Diagnosing No Start. Bad injector buzz test?
Owners of the truck bought the truck after taking it for a test drive that satisfied them as to condition. On the drive home it lost power and eventually stalled with lots of white smoke out the tailpipe and in the crankcase (coming out of the oil fill when removed). The temp warning light was seen shortly before the stall. Nothing about the history of the truck is known. No maintenance records. It’s pretty dirty, obviously hasn’t been pampered.
I was called to help figure out the problem. Owner drained oil and described significant sludge. Old oil somehow disappeared so oil analysis was not done. May yet attempt to siphon some out of the HPOP reservoir and send for analysis. Compression test has been performed, showing numbers around 300 psi. Not great but should be enough to fire. Batteries are brand new NAPA and spin the engine at 150 rpm or so. Glow plug relay inop but we have jumped it and tried to start with no change. IPR duty cycle goes to 65% while cranking and ICP reported rises quickly up to 3000-3500 psi. This number has been confirmed at the head with a mechanical gauge. Fuel pressure is 64 psi at the fuel bowl. The PCM is attempting to fire the injectors. A known-good IDM has been swapped in with no change. No smoke has yet been seen out of the tailpipe when cranking. No oil has yet been seen out of the injector spouts when cranking, although I finally know what to look for as far as oil spouting.
My latest move has been to revisit the injector buzz test, which was done before, but I counted as ok due to all 8 injectors sounding about the same during the test. However, I’m thinking now that they may be very quiet compared to good injectors. It is about 90 degrees during the day where I am. I posted the following video to YouTube so that anyone who is interested can listen and offer thoughts on the buzz test:
https://youtu.be/lVqX4e1RYRQ?si=mvKTMPf6obofmmsTIn the next video, it is stated that the truck with the quiet buzz test will not start when hot. I think this quiet buzz test is probably a similar volume to the test I did today:
https://youtu.be/lVqX4e1RYRQ?si=mvKTMPf6obofmmsT
So, did something take out all 8 injectors at once, and to similar degrees? Isn’t this deemed very unlikely to happen on 7.3s? Did a bunch of sludge from the oil pan that had settled while the truck sat for a year get kicked up as soon as it started moving again and slowly made its way into the injectors, where it still sits, too thick for the injectors to fire and manifesting as a quiet-sounding buzz test?
Or are the injectors getting low but equal voltage for a reason besides a faulty IDM? Or do all of these conditions actually seem fine? And in that case, could the breakdown just be symptomatic of the truck sucking air at the fuel tank and stalling due to aerated fuel?
Those are all the observations and suspicions that I can currently think of. Your thoughts are most appreciated!
What is the fuel tank level? The pickup is notorious for breaking off and leaving many vehicles stranded with 1/4 tank on the gauge.
What does the fuel filter look like? Was the pressure read on the pre or post filter port?
It obviously needs oil to fire the injectors, a low level would make them not fire, draining it without knowing the level won't help diagnostics
Tho unlikely due to color of smoke, a rag has been known to be forgotten in the filter housing and stop up the turbo. Usually a lack of air is noted by black smoke, but being a vehicle with unknown history it's worth a look
What is the fuel tank level? The pickup is notorious for breaking off and leaving many vehicles stranded with 1/4 tank on the gauge.
What does the fuel filter look like? Was the pressure read on the pre or post filter port?
It obviously needs oil to fire the injectors, a low level would make them not fire, draining it without knowing the level won't help diagnostics
Tho unlikely due to color of smoke, a rag has been known to be forgotten in the filter housing and stop up the turbo. Usually a lack of air is noted by black smoke, but being a vehicle with unknown history it's worth a look
Fuel pressure reading was taken at the upper port. Am I correct that this is the pre-filter port? Reading on this thread. I will try post. Have also changed the fuel filter since last attempt to start as the o ring that seals the cap was too big to sit down inside the lip. Made quite a mess of diesel in the valley when I discovered that. But yet again an indication that it was not simply out of fuel. I do intend to remove the line to the tank and put it in a gallon of diesel and attempt to start it then, though.
Filter looks ok. Not black or any reason that I see to think it is clogged. There is a not huge but significant amount of small rust-looking particles sitting in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Some drain out when the bowl is drained.
Oil was drained before I was called. New oil sits within spec. HPOP reservoir is full to 3/4” or so below top.
Air filter housing has been pulled to aid access to top of the engine, no obstructions found.
Fuel pressure doesn't necessarily mean adequate flow. You can have 100psi of 1 oz per minute vs 100psi of 10gpm
is the IPR nut right?
Unplug the fuel bowl heater wire and pull and replace fuse # 30 under the dash
Have you tried starting with the ICP sensor unplugged?
Voltage while cranking?
https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/
Fuel pressure doesn't necessarily mean adequate flow. You can have 100psi of 1 oz per minute vs 100psi of 10gpm
is the IPR nut right?
Unplug the fuel bowl heater wire and pull and replace fuse # 30 under the dash
Have you tried starting with the ICP sensor unplugged?
Voltage while cranking?
Do you have a link about the IPR nut? Not sure what that means.
I have WTS light, I understand that means the PCM is getting power so fuel bowl heater is not shorting and blowing the fuse.
I have tried starting with ICP sensor unplugged. Reported pressure defaults, still no start.
https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/
However, the PCM is attempting to fire the injectors, as I have monitored voltage at the injector connector while cranking and seen pulses on a scope (though I need to do a better test as my resolution on the scope was not great when monitoring). Also, the PCM is able to command a buzz test. I would think too much HPOP pressure would dump too much fuel while cranking if the injectors were able to fire, and I’m not seeing smoke when cranking.
Thanks for the link, I’ll check it out.
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Are there compatibility issues between PCMs? I could possibly swap my friend’s PCM into the non-starting vehicle as a test. I believe both vehicles are 2002-2003 E-series.
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To my understanding PCM's w/ the same X code will swap fine. There are some other cross compatible PCM's but I forget the particulars and I'd hate to give you bad info and make things worse.
To my understanding PCM's w/ the same X code will swap fine. There are some other cross compatible PCM's but I forget the particulars and I'd hate to give you bad info and make things worse.
My understanding of Hall effect sensors is that they pretty much work or don’t, and this can be intermittent, but that it would never produce a
wrong or wrongly timed signal. Am I wrong in thinking that a faulty CPS will always stall the engine immediately due to the PCM not seeing RPM signal and ceasing to command the injectors? Is firing the injectors at the wrong time a known failure mode? Is it possible for the fueling event on these engines to somehow get out of time?
My understanding of Hall effect sensors is that they pretty much work or don’t, and this can be intermittent, but that it would never produce a
wrong or wrongly timed signal. Am I wrong in thinking that a faulty CPS will always stall the engine immediately due to the PCM not seeing RPM signal and ceasing to command the injectors? Is firing the injectors at the wrong time a known failure mode? Is it possible for the fueling event on these engines to somehow get out of time?
It sounds like you’ve got fuel pressure & HPOP pressure which are needed to run. But the PCM requires seeing certain things while cranking before it says to fire the injectors. I can never remember the list but I wonder if that may be happening here.
ICP > 500psi
Engine speed > 150 rpm
Battery > 10.5 volts
Those are my guesses of values but don’t put a ton of faith in them. If you can watch these things while cranking it may give a clue.
Unless you find something soon, I would consider sending the IDM and PCM off to dieseltechchatt. He will run diagnostics on them and either give you the all clear or fix the issues. I’ve never heard a bad review of that company.
https://youtu.be/lVqX4e1RYRQ?si=mvKTMPf6obofmmsT
It sounds like you’ve got fuel pressure & HPOP pressure which are needed to run. But the PCM requires seeing certain things while cranking before it says to fire the injectors. I can never remember the list but I wonder if that may be happening here.
ICP > 500psi
Engine speed > 150 rpm
Battery > 10.5 volts
Those are my guesses of values but don’t put a ton of faith in them. If you can watch these things while cranking it may give a clue.
Unless you find something soon, I would consider sending the IDM and PCM off to dieseltechchatt. He will run diagnostics on them and either give you the all clear or fix the issues. I’ve never heard a bad review of that company.
Thanks everyone for the replies. I believe I am satisfying all of the basic parameters the PCM needs as it is sending a pulse to the injectors while cranking.
I am going to work on the truck some tomorrow. I’m going to focus on making sure I have fuel at the rails (testing fuel pressure on the post-filter port and cracking the fuel lines at the heads) and trying to get the block heater plugged in, hopefully thinning the oil enough so that the injectors will be able to fire.
If neither of those work, I may send the IDM and PCM to Diesel Tech. Thanks all for the suggestion.










