Ok we need help bad. My dad has a 93 F 150, 5.0. The last few weeks or so, its been running real bad, hesitating and sluggish. Well we had a tune up done on it, and also got rid of the cat and replaced the muffler. It was still running rough after doing all of that. Today he drove it down the road, and go to the stop and it died. Took awhile to get it stared, but when it did start it blew out black smoke and still wanted to die. He had to keep his foot on the gas to keep it running then throw it in drive so it would take off and get back home. Sounds to me like it is flooding its self out, or has jumped time. Can anyone please PLEASE HELP us on this. We really need his truck running so hell stay out of my bronco .

Thanks and all help is appreciated.

I just found out from him that is valves are also clattering, and that it loses tremendous power when going up a hill.

 

sounds like the fuel pressure regulator went bad on you or you have aquired a vacumn leak . has it been using excessive amounts of fuel lately?if so my vote would be fuel pressure regulater.

 

Yes its been drinking fuel like its free lately.

 

LOL

Ah... fond memories of my Bronco...

Do the FPR 1st............. WHY?

I went thru EVERY engine computer component (About 700 dollars) there is and then changed my FPR, fixed it all... man was that fun, let me too you.

5MPG and stalling at lights...

LL!

Adam

 

OK now that yall have pretty much figured it out for me, lol. Where is the PFR and how do i change it? Also how much is it going to set me back?

Thanks

 

At least one of the 3 screws is PITA to get to, but it's not very expensive and pretty straightforward to replace. Just be sure to drain the pressure from the fuel system before removing the FPR or it'll spray gas all over you.

 

Ok have some more questions. Could it have possibly jumped time? Could it be the 87 octane that he uses burned out the injectors? How do i release the preasure so i can replace the FPR? Could it be anything else besides this part?

Thanks

 

i believe you will see a valve on the fuel rail that looks kinda like a tire valve if you push it in with a small screwdriver it will spray a little but that will remove the pressure.no it couldnt be the 87 octane burned out an injector because that is the octane requirment for the vehicle. sure it could have jumped time but that is unlikely and the regulator is much less expensive to replace.as steve 83 says the one screw is a terrible pain to get to but it is definetly doable. this is listed as a common problem on these engines and my guess is still that it went bad. remember it is always the simple things that trick us into thinking more seriuos problems have occured. when the regulator goes bad it doesnt open up and let the fuel go back to the tank so there is very high pressure in the fuel rail therefor it makes the engine run real bad and use plenty and i mean plenty of fuel. good luck and let us know how you make out on the repair.

bob

 

Ok, i see the picture of the 5.8, so where is it on the 5.0 302 engine? Sorry for all of the questions, its just that we need this truck fixed soon as possible and im the only one thats going to be doing it without paying for an expensive mechanic. So im new at this and dont wanna screw anything up.

Thanks

 

It's in the same spot on the 5.0L - just open your hood and look. But a quick test is to see if there's gas in the red line. If not, it may be the timing chain.

The Ford-recommended technique for releiving the pressure is to pry up the button on the inertia switch while the engine is running, and let it die. Then crank it a few times to be sure, and you're ready. When you get everything reinstalled, be sure to reset the switch!

 

The truck wont start without holding down the gas pedal. Then when it starts it blows black smoke out the pipe, and then dies. You have to keep your foot on the gas for it to continue to run. So prying up the button and letting the truck die is pointless, cause its going to die as soon as u take your foot off of the gas. Where is the inertia switch anyway?

 

Killing the engine isn't the goal, so do it. Your inertia switch is probably directly forward of the brake pedal on the firewall below the steering column, like this:

 

Ok, we had the truck towed to a repair shop. They put the truck on the diagnostic machine, they said the computer was "blocked" and they couldnt get any codes. So we had it towed to the fomoco down the road, they bipassed the computer and got some codes. Found out that the O2 sensor wasnt unplugged when the first shop took off the cat, so its burned out now. When it burned out it messed up another sensor. They replaced the engine electronic control sensor, which they said tells the computer when the engine is hot and when its cold and that it was bad so it was telling the computer that the engine was way hot when it was actually cold. Anyway, they said that its running fine now and that if we want it to run like new that we should put a new cat on it and replace the O2 sensor. Drove it home today (about 30 miles) and it runs fine, but its still sluggish going up hills. Also sometimes when dad takes off from a stop, it hesitates then goes on. The truck is still drinking fuel like its free, went through almost an 1/8 of a tank in just that short drive. That is a hell of alot worse than my bronco, and it should be getting the same if not better.

So i guess my question is. Is there anything else that could be wrong with it that will make it sluggish up hills or hesitate taking off? Also what could make it drink gas like that? Ford said that the FPR didnt send a code back... i guess they checked it as well cause they said it wasnt bad. Dad also said the engine is 'clattering' sorta like valve clatter but im not for sure on that one as i havent heard it. Can anyone please help us out on that. They said it was fixed, but i have my doubts.

Thanks

 

There's nothing electronic about the FPR, so it can't set a code. That was the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor that they replaced, but there's NO way the oxygen sensor could have ANY effect on it. Also, the EEC can't be "blocked" or "bypassed" - the codes are stored in it, so if they got codes, they came from the EEC. You say they recommended a new cat & HEGO (oxygen sensor), but you didn't say if you let them put those on - did you? If not, get SOMEONE to install them - that would be the cause of the hesitation and knocking (running lean).

 

We are going to wait until we get the money to put the cat and o2 sensor back on. If thats the cause of the hesitation and knocking that would be great. So what would make it use so much gas all of a sudden?