Front suspension torque values
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Front suspension torque values
Finally getting around to reassembling the front suspension; I Beams, Radius Arms, shocks, etc., on the 65 F100 and would appreciate if members could refer me to a source. I ordered the Master Catalog CD but I do not recall seeing torque spec's for body front suspension.
Comments/suggestions appreciated!!
Comments/suggestions appreciated!!
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
1965 Ford Trucks Shop Manual. Section 3 is suspension and steering. End of that section has torque values for everything.
The Master Parts Catalog doesn't go into how to perform any work, it's just drawing and lists of parts along with some cross-reference information.
The Master Parts Catalog doesn't go into how to perform any work, it's just drawing and lists of parts along with some cross-reference information.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
The torque specs. are in specification section of the steering and suspension chapter in the shop manual. The only one that can be a problem are the axle pivot bolts. They are 120-150 ft. lbs. and have to be torqued with the truck at normal ride height. I just snugged mind up and had the guy at the alignment shop torque them.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
I have a small beam torque wrench for inch-pound work, then a normal 18" torque wrench that goes to 150 ft-pounds max and for added leverage and torque values up to 250 ft-pounds max I picked up a Husky brand. Many of the Husky tools have lifetime guarantees. The 24" length made it easier to hit that higher torque value.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
The problem I had wasn't that I didn't have the proper tools but with the truck sitting on the floor there isn't enough room under there to get that much torque on that nut. If you have a drive on lift like the alignment shop, it's easy. I like the beam or dial type torque wrenches best. Mainly because they retain their calibration longer and you can tell at a glance if they are off.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
With the click type torque wrenches it's best if you release any pressure on the spring by setting it near or at zero after use. Storing them with pressure on the spring accelerates that de-calibration some.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
The problem with the click type is you have no way to know when they are out of calibration without sending them out to be recertified. When I was doing aircraft work on turbine engines, I only used Sturtevant Richmont or Snap On beam or dial type wrenches, so I still have a few around. I admit most automotive work doesn't require tools that expensive. And the click types are fine if you send them out every few years and have them recertified.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
I be thankin U'all for the information. Loaned my shop manual, Master Catalog cd to a friend now awaiting there return.
Seem to recall posting the spec's when I replaced the front suspension on the other 65 but I was not able to locate the thread. O well?
Driver's side assembly, I Beam, Radius arm, spring, and shock went w/out a problem, will torque once the components are assembled.
On the passenger side the bolt that passes thru the I beam and radius arm has become a major problem, far too tight and the bolt has not seated yet, slight bend to 24" breaker bar has a slight bend and the air gun was not helpful. May beat the bolt out and investigate the reason the components are binding??
Again, thank you for the input!!
Seem to recall posting the spec's when I replaced the front suspension on the other 65 but I was not able to locate the thread. O well?
Driver's side assembly, I Beam, Radius arm, spring, and shock went w/out a problem, will torque once the components are assembled.
On the passenger side the bolt that passes thru the I beam and radius arm has become a major problem, far too tight and the bolt has not seated yet, slight bend to 24" breaker bar has a slight bend and the air gun was not helpful. May beat the bolt out and investigate the reason the components are binding??
Again, thank you for the input!!
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