Possible Outboard Drum Conversion _ Questions
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Possible Outboard Drum Conversion _ Questions
My understanding is that mine and most 1980-1986 DRW trucks have the 6-1/4" brake drums (actual height = 6.27") = Inboard
RockAuto also lists for our models several options of so-called 7-1/8 (actual measure = 7.05), an increase in height of 0.78" - a bit over 3/4" - just maybe enough to work in an outboard conversion.
Both call for 12 x 3.00 brakes.
Both are 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.
Are these 7-1/8 drums outboard ? Dana ? Sterling ?
Also, much mention is made of a 10.25 ring gear = what ?
When did the DRWs all become outboard ? Was it before the conversion to those Communist bolt-pattern wheels ?
I cannot remember --- are my inboard drums mounted on the inner side of the hub or on the outer side ? in that, do the studs spline into the drum or into the hub ?
Yes, I know I could just find a outboard drum Sterling and swap the whole thing; but, then I could open a whole can of worms with possible chipped teeth, bad carrier bearings, worn out limited slip, bad wheel bearings and so forth and so on and put me further in the poor house.
Plus my collection of wheels may not fit a Sterling.
RockAuto also lists for our models several options of so-called 7-1/8 (actual measure = 7.05), an increase in height of 0.78" - a bit over 3/4" - just maybe enough to work in an outboard conversion.
Both call for 12 x 3.00 brakes.
Both are 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.
Are these 7-1/8 drums outboard ? Dana ? Sterling ?
Also, much mention is made of a 10.25 ring gear = what ?
When did the DRWs all become outboard ? Was it before the conversion to those Communist bolt-pattern wheels ?
I cannot remember --- are my inboard drums mounted on the inner side of the hub or on the outer side ? in that, do the studs spline into the drum or into the hub ?
Yes, I know I could just find a outboard drum Sterling and swap the whole thing; but, then I could open a whole can of worms with possible chipped teeth, bad carrier bearings, worn out limited slip, bad wheel bearings and so forth and so on and put me further in the poor house.
Plus my collection of wheels may not fit a Sterling.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I dont under stand what you are talking about this inboard and outboard thing?
As far as I know all brake drum shoes are measured in Dia. looks like 12"
and how wide they are 3"?
Only big brakes I worked on was a 76 E350 van that was rated for 1.25 ton loads and dont remember any issues with getting brake parts.
Dave ----
As far as I know all brake drum shoes are measured in Dia. looks like 12"
and how wide they are 3"?
Only big brakes I worked on was a 76 E350 van that was rated for 1.25 ton loads and dont remember any issues with getting brake parts.
Dave ----
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Inboard brake drums require that the axle-shaft be removed and the hub with drum solidly attached be removed by removing the big wheel-bearing nut and all bearings BEFORE one can see and access anything about the rear brakes; ..... all the while with 90-wt dripping off your elbows.
Outboard brake drums = all you need do is remove the wheels and slide the drum off; the axle, wheel-bearings, etc. remain unmolested.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
Concerning all floating axle rear-ends:
Inboard brake drums require that the axle-shaft be removed and the hub with drum solidly attached be removed by removing the big wheel-bearing nut and all bearings BEFORE one can see and access anything about the rear brakes; ..... all the while with 90-wt dripping off your elbows.
Outboard brake drums = all you need do is remove the wheels and slide the drum off; the axle, wheel-bearings, etc. remain unmolested.
Inboard brake drums require that the axle-shaft be removed and the hub with drum solidly attached be removed by removing the big wheel-bearing nut and all bearings BEFORE one can see and access anything about the rear brakes; ..... all the while with 90-wt dripping off your elbows.
Outboard brake drums = all you need do is remove the wheels and slide the drum off; the axle, wheel-bearings, etc. remain unmolested.
I still dont think it matters as long as you have the size of the shoes to order the right parts.
Dave ----
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,990
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From: Virginia
All the dana's had the inboard drums or the drums mounted behind the axle hub. The Sterlings where mounted outboard of the hub. I have never heard of anyone converting one, not sure it can be done. You would pretty much have to retro fit a sterling drum on it, since that drum would be machined flat on the correct side. The dana drums would all be machine flat on the outboard face where they mate to the rear of the hub.
I think you should swap complete axles if you are that concerned about it, or just bite the bullet and deal with what you have. In reality, if you get in there and replace all the brake stuff, put new wheel seals in place, and pre-pack the bearings with a little grease, that should last you many miles before you have to go back in. I would replace both brake wheel cylinders, and don't forget to replace the parking brake cables.
I think you should swap complete axles if you are that concerned about it, or just bite the bullet and deal with what you have. In reality, if you get in there and replace all the brake stuff, put new wheel seals in place, and pre-pack the bearings with a little grease, that should last you many miles before you have to go back in. I would replace both brake wheel cylinders, and don't forget to replace the parking brake cables.
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