Need new turbo, 1.15, 1.0, or 0.84?
#31
So that swivel set from HF doesnt have a 15mm, cant beleive I didnt notice that. It goes from 14mm to 16mm, 15 is the only one it skips.
Could you please specify exactly how you did this?
My stubby 15mm box wrench only fits on the nut while pressed up against the turbo housing, so it cant turn at all. I'm talking about the drivers side nut here.
I uses a 3/8 swivel set from harbor freight and cut a combo wrench in half to use with a BF hammer
I ended up cutting a box end wrench in half (in retrospect i would have cut a bit closer to the open end instead of directly in half) and then i took a chunk of 3/4" round stock i had laying about, cut a slot in it, and used that to beat on that wrench
#32
Edit - if your wrench doesnt have an offset box end it won't work either
#34
No i got both of them from the top. I tried cutting one of the two from the bottom but i couldnt get that mess out so i had to wedge it in there good and try again. Was not fun. Beat using a hacksaw but was definitely a much bigger mess with some collateral damage i was not happy about.
Just a heads up, be careful of the drivers side fuel fitting on the back of the motor as well as taking your alternator plugs off so you don't damage them leaning over the motor. On my 97 i could not find a replacement and had to teflon tape it and hope for the best after i damaged the poor thing. Had to pull the turbo and DS up pipe again to get at that fitting.. honestly while you got the mess out i'd just look at that fitting there and make sure its tight lol
Just a heads up, be careful of the drivers side fuel fitting on the back of the motor as well as taking your alternator plugs off so you don't damage them leaning over the motor. On my 97 i could not find a replacement and had to teflon tape it and hope for the best after i damaged the poor thing. Had to pull the turbo and DS up pipe again to get at that fitting.. honestly while you got the mess out i'd just look at that fitting there and make sure its tight lol
#35
#36
This is my swivel socket for the exhaust collector bottom bolts. It works for me, tricky though. It's not easy, and sometimes stopping and resuming the next day allows you to clear your thoughts. Not sure if this helps you. I have taken off my turbo at least 4 times. One tip, don't tighten the bottom up pipe hardware until everything else is done. That will allow easier access to your pedestal base bolt as the up pipes will have a little play.
#38
I did mine from the bottom with combination of swivel, extensions and swivel socket. While on the bottom I had a helper up top holding the socket onto the bolts to keep it in place. With all the flex of the swivels the extra pair of hands keeping the socket in place did the trick. Wasn’t an easy task but worked for me.
best to get the up pipes in if you ever drop the tranny.
worst bolt for me so far was the one that holds the tranny dip stick to side of motor. That both had me saying combinations of words that I’ve never said. Sounded like Joe Pesci from the movie Home Alone.
best to get the up pipes in if you ever drop the tranny.
worst bolt for me so far was the one that holds the tranny dip stick to side of motor. That both had me saying combinations of words that I’ve never said. Sounded like Joe Pesci from the movie Home Alone.
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#39
I went to my buddys house and grabbed some more tools, he is a diesel mechanic, so this stuff is mostly snap-on. He is going to swing by after work today If i cant get that bolt off. One of the tool sets I got from him is a Sunex brand swivel socket set, this just barely fits on there.
What brand swivel is that Harvey? It looks just like the one I snapped like a twig.
Its a new day, and im freshly coffee'd, so lets see if I can gat that damn thing off.
What brand swivel is that Harvey? It looks just like the one I snapped like a twig.
Its a new day, and im freshly coffee'd, so lets see if I can gat that damn thing off.
#41
I'm at work now, but it was a cheap brand. Definitely not snap on or craftmens. If it's the first time cracking those bolts, they will be difficult. Definitely will need a cheater bar on the end of the rachet. I use 3/4" EMT conduit and u can cut to length. I never thought of using a 1/4 drive because I would think the tools would have the strength. But the 1/4 set may sit better in those tight areas.
also, the YouTube videos state to use the 1/4 tools on the rear right pedestal bolt if u have the original pedestal with the ebpv actuator housing. That's the only way u can get that bolt out btw.
also, the YouTube videos state to use the 1/4 tools on the rear right pedestal bolt if u have the original pedestal with the ebpv actuator housing. That's the only way u can get that bolt out btw.
#42
#43
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#44
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#45