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Now developed a crack in the top of the radiator (not hose). This radiator is mostly plastic, so I'm looking for an all metal replacement. What are the options? Brands?
'99 Ford E350 Super Duty Van.
I just did mine, swapped to full electric all aluminum
I had to drill and weld on new -AN fittings for the trans cooler.
ALL the radiators out
Rive nuts, some aluminum, a 175off 195 on switch inline on the lower hose tapped out to 3/8 -6an fittings as the aftermarket lines are way to small. 4 fans dual ball bearing from summit with 2 relays for AC and the switch. HUGE upgrade
here are the same. i got this one. here are some pictures.
you can put a temp switch anywhere you want, the trick is that before you had a POS clutched fan that was ALWASY ON and even though the clutch "works" its taking a considerable amount of power from the engine.
NOW I have electric fans that do have a life span, if they were on all the time they will last a lot less. MOST of the time you are driving so the fans are NOT necessary. Mine only kick on after i get to a light for too long.
If you put the switch on the block, the fans will run all the time, if you put it on the top of the radiator at the unused bung it will run some of the time even when you are moving. If you take the temp AFTER the radiator it will never run unless needed. I did a lot of testing and this is the best way to do this. no one sells a 4x4 radiator shroud, only a 2 fan
If i did it again i would use a proper DIY fuse block i did not know exists now!
Back to basics: I'm looking for options/brands that fit current configuration but might be heavier duty/cooling. Aluminum no plastic.
ok, bro
i just told you there is only one option, all the brands are the same Chinese stuff, its ebay or pay more for the same thing on summit.com etc...
you can use the OEM shroud and clutched fan if you like.
there is NOT much as for options here. This is is. not much more basic than this. good luck if you do not like this as an option.
If you have cooling problems or want the system to be clean, check out thermocure. its made by the same company that makes evaporust. it takes a LOT to flush it out but it works CRAZY good.
Looks Familiar!
like i said, ALL of these radiators are ALL the same made by the same maker in china, they rebrand them to other sellers on ebay, summit, amazon etc....
you WILL have issues with the trans cooler line being VERY small
When you get yours, pressure test it to 20psi before your return window closes.
I had one that had a bad weld pin hole leak, fixed it with my TIG
When you get yours, pressure test it to 20psi before your return window closes.
Generally testing a pressure vessel that will contain a fluid should be tested with a fluid under the anticipated sustained operating pressure. Air alone may reveal but might miss something so its far from the absolute "best" test.
Good idea to test before fully installing and connecting the radiator!
Generally testing a pressure vessel that will contain a fluid should be tested with a fluid under the anticipated sustained operating pressure. Air alone may reveal but might miss something so its far from the absolute "best" test.
Good idea to test before fully installing and connecting the radiator!
What equipment needed and how would you bench test one? Practical $ wise for DIYer?
What equipment needed and how would you bench test one? Practical $ wise for DIYer?
a bycicle pump or air compressor
$0.45 PVC caps at home depot
a few pices of the old radiator hose
75% dawn dish soap and water mix in a spray bottle
go over all welds and seams OR if you have a tub of water you can submerge it in.
As for using liquid to get a better test..
A gas is thinner than a liquid thus will show a pin hole MUCH better, these systems dont even see 20PSI, your OEM cap is 17psi
testing with a liquid is MUCH safer but only at high PSI range, like testing the air tank of a sir system or jet tires at 300PSI type of thing.
it takes just a second to do it with air and if there is a leak this will find it no problem
if you want the best test, a vacuum test is best but you don't have that equipment.
The chances of a leak are slim or you’d have heard about it. If you must, install and use a cooling system pressure tester (net free to borrow from an auto parts store) before filling. Then fill and test again before hooking up the transmission lines. Test drive to get everything to temp then check fluid levels and make sure there’s no mixing of coolant and ATF.
the one i ordered has a pin hole on the corner, the reason you see either no reviews or good reviews is that they rebrand them all the time.
If the trans cooler had a leak then yes coolant and ATF would mix, but this is why we spend 20 minutes and a few bucks to test things before they go in. anyone as a mechanic who does not charge by the hour crap will do this.
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