With cp4 pump failures being “somewhat” of an issue with the 6.7l power stroke, I’ve been using diesel kleen as an additive. Are the additives just snake oil, or do they really help with the longevity of the fuel system?

 

Personally, I would say the CP4 is more than somewhat of an issue. It is the most significant shortcoming of the 6.7 PSD IMHO. That said, when it works it is great, when it fails well you know....

Anyways, the most comprehensive study I have seen is about 16 years old:

https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTec...itive_test.pdf

It is a bit long in the tooth now (think that was the last year of the 6.0) but it is one of the more detailed analysis I have seen. I am not religious about additives but when I do, I usually run stanadyne which at least anecdotally should help the fuel system. Biodiesel would be even better but harder to come by for me. Since this study came out, a lot of options have been added to the list.... Archoil, Hotshots, etc all have additive products but I don't know how well they work. Some people on here run them and like them.

Bosch also did a study 20 years ago on the status of diesel fuel in the US.... it wasn't pretty and I can't imagine it has gotten any better:

ww2.arb.ca.gov/sites/default/files/classic/isd/fuels/gasoline/meeting/2003/022003bosch.pdf

One more thing to add, a lot of parts of the country now require a certain level of biodiesel in diesel and it isn't always labeled I don't believe so depending on where you live your fuel could have better lubricity.

 

You'll get a lot of different answers from not using them, to sometimes using them (maybe in just winter season for cold weather) to using them all the time.

I fall into the category of using them every tank. I use K100D+ and I also use Pittsburgh Power's Max Mileage FBC which is rebranded Better Diesel FBC.

I use K100 because it's a multi function additive. Other additives, that I'm not familiar with, have many different additives to do different things. I'm not saying K100 is the best... I'm just saying I use it. The main reasons I started using it early on in my truck's life was for moisture protection, lubricity and anti-gelling in winter time. It does more. Do your own research and find what you think will best for you.

You'll get different answers here as this is the same as asking what oil, what grade and what type to use. Opinions are many. Some think it's snake oil as they trust the fuel they buy at the large, high traffic fuel stations and that's okay. Others will use additive just in winter time for anti-gel in the colder regions. Me? I'm a "Rather have and not need then need and not have" guy, like a EDC conceal carry for example. This applies to my fuel. But I'm just one opinion here in the many you will find. You have to find what works best for you and your pocket book.

And as to the CP4, look into the S&S DPK Gen 2 kit. Lots of threads here including mine as I just recently finally installed mine. Good luck.

 

From my understanding Rufus, I believe you'll find anywhere from a B2 to a B5 across the country, just like ethanol being mixed in now with gas... I could be wrong but maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

In the owners manual for my 2017, Ford says to use it and they specify their own Motorcraft brand.

 

I'm using a mix of Opti-Lube Summer+ and XL. Cheap insurance if you ask me. Looks like Opti-Lube got rid of their handy comparison chart on their website but Google helped my find one.

 

The thing about that doesn't make sense to me is why did Bosch include DLC friction reducing coatings and a roller tappet which again is to reduce friction then? To me it appears Bosch designed this pump with our scar ratings in mind.

I don't run fuel additives other than to give one a try to see if I can measure a benefit. Ran a bottle of Hot Shots EDT treatment earlier this year with no fuel economy or engine performance improvements. I'm not against additives as I was the one who brought Rev X to the table in the 6.0PSD forum years ago that eliminated the stiction problem that many claimed it was snake oil until they tried it.

 

I have heard that as well but haven't seen how reliable that biodiesel number is in the fuel... is it 5%, .5%, 0%.... what is it. Honestly, I have a place with a B99 pump 20 miles from me, at some point I should go grab a 5 gallon jug and add a gallon to so to each tank.

RevX, I haven't heard that huge slug of boron (IIRC?) in a while...

I am not saying Bosch isn't trying, I do wonder if those coatings so loose efficacy after a certain number of hours.

 

I would like to believe, knowing that the US lubricity standards are worse than the EU (HFRR <520 vs <46), that Bosch would have designed the CP4 used here in the US, to be sufficiently lubricated at the reduced lubricity standard of our diesel fuel. It just wouldn't make any sense to supply a product in the US market, that knowingly cant last with our fuel.

The biodiesel content doesn't require labeling unless it's over 5%. So yeah, it could be any % up to that. My opinion though is, and I have no basis for it, is that no matter if it's 1% or 5% bio, I bet they are only aiming for the final product to just meet the minimum lubricity standard. In other words, a fuel with 1% bio could just be using other lubricity additives to meet the minimum, instead of a higher bio content to meet that same minimum.

 

6.0 is oil driven fuel system…that’s why revx is inscope

for a 6.7, revx would not be in scope since 6.7 has a fuel driven fuel system.

 

Understood and is why I no longer use Rev X. My point was I'm not against additives when proven they provide value in which Rev X did for the 6.0PSD. Having said that, I'm not convinced fuel additives prevent CP4 failures or add longevity. I could be wrong..

 

Yes boron was the main ingredient to reduce stiction. Works great on older 6.0PSD injectors.

 

Sure enough on page 189 of the manual, but it’s sort of contradicting.

Says an additive is not necessary if using a high quantity fuel.

Also says aftermarket additives can damage fuel injectors and motor.

Then says use motorcraft additive or equivalent(which is aftermarket lol) if you suspect low cetane.

 

After reading enough of these threads and never adding anything to the fuel I figured why not it was only $17 at wally world for this Hot Shot's Secret EDT bottle and no need to remeasure or carry extra containers when you can sqeeze an once in. Roughly get 14 treatments out of the container or $1.06 per treatment. That's not breaking the bank at all.

 

Just turned 110k miles today running my aftermarket additive... no damage here. And like Al says, is cheap, and cheap being a relative term, insurance IMO... but to each their own.