Hello Friends!

I've got an issue with my 1996 Ford F-150 with the inline-6 300CI engine paired with the five speed manual. Got an awesome deal on her for $750. Body's a bit rough in a few places but the frame is very strong. Huge shoutout to the seller's girl who told him he couldn't go home until the truck was sold.

Had a hiccup with the charging system for a bit. Told the guy to disconnect the starter, but he disconnected the positive and ground as well and I barely got it home before the battery got drained. It died on the highway so I had to push it with my FPIU to get it home. Hooked the positive and grounds back and had a whale of a time trying to figure out how to mount the fender solenoid. After a lot of trial and error, eventually I figured out the the two fusible links went together with the positive terminal. The seller replaced the 90 amp alternator with the 130 amp one. I'm surprised it fits.

But there's an issue with the starter that stumped the seller, and it's stumping me too, and part of why he was selling it. With these trucks, there's two starter solenoids and then the starter itself. I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid to ensure that wasn't the issue. As soon as the starter mounted solenoid (SMS) gets power, I can hear a spinning or whirring noise as something is being energized, but the starter itself isn't engaging with the flywheel and turning the engine. Even if I disconnect the ignition wire so it shouldn't be getting a signal to start. I also checked for continuity between the posts and I think I tested it correctly because it's showing "1" instead of "0" for continuity. I don't know how else it's getting the signal to start. I got a replacement coming in from NAPA tomorrow morning so I'm going to give that a try and see if replacing the SMS will fix it. I'm told by a family friend that it's possible the mechanism that connects the SMS to the starter could be gummed up.

Any ideas from you clever folks?

 

Welcome to FTE!

The starter spinning but not engaging is because the spring-loaded electrically activated "Bendix" device that forces the starter gear into the ring gear is bad.

The new starter will "fix" that. But it sounds like you have an electrical issue as well.

Check the connections--

Stand by for more.

 

2 starter solenoids from the factory?
Never heard of that but I know on the older trucks that did not have a solenoid on the starter and you installed a starter with one like a Power Master you have to make a change to the fender mounted one for everything to work right.

When you get the new starter before install take a picture of it and the fender mounted solenoid and we can tell you what you got and how it should be wired.
Dave ----

 

Thanks for the welcome! I'm not sure what's going on. I'm pretty sure if I disconnect the starter wire, it shouldn't be getting the signal anyways to start.


It's a weird design. I might be getting the terminologies wrong but as far as auto parts catalogs are concerned there's a fender mounted solenoid and a starter mounted solenoid.

I'm fairly certain I have the fender mounted one wired up correctly. It's just three posts: one is the starter, one is the positive battery and two of the 12 gauge ends, and one is the starter ignition.



I also forgot to mention that the key does stick a little. I have to press the steering wheel adjustment button to wiggle the key free, otherwise the key ignition doesn't quite turn all the way way back.

 

On the key not turning back all the way I see 2 different ways to go with this.
Replace the IGN switch down at the bottom top of the column with new.

Or pull the old switch and spray it out with electrical cleaner & lube.
They get a lot of dirt and crap in them and it gets hard to turn the key.
The key moved a rack & pinion to a rod that run down the column to the switch.
Also cleaning the switch helps it make better contact so the power goes where it needs to go.

Mine would do the same not return all the way and a good cleaning & lube fixed it.
Also note when the switch is out there should be a hole you pit a pin / rod thru that holes it in the off pos.
You place the key in the off pos. and drop the switch on the rod and tighten it down and pull the pin out.

Maybe that will also fix the start issue as contacts can make good connections.
Dave ----

 

the fender mounted relay and the starter mounted solenoid.