REMOVE front clip 1955 F-100
#3
#4
There are some really good experts on this forum.
I am not one of them, but I did take my front clip off my 55 about two years ago. It was in horrific shape, and I did not have to worry about scratching something.
As I recall, I removed the hood first, to get it out of the way.
The radiator was already missing.
We removed the bolts from the fenders to the cab and from the inner fenders to the cab sheet metal mounts. Some of the fender to cab bolts are accessible from inside the cab, on each side.
There is one large bolt that holds the radiator support to the frame. It is located in the center of the radiator support.
Also, you need to unplug the headlights and the other electrical items that go to the front clip, such as the horns.
I am trying to remember if there was anything else. My truck was not complete when I bought it, so there may be some things I am missing.
As I recall, it came off in one piece, fairly easily.
You may want to wait for a few more responses from the experts.
Good luck,
I am not one of them, but I did take my front clip off my 55 about two years ago. It was in horrific shape, and I did not have to worry about scratching something.
As I recall, I removed the hood first, to get it out of the way.
The radiator was already missing.
We removed the bolts from the fenders to the cab and from the inner fenders to the cab sheet metal mounts. Some of the fender to cab bolts are accessible from inside the cab, on each side.
There is one large bolt that holds the radiator support to the frame. It is located in the center of the radiator support.
Also, you need to unplug the headlights and the other electrical items that go to the front clip, such as the horns.
I am trying to remember if there was anything else. My truck was not complete when I bought it, so there may be some things I am missing.
As I recall, it came off in one piece, fairly easily.
You may want to wait for a few more responses from the experts.
Good luck,
#5
My truck was not complete, but the PO installed a big block Ford FE engine without removing the front clip. The reason I know this is that there was a big dent in the radiator cowling that probably occurred from dropping a heavy object on it. I figure that he dropped the FE engine on it while he was trying to install it.
#6
I would add, you have to unbolt the fenders from the running boards and remove the alignment struts from the firewall to the radiator support at the fenders.
You will need to spread the front fenders away from the front cab corners a little as you move the clip forward before lifting the whole thing away. I found it easier with the front tires off.
You will need to spread the front fenders away from the front cab corners a little as you move the clip forward before lifting the whole thing away. I found it easier with the front tires off.
#7
OR :
It's my understanding that the realignment of the hood and fenders can be a exercise in frustration, it sure was on my F1. On my last project (non-ford) I took the inner and outer fenders, rad support, grille, headlights off as a unit and marked the hood location on to the hinges. It worked very well, and that is what I am going to do on my '56.
It's my understanding that the realignment of the hood and fenders can be a exercise in frustration, it sure was on my F1. On my last project (non-ford) I took the inner and outer fenders, rad support, grille, headlights off as a unit and marked the hood location on to the hinges. It worked very well, and that is what I am going to do on my '56.
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#8
I would recommend that you remove the hood and stiffening rods and radiator. Pull the offending engine and trans. Once the engine is out you will find that there is plenty of room to work on your new motor mounts and exhaust. Since you already have an IFS then removing the sheetmetal is not worth the effort IMO. If you can afford to buy one or better yet find one to borrow...a P-Ayr foam block will save you a ton of time and effort in placing your 351 engine. I use AOD transmissions on my builds...they are larger than C4s and other ATs so it's best to have a shell available to bolt up when you are fitting up your mounts.
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