360 FE Vacuum Test
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Oklahoma
360 FE Vacuum Test
I'm looking a good location to do a vacuum reading. THe Chilton says "attach the the vacuum beyond the Throttle plate." Would that mean using the vacuum line going to brakes vacuum assist or using this "vacuum terminal block" that is threaded to int intake manifold? The carb in the photo is the original which was rebuilt an the installed when a complete overhaul was done. I suspect it has had it days. I do not know the card manufacturer.
Last edited by ralphyboy; Oct 21, 2023 at 08:28 AM. Reason: Message needed
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
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From: Tri Cities, TN
That vacuum tree on the manifold would be a good spot. Just unplug one of the three capped hoses and hook er up. It wouldn't hurt to go by a parts store and get some real vacuum caps for that tree instead of the hoses with screws in them.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Me I would not change what you got to plug off the ports.
The store bought cap my look nice but they are cheap and will dry up and crack / fall off and then you have a carppy running motor.
If that worried about the screw in the end showing pull them all off and fill them with black RTV and let them get hard for a day or 2 and put them back on.
It will take forever for the hose caps to dry up and fall off.
Now I like the RTV trick that I just came up with I may have to use that on my truck
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,898
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From: Southern California
Yes a good place to pull vacuum from.
Me I would not change what you got to plug off the ports.
The store bought cap my look nice but they are cheap and will dry up and crack / fall off and then you have a carppy running motor.
If that worried about the screw in the end showing pull them all off and fill them with black RTV and let them get hard for a day or 2 and put them back on.
It will take forever for the hose caps to dry up and fall off.
Now I like the RTV trick that I just came up with I may have to use that on my truck
Dave ----
Me I would not change what you got to plug off the ports.
The store bought cap my look nice but they are cheap and will dry up and crack / fall off and then you have a carppy running motor.
If that worried about the screw in the end showing pull them all off and fill them with black RTV and let them get hard for a day or 2 and put them back on.
It will take forever for the hose caps to dry up and fall off.
Now I like the RTV trick that I just came up with I may have to use that on my truck
Dave ----
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Thanls for the advice on the vacuum plugs. The parts stores I shop have a small variety sized packs, I pullebd the vacuum off the tree and was surprised at the reading. I do not have any pinging or auto rotation after shut down. It starts easy with the manual choke, Choke not needed after warm up. Does idle high to my senses. Only non stock items on the overhaul was a RV cam and pointless. New cap with original distributor. I does run a warmer which could be the late timing.
I couple of idicator widths past the middle of the gauge scale. I know there is a lot more than just moving the distributor. I have less than 1,000 miles after the complete overhaul. Is the vacuum guage a way tp set the timing?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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I use a vacuum gauge to set the carburetor idle screws but not ignition timing. For that I start with around 10-12 initial timing (with vacuum disconnected and plugged). So long as it starts easy and idles nice, that's a reasonable starting point. Factory book says around 6-8 initial. Then go by trial and error based on your preferences for total mechanical advance and rate of advance. Usually 38ish degrees is what iron headed FE's like for total mechanical advance. It's up to your preference at what rpm's that happens...probably somewhere between 2500 and 3000 rpms.
By the way, your kinda low vacuum may be due to late ignition timing or could be a factor of your "rv" cam...or a little of both. As long as it runs well and vacuum is steady then it's good. If you had a stock cam I'd expect vacuum to hit 20ish when warmed up and idling.
By the way, your kinda low vacuum may be due to late ignition timing or could be a factor of your "rv" cam...or a little of both. As long as it runs well and vacuum is steady then it's good. If you had a stock cam I'd expect vacuum to hit 20ish when warmed up and idling.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I had a diesel with a Gale Banks turbo I installed and it used silicone hose.
I did find some of the hose split open at the nipples and I dont remember them being that old either.
Me think will stick with vacuum hose with screws in the ends
Dave ----
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 204
Likes: 68
Thanls for the advice on the vacuum plugs. The parts stores I shop have a small variety sized packs, I pullebd the vacuum off the tree and was surprised at the reading. I do not have any pinging or auto rotation after shut down. It starts easy with the manual choke, Choke not needed after warm up. Does idle high to my senses. Only non stock items on the overhaul was a RV cam and pointless. New cap with original distributor. I does run a warmer which could be the late timing.
I couple of idicator widths past the middle of the gauge scale. I know there is a lot more than just moving the distributor. I have less than 1,000 miles after the complete overhaul. Is the vacuum guage a way tp set the timing?
Your current vacuum seems low for an RV cam, especially if the idle is high. Might be timing related or you have a small vacuum leak. Almost more important is a steady needle. No bouncing around or dips is always a good sign.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 49
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From: Oklahoma
I am following up on the vacuum system leak as I search for timing light. I purchased a set of vacuum plugs I found on Amazon. Cheap enough for under $10. They set in good at 5/32 on the vacuum tree. One of the H&M (homemade) plugs on the adapative screw was was easliy removed, The others were tight. They are in the middle of the tray photo. The carb photo show signs of leakage. On the vacuum advance there is an an inlet or outlet not sure. I put finger on it at idle and nothing change to my senses. I through the vacuum meter back on an see if any changes occur.
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