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Transmission drop is gonna happen, i think. Im havong trouble engaging gears from parked. Assuming the clutch is still good, will i need anything besides a pilot bearing, and shift fork? Planning to do the valley drain. And insulate the hump while its out.
drain master remove slave and push in fully fill master push slave fully and let extend ten times install slave
done
if still low, the see if its the clutch fork pivot worn
The shift forks are in the trans and its bottom loaded.
not fun but doable with most harbor freight tools
you need to measure bearing preload before you re assemble and get a new input seal and special nilos ring for the input bearing
Ok, so maybe im talling sbout the clutch fork, not shift forks? Wasnt planning to break open the transmission at all. But i suppose i do need to go through the master and slave. I suppose half my issue would be resolved if im not getting correct travel when i clutch.
I went and watched the r&r on master/slave... so do i just need to remove the fill cap, and then manually cycle the slave rod?
i get about 2 inches travel on the pedal, without the rod on the master moving, due to the hiem being worn... then i can very easily push the pedal/rod travel almost to the floor, before i hit resistance. And my shifting has been degrading over the last few months, im quite literally pushing the clutch pedal to the floor. I have no travel left.
How do i determine replacement on this system, vs bleeding and keeping?
I found the master cylinder R&R to be way more of a PITA to do if I didn't really need to do that. Just do the bleed procedure in the truck.
I guess that it's a personal preference.
Ok. I opened the fluid cap, topped off, went under and pushed the slave on a dozen times. Got fluid overflow.
reinstalled slave. Master/pedal still has no resistance until the last 2 inches of available travel. i took a picture where the slave pushes. Do i need a new master cylinder, or is there a bigger issue? Normal or nah?
Since I'm not there to judge for myself.....
The symptoms you are describing sound very much like there is still air in the master/slave system. If the fork were bent and the slave was hyperextending the clutch pedal would stop at the point where the slave cylinder ran out of travel and the pedal would be unyielding. Not go any further down if there was no air in the hydraulic system.
I was omwondering if that could be the case.... since i did the manual cycling of the slave, with the cap off, and got overflow... woukd it vlbe reasonable to assume the air is in the master itself? Meaning id need to figure out how to bleed it, without intrducing air to the slave.
Just give the air bubbles a clear path to the top with several cycles of the cylinder assembly and you should be good to go. When I did my Master/Slave assembly it was real easy to purge the bubbles. Just give them time to rise to the top and be expelled.
