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78 460, LONG Cold Crank to Start... Ideas?

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  #31  
Old 08-31-2023, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
It's not evaporation, or if it is then there is yet another severe flaw in the design. . I could start my rig cold on a cool day, move it 50 feet and the next morning have to crank it for 30 seconds. and even if all the ethanol left I should still have more than enough as left to start. it's an Edelbrock problem, you need to figure out how to fix it let it hit the dumpster.

y.
Originally Posted by tbear853
Reads like you had something else going on, like a hole in the carb or low floats or watered gas ... I notice longer starts after sitting with the Edelbrock, but only after sitting for days ... after being parked with a very warm engine underneath. Enough days pass ... even a Holley will do it.
X2 something else was going on if it only sat a day and had to crank it a long time for it to start.
Now they say the Edel run leaner over the Holley's but if you only gave it 1 pump maybe that carb motor setup needs 2 pumps?
Yep the only time I have to crank long is after sitting for a week between trash runs.
I also do car shows after the trash run so when the truck is parked it is hot so between the hot engine bay and the week sitting no fuel in float bowl.
Dave ----
 
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  #32  
Old 08-31-2023, 06:10 PM
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I keep a squeeze bottle with gas in it next to my truck. Pull the breather cover and give the carb a healthy squirt.
It's just something you get used to.
 
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  #33  
Old 08-31-2023, 09:24 PM
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Maybe Edelbrock can market a bottle and holder that attaches to the air cleaner.
 
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  #34  
Old 09-01-2023, 07:38 AM
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Check I post on starter solenoid. Make sure it's putting out full battery voltage while it's cranking.
 
  #35  
Old 09-01-2023, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
Maybe Edelbrock can market a bottle and holder that attaches to the air cleaner.
Such would work on a Holley too. I see an "Entreprenual Opportunity" for you ... include a remote solenoid valve to operate it, might include a float needle so it refills like a float bowl too?
 
  #36  
Old 09-06-2023, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LandAndStone
I use non-ethanol gas in my 351. Hot restart in the summer is a problem. Gas type doesn’t fix the issue. Spacers don’t fix the issue. Both help but don’t resolve hot starts. Waiting for Fall.

Long cold starts also unaffected by fuel type. I chock mine up to evaporation (see link in above post). 4-5 pumps. 2-3 cranks. Then easy start.

I’d love to hear about some possible remedies. But I’m not pouring oil in my tank. 😏
Since you posted, I've been devising my own "system", purposefully following a set of steps I find that work well with my Edelbrock 600 with manual choke. I have driven the '77 some since, and have started it several times some days, moving it as working on my shroud, etc ... looking for shade in the heat.

After sitting all night, 3 pumps on the pedal and just about half choke ... and it starts. Even worked after a couple days. Just sitting same day, even hot, I open the door and look to be sure it's in park, then just turn key to start ... me standing on the ground just reaching in.

After this whole thread, I got to paying attention to what works and making personal note of it, not just listening & playing it by ear. I think I was maybe even flooding it sometimes before?

 
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  #37  
Old 09-07-2023, 07:29 PM
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Tbear The issue of long crank times shows up when it sits a week or more and the fuel in the carb evaporates.
My truck will start pretty easy even after sitting 2 or 3 days but a full week a lot of cranking till the carb fills again.
Dave ----
 
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Old 09-08-2023, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Tbear The issue of long crank times shows up when it sits a week or more and the fuel in the carb evaporates.
My truck will start pretty easy even after sitting 2 or 3 days but a full week a lot of cranking till the carb fills again.
Dave ----
Oh, I'm with you ... but I expect it after a week or two sitting. It was next day that perturbed me most ... but like said, might have been bad habit causing it for me.

I wonder if a large plastic bag or just a snug wrapping around the open exposed air cleaner element would slow evaporation. I bet a heavy canvas duffle bag draped over the air cleaner would help. If the access to free air is closed off, looks like it would slow evaporation a bit. Gasoline will evaporate only to the point that the air above it is saturated. Like if I put a gallon of gasoline in a 5 gallon can and close it, next year there'll still be a gallon in the can. Some manufacturers had bowl vent controls to stop evaporation. I'll try it out once I find the right stuff, just hang it on a hook out in the air when not being used like when I'm driving the truck.. Just a weighted covering that drops lower than the air cleaner might do it, preventing free air passing through the air cleaner. I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't expect gas fumes of evaporating gas to first rise from a float bowl into a air cleaner inner sanctum ... then turn down and crawl out from the air cleaner element under a covering?

Reminds me ... My wheelhorse has a 7" OD filter and I used to have a chrome top on it, but it exposed the element to a lot of grass, etc. I bought an aluminum bean pot that measured big enough to cover the element and provide a ring of open access to air from below. I knocked the handles off, drilled a hole for the stud, and while it once had the same issue of hard starting with the chrome top, it starts really quick after a week or two or three between yard mowings. I had not given starting a big thought, I knew it was just evaporated fuel leaving a dry carburetor, but the vacuum operated pump refilled it. I did it to cut down on air cleaner clogging ... but it does now start fast with just a little choke with the bean pot lid, like in seconds after weeks being parked..

I don't have a pic, but imagine the aluminum bean pot in place, it's big enough that there is about 3/8" opening where it continues to below the lower edge of that filter, the engine can still suck plenty of air in.

I have an idea.

Couple years ago, bought that large aluminum roaster. I used the lid to make a second, different, aluminum air cleaner top cover to carry any water past my element. It would be easy to simply place the bottom deeper pan part upside down, just for trial. If it seems to help, I'll then go from there. Like imagine a lid that covers to below the carburetor top? Another idea, simply a 3"+ wide band wrapped around the open element, with a quick release? Under that dome is a 14" diameter regular air cleaner top with a second wing nut, the dome gave room for it.



If I just cover it for long term parking, I'd puit a reminder tag on the steering wheel.
Eliminating most evaporation of the float bowl while parked is as good as refilling a near empty one when next needed I think.

The lid before I trimmed it back in diameter and ...


The roaster it then fit ... as it sits on a shelf now.


Later .....................

UPDATED 09-09-23:
Maybe an electric pump at the tank that can be drawn through, operated by a momentary contact push button as needed. Then if the truck's been sitting long, like weeks, just push the button until the pump slows down, then start it. BUT ... after having had mechanical fuel pumps fail, I'm not likely to go this route ... that could still pump gas into oil through a leaking near dead mechanical fuel pump.

I also realize that my old truck will maybe crank for a few seconds as is, sometimes as much 5 or more seconds. It is during these times that I see it still builds oil pressure (so not a bad thing). I don't subject my starter to long grinds either, I do give it a break if it seems to not want to start right off. Taking a few seconds to start really ain't all that bad. Long periods can be hard on starters though, so once I see the oil gauge flicker, I'm ready for it to light off ... and it flickers pretty quick once the starter starts turning it over.

Someday I might stumble on the right pot at a flea market, but this thick aluminum roaster pictured is pretty handy otherwise ...I might still do it (as it is the purpose for which I bought it), but I'm gonna think more on it first. I went ahead and moved the FPR 3" further away from the 14" OD air cleaner's edge ... "just because".
 
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