it bog down as it built pressure and then shut off. Now it just runs for the 30 seconds and shuts off. I did attempt to prime things again by letting the pump run at least 7 or 8 times, but it never acted like it was pumping fuel. It just ran the 30 seconds and shut off.

So 2 questions- as I bought the Motorcraft filters from amazon, how can I tell if they're legit? I'm may still have the box they came in. Second- has anybody experienced an in tank pump failure where the pump runs but does not pump any fuel?

tia


Edited to add- This is on a 2013 250, 6.7 that I have not yet tried to pull codes from. I see normal dash lights when I cycle the pump. There is not any leak I've found yet. All the filter fittings are dry.

 

There's no in-tank primary pump. That started in 2017. Ours have the primary pump on the driver's side frame just behind the driver's seat position; DFCM aka Diesel Fuel Conditioning Module. Check there as there's two stops, one on the cap and one on the pump, that when it's tightened properly, these stops meet. It's possible that the cap is not all the way up and sucking air. I use fresh engine oil on the O-ring and the cap threads. You have to be careful or you could overtighten breaking off the stops. That's the first thing I would check.

As to the set off of Amazon, they could be counterfeit... I posted a ton of pics on this topic as I ordered a set that I believe were fake. But prior to that, I have bought legit sets from them prior... but I will no longer buy them off of Amazon because of this... I'll find that thread later for you.

 

I found my box from the Motorcraft filters. It really looks just like every other fuel filter box I’ve gotten in the past. All the stuff inside looked the same as well. At this point in time, I’m going with the assumption it’s a true Motorcraft set of filters.

I’ll double check the filter housing. I’m pretty sure I remember going past the first stop, but will double check it.

 

Okay good thing then...

But the DFCM check would be a good place to start. If you shine a flashlight up towards the back of the pump, you will see those two stops and if they are together or not...

Once you see they are getting close, to coming together, it's important that you go slow and feel when they come together because it is easy to keep going and break them off since they are made of plastic...

 

I finally had the chance to inspect the DFCM. Everything was as it should be visually. So I took it apart to verify the oring was not torn up somehow. That was also in good shape. I put it back together and tried priming it.

No bueno.

So I pulled it apart again to inspect the replacement filter and ensure it matched the outgoing filter. Everything looked the same there, though I forgot to look at the filter for numbers like the old one has on it. I put it all back together and primed the daylights out of it. I've never primed one as much in the past as I did this one. After 11 primings, I tried starting her.

I was just turning the key to off when it started. I primed again and started it. (so 12 primings total on this last try).

It seems to run as previously experienced. It seems to crank a little longer than previously. But I'm only talking cranking for 2 seconds now before it starts, when in the past it felt like it only cranked for 1 second before it would start.

I'm going to drive it tomorrow, assuming it starts in the morning and see how it goes.

Thanks for your help Overkill2. Hopefully it's just normal weirdness and nothing more.