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I've got a '76 F150, 360 4wd. I just changed the timing chain on it, put everything back together. When I was trying to line up the dots to 12 and 6 on the old chain before I took it off, the crank wouldn't budge more than a couple degrees. Turns out I was in gear still. Thought I was in neutral but nevertheless. Fast forward, got the dots aligned, new chain on, and everything put back together. Now the distributor won't spin when cranking. Has anyone got some insight as to what I might have done or how to move forward with this? Just trying looking for advice before I take it back apart.. Thanks in advance.
Are you sure the distributor is seated all the way? when you push it the last bit the rotor should turn as the gears mesh and the pump drive seats.
If that's not the problem a missing key or the dowl in the sprockets is about all that's left.
I never removed the distributor so I don't think it would've been unseated but I'll check for sure. I might not have pushed the cam sprocket dowel in far enough. It was giving me some trouble and I never even thought about pushing it in farther.
Depending on the fuel pump eccentric you have there can be a couple different dowels. it's kind of a hokey set up Ford could have done better.
If you didn't remove the distributor, it can't be the problem. unfortunately, from what you're saying there's no fix without pulling the front off again.
If the distributor is not turning while cranking, if it means the cam isn't turning, could be bad. You did put the key in the crank shaft keyway and index the pump cam at the cam?
One other point on FE engines--the factory style setup often had a spacer washer between the cam gear backside and the forward face of the cam proper. Examine the depth of your new cam gear relative to the old to know if you need this spacer or not. On a rebuild i did nearly 40 years ago, i dinna pay attention to this and ruined a cam and a few lifters as the cam would move longitudinally between idle and off idle. One of the clues was that the timing moved about 30 deg when the cam shifted.
Depending on the fuel pump eccentric you have there can be a couple different dowels. it's kind of a hokey set up Ford could have done better.
If you didn't remove the distributor, it can't be the problem. unfortunately, from what you're saying there's no fix without pulling the front off again.
Long pin in the 1 piece eccentric shorter one with 2 piece. Combine that with the C spacer or not and miss marked parts. Most of the gear and chain manufactures are clueless. They know it will fit and it's up to the buyer to determine, it fits with what?
Sorry for all the missed replies. Life's been in the way of me working on the truck. Took of the timing cover again based on a hunch. Turns out the dowel was into the cam sprocket far enough. Tapped it in a bit more and turned over the crank by hand with the distributor cap off and it spun just fine. I appreciate all the help though from everyone involved
Sounds like your dowel is too short, it shouldn't be able to back out at all.
Your dowel should bottom out and be just short enough it doesn't contact the fuel pump eccentric. you'll be pulling it apart again if you don't get it corrected.
Dowel needs to protrude into eccentric to hold in place, large washer under cam bolt will stop it from going further on old type one piece type. Two piece has bent tap to take care of eccentric, dowel only needs to go part way through timing gear. I prefer old style but both work fine.
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