Tank selector valve
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Tank selector valve
I'm pretty sure my tank selector valve crapped out. Is there anything I am missing here?
Started with a crazy high level reading on front tank after refueling, so I drove by mileage. Rear seemed OK for a while, then after a fill (both tanks) and switching to rear, I got crazy high level reading on rear. I thought I overfilled the rear some, so I drove by mileage, got home with I thought a bit to spare in the rear tank. Next use, still on rear tank, level stayed mostly at empty but with some sporadic rises to random levels, dropping to zero. Close to home, engine started to sputter, so I switched from rear tank to front, which should have had somewhat more than 12 gallons (my standard fill amount) in in. Level gage didn't change, and truck died.
OK I thought, valve did not switch from front to rear as commanded. I assume I am stuck on rear tank. Wait by side of road for friend to come by with 3 gallons or so of diesel, empty can into rear tank. Why is fuel backing up into filler neck? I was slow on the uptake. Cranked truck multiple times, knowing I had to work air out of fuel lines. No result. Hmmm... is the rear tank FULL? Does that mean I've been running on the front tank all along?
Friend goes and gets about 3 more gallons, put in front tank. Leave selector on rear, because it's been on rear and I'm guessing it will pull from front no matter what tank is selected on the switch. Crank more, move selector switch to front after a bit, because, hey, why not? Another crank or two, truck fires, and seems OK.
My presumption is that the selector valve has crapped out and is pulling from the front tank no matter what the switch says. I'm guessing the weird level readings are from the electrical internals in the valves. Tank showerheads were replaced a few years ago when the tanks were replaced.
I'm going to take a look underneath tomorrow to see if there is anything obvious like chafed wires or loose connector at the valve, but I'm figuring on a new valve. Summit is showing Dorman valves at $108 or so, NAPA has same at $186, and RiffRaff has FoMoCo at $370. I'm leaning towards Summit & Dorman... yeah, yeah, probable Chinesium, but a $260 price difference is significant.
Also looks like when I do the replacement, I should figure on a lot of fuel leaking out. I may try clamping the hoses and tapered plugs, but it looks like a messy job.
Anything I am missing?
Started with a crazy high level reading on front tank after refueling, so I drove by mileage. Rear seemed OK for a while, then after a fill (both tanks) and switching to rear, I got crazy high level reading on rear. I thought I overfilled the rear some, so I drove by mileage, got home with I thought a bit to spare in the rear tank. Next use, still on rear tank, level stayed mostly at empty but with some sporadic rises to random levels, dropping to zero. Close to home, engine started to sputter, so I switched from rear tank to front, which should have had somewhat more than 12 gallons (my standard fill amount) in in. Level gage didn't change, and truck died.
OK I thought, valve did not switch from front to rear as commanded. I assume I am stuck on rear tank. Wait by side of road for friend to come by with 3 gallons or so of diesel, empty can into rear tank. Why is fuel backing up into filler neck? I was slow on the uptake. Cranked truck multiple times, knowing I had to work air out of fuel lines. No result. Hmmm... is the rear tank FULL? Does that mean I've been running on the front tank all along?
Friend goes and gets about 3 more gallons, put in front tank. Leave selector on rear, because it's been on rear and I'm guessing it will pull from front no matter what tank is selected on the switch. Crank more, move selector switch to front after a bit, because, hey, why not? Another crank or two, truck fires, and seems OK.
My presumption is that the selector valve has crapped out and is pulling from the front tank no matter what the switch says. I'm guessing the weird level readings are from the electrical internals in the valves. Tank showerheads were replaced a few years ago when the tanks were replaced.
I'm going to take a look underneath tomorrow to see if there is anything obvious like chafed wires or loose connector at the valve, but I'm figuring on a new valve. Summit is showing Dorman valves at $108 or so, NAPA has same at $186, and RiffRaff has FoMoCo at $370. I'm leaning towards Summit & Dorman... yeah, yeah, probable Chinesium, but a $260 price difference is significant.
Also looks like when I do the replacement, I should figure on a lot of fuel leaking out. I may try clamping the hoses and tapered plugs, but it looks like a messy job.
Anything I am missing?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,269
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
You'll get some fuel to drip out so be ready, Im suspecting debris letting the valve to get stuck, before buying a new selector valve remove it and see if you can blow out and gunk (most likely broken shower head pieces)
