95 f150 5.0 code 542
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 25
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95 f150 5.0 code 542
I’ve been through about 3 fuel pumps since I’ve owned this truck, just replaced front fuel pump a month ago now I’m losing pressure again, seems like I get pressure to rail when I cold start truck, as soon as I get the throttle the truck stalls and won’t start again, the rear tank is new but I don’t have the pump or sending unit hooked up just the lines (been like that for a while) I have power at fuel pump fuse, swapped relays, and even have power at front fuel pump harness, any help? In my opinion something obviously keeps frying/messing with my fuel pump for the front tank, (I never replaced the sending unit for the front tank) so not sure if possibly the sending unit can be bad. Thank you!
Last edited by Charliebrown182; Oct 24, 2023 at 08:06 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
Is the front fuel tank contaminated?
Pull the front pump back out and check the fuel pump strainer (sock)
Next time it starts to stall out, turn the key off then back on again a couple of times quick
See if it does not pick up and run good for a few more seconds
The test is to drive it around with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield
You need to be able to do that test
Pull the front pump back out and check the fuel pump strainer (sock)
Next time it starts to stall out, turn the key off then back on again a couple of times quick
See if it does not pick up and run good for a few more seconds
The test is to drive it around with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield
You need to be able to do that test
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
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Just had the tank out a month ago to replace the pump, I ended up cleaning the tank while it was out (looked like I picked up water at a gas station) and hopefully I’ll be able to do that test because as soon as I hit the throttle is when the truck bogs down the. I lose fuel pressure and can’t get it to start again. Then i can’t hear the pump kick on until the truck cools down, but I still have power to the relay and fuse and harness
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 586
From: Chillicothe
Three fuel pumps in what span of time?
It sounds like you have a ground problem if you have power at the harness. I went through this years ago with a Blazer. I ended up running a dedicated ground wire along with the factory negative harness wire, and that solved the failed pump issues.
It sounds like you have a ground problem if you have power at the harness. I went through this years ago with a Blazer. I ended up running a dedicated ground wire along with the factory negative harness wire, and that solved the failed pump issues.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
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At least once a year, I’ve owned the truck going on 4 years now, update on truck I came out today and cleaned up any ground I could see hooked up my pressure gauge and had 25psi truck started but runs like crap, did the same thing with dying then not starting, if I let it sit for a little then cycle the key on and off you’ll hear the pump kick on every now in then, but as far as dedicated ground wire do you mean tie into the fuel pump harness and ground it to the frame or body? Sorry if that’s a silly question I’m not smart with electrical at all
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 586
From: Chillicothe
Before you get that far, what brand pumps are you using? Cheap pumps may not last. When my original pump went, I got an airtex that lasted about a year, replaced with another airtex that lasted maybe 2. I got luck that a good friend was junking his 95 f150 because of frame rot. And I swiped the 145k mile Motorcraft fuel pump and put it in my tank. Works fantastic.
But, yes, I soldered in another wire to the negative wire on the pump harness. Then grounded that wire to the frame. That way there was the original wire AND the added one to help.
Do you have a good multimeter? An amp clamp meter would be great for making sure you are getting enough power to the pump. Just because you have 12 volts at the pump does not mean you have full amperage to it. That USUALLY burns up the wiring, but can kill the pump as well.
But, yes, I soldered in another wire to the negative wire on the pump harness. Then grounded that wire to the frame. That way there was the original wire AND the added one to help.
Do you have a good multimeter? An amp clamp meter would be great for making sure you are getting enough power to the pump. Just because you have 12 volts at the pump does not mean you have full amperage to it. That USUALLY burns up the wiring, but can kill the pump as well.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
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The previous pumps were el cheapo’s but I got tired of the games and decided to install a motorcraft and started right up and ran fine and unfortunately got a month out of it
I have do a good multimeter not a amp clamp meter though think I’m gonna try adding in the extra ground wire, wanna see how much resistance I got going to the ground as well I’ll keep you updated worst case might have to drop the tank once again lol
I have do a good multimeter not a amp clamp meter though think I’m gonna try adding in the extra ground wire, wanna see how much resistance I got going to the ground as well I’ll keep you updated worst case might have to drop the tank once again lol
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
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Update on ford, think I might’ve figured it out (been idiling for about and hour now longest it’s stayed running) checked ground at fuel pump connector and had high resistance cleaned plug had a lot of dirt and crud and seemed like it wasn’t making a good connection truck started but fuel gauge was acting funky like if the sending unit had an open circuit truck ran for 30 minutes then lost fuel pressure then shut off, went to computer and removed plug (noticed plug to pcm was loose) removed and just for giggles sprayed electrical contact cleaner on all pins, installed and tightened truck still wouldn’t start because the plug at the pump wouldn’t stay locked into sending unit so had to zip tie together because the lock is broke off and truck started up and gauge is reading correctly, so fingers crossed just gonna keep running it and see what happens
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
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Well truck acted up again, decided to order new updated sending unit for front tank with updated pig tail connector, haven’t installed that yet to front tank, but since I’ve owned the truck I never ran my brand new rear tank, got it hooked up to hopefully full time supply off that until I have time to mess with the front tank, truck started and ran great but noticed the rear tank was getting empty quick (put 10 gallons in it) switched over to front tank and noticed all the fuel was dumping into the front tank this truck doesn’t have a selector valve on the frame like some do, all the lines are just made to one so does this mean the rear tank is just a supply for the front or is a check valve bad in the front tank?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
It means you have a bad one way valve in the tank pump that the fuel is returning to
Ford made some add on one way valves to fix that problem. Check out Ford recall 93S68
It was for uo to 1993 trucks and the one way valve problem in the pumps was fixed by 94-95
The parts to fix it are about impossible to find these days
I had to put one on my 04 Heritage (with a new pump) (would not easily start in the mornings) (fuel pressure loss overnight)
This is what you are looking for, your 95 will take the longer ones
Good luck
Ford made some add on one way valves to fix that problem. Check out Ford recall 93S68
It was for uo to 1993 trucks and the one way valve problem in the pumps was fixed by 94-95
The parts to fix it are about impossible to find these days
I had to put one on my 04 Heritage (with a new pump) (would not easily start in the mornings) (fuel pressure loss overnight)
This is what you are looking for, your 95 will take the longer ones
Good luck
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 25
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Awesome, thanks for the heads up, I bought a new pump assembly gonna put it in today, believe the check valve you’re talking about is made into the pump assembly?
Or that’s the only way to really changes the check valve nowadays is by replacing the pump assembly since you can’t find the individual ones anymore?
Or that’s the only way to really changes the check valve nowadays is by replacing the pump assembly since you can’t find the individual ones anymore?