Pulling 4.9L away from E4OD
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 3
From: Langhorne, PA
Pulling 4.9L away from E4OD
What is the story with the 4.9L engine mated to an E4OD??
If I want to pull the engine, and install a new one into the truck, what exactly do I have to do in the bellhousing?
Does this engine slide right out, or do I have to remove bolts from the torque convertor/flywheel? Am I gonna have to drain the tranny fluid. Haynes bites. I always get thru these projects, but I'm tired of these 14 dollar do-it-yourself books.
If I want to pull the engine, and install a new one into the truck, what exactly do I have to do in the bellhousing?
Does this engine slide right out, or do I have to remove bolts from the torque convertor/flywheel? Am I gonna have to drain the tranny fluid. Haynes bites. I always get thru these projects, but I'm tired of these 14 dollar do-it-yourself books.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 0
From: Remsen, NY
Here's how I did it:
If you can, make sure the truck is level or even a little up in the front. The torque converter won't fall out that way. Pull the access cover from the bottom of the bellhousing (3 small bolts). Unscrew the torque conver nuts on the front face of the flexplate (flywheel), there are four of them. You have to use a socket and breaker bar to turn the motor over at the crank pulley. When you have all four off, wiggle the motor back and forth by the crank pulley bolt and make sure the TC studs are free from the flexplate. The TC should slide back just a little bit away from the flexplate. Unscrew the nuts on the motor mounts, I found the top ones make it easier to put back together. Unbolt the top four bellhousing bolts, pull the motor up with the hoist a little to clear the motor mount studs, support the bellhousing with a jack in that position, and unbolt the two bottom (side really) bellhousing bolts. Pull the motor up just a little more and it should start to separate. CAREFULLY give it a shake and it should come free. The only thing holding it should be a couple of dowels.
As long as you keep the TC on the pump shaft and don't let it slide out, you don't have to worry a bit about the transmission fluid.
If you can, make sure the truck is level or even a little up in the front. The torque converter won't fall out that way. Pull the access cover from the bottom of the bellhousing (3 small bolts). Unscrew the torque conver nuts on the front face of the flexplate (flywheel), there are four of them. You have to use a socket and breaker bar to turn the motor over at the crank pulley. When you have all four off, wiggle the motor back and forth by the crank pulley bolt and make sure the TC studs are free from the flexplate. The TC should slide back just a little bit away from the flexplate. Unscrew the nuts on the motor mounts, I found the top ones make it easier to put back together. Unbolt the top four bellhousing bolts, pull the motor up with the hoist a little to clear the motor mount studs, support the bellhousing with a jack in that position, and unbolt the two bottom (side really) bellhousing bolts. Pull the motor up just a little more and it should start to separate. CAREFULLY give it a shake and it should come free. The only thing holding it should be a couple of dowels.
As long as you keep the TC on the pump shaft and don't let it slide out, you don't have to worry a bit about the transmission fluid.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 3
From: Langhorne, PA
GatesJ, that was a well written response. I understood everything you said. Why can't the Haynes Tech writers sum-up a simple operation into one paragraph? Am I correct in assuming that there is tranny fluid in the torque conv. and if I drop the TC could I break a line or spill fluid? I'm not familiar with auto trannies, the only engine changes I ever did had manuals on the back end. Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 0
From: Remsen, NY
I think the Haynes tries to fit too much into a small book or something.
The TC is full of fluid, something like 12 qts... It's fed and sealed through the shaft it slides over, but as long as you don't slide it off of that shaft you're in good shape. Some people say don't let it hang on the shaft for too long, more than a few hours, because it'll deform the seal and it'll start leaking. Not sure if that's true. It does get partially supported by the flexplate too. I had no trouble, but I had the motor out and in in an hour for the flexplate.
With the manual, you have to line up the input shaft, splines and all, as you know. Here, you only have to line up the studs on the TC. I think it's actually a little easier.
The TC is full of fluid, something like 12 qts... It's fed and sealed through the shaft it slides over, but as long as you don't slide it off of that shaft you're in good shape. Some people say don't let it hang on the shaft for too long, more than a few hours, because it'll deform the seal and it'll start leaking. Not sure if that's true. It does get partially supported by the flexplate too. I had no trouble, but I had the motor out and in in an hour for the flexplate.
With the manual, you have to line up the input shaft, splines and all, as you know. Here, you only have to line up the studs on the TC. I think it's actually a little easier.
