I have a 1995 F250, 2wd, auto and need recommendations on brake booster and MC w/cruise control, preferably sold as a combo. I purchased a Cardone brake booster about a year ago and it failed. Reinstalled original again which is worn out (hissing when pressing pedal) and is progressively failing do to its old age. Just want to purchase a reliable booster and replace the MC this time but having trouble finding an MC with cruise. Any recommendations on what/where to purchase and write up on correct procedure would be appreciated, Also will be replacing the rear drum brakes too, any tips about this process would be great. Thanks for taking the time to read.

 

AutoZone has it
ask for the AC version
you have to swap the rear adapter over though
dont forget the booster tool to measure clearance

take apic of rear drums brakes before you dis assemble
loosen axle bolts and check wheel bearing torque first
i only needed pliers and a Philips to pry the springs, pretty easy to do IMO
lube those ebrake cables and pivots well

 

thanks for the reply. What does AC version mean? Do they have the tool to measure the clearance and what is the clearance needed? Is there any info you can provide on bench bleeding the new MC. Obviously I will have to bleed the system starting from passenger rear and finishing at driver front with RABS being bleed in between rear and front. Is that sequence correct?

 

You want to start with the closest to the MC. I start at the front drivers side, then the other front, drivers side rear, then the other rear.

 

ok. I was under the impression it was starting furthest away. Thanks for clarifying the bleeding sequence. When do you do the RABS?

 

sorry meant the CC version, it has the port for the sensor

 

bench bleed is simnple
connect the hoses back into MC
fill mc
push slow and after a few it will pump fluid only, cap lines then install fast with out losing much fluid

.020 gap MC to booster

 

I have never had to bleed the RABs. I would think doing it in between doing the front and the rears.

 

Thanks for the replies. Appreciate the time and tips.

 

do you know if this master cylinder came with a proportioning valve? I saw this one on rock auto saying it doesn’t include the valve. Others do not state if they have the valve or not. Just curious as I read that valve is important in trucks.



Proportioning valve not included

States nothing about proportioning valve




thanks

 

no, you re use the old valve, just unscrews

 

I installed the new booster (old one hissed) and it improved the braking but the holding of the pedal is spotty. Grabs sometimes and others it will hit then slowly push towards floor. So I believe it’s the MC internal seals are not holding properly. I also purchased a new vacuum pump. So hopefully after all is installed and everything is bleed, I’ll have true brakes. Thanks Knotty.

 

Make sure your rear shoes are adjusted properly as that too will give you the "slow pedal to the floor" feeling.

 

thanks. I read that it is a symptom too. Can that be done from the adjuster wheel on backside of hub? I’ll do it following the MC install if it still persist. Appreciate the response.

on another note, I’m looking to change out my steering box. Do you know know a write up thread. The truck is a 2WD, if that matters.

 

Yes you can adjust the shoes with the adjuster wheel, the only thing I would do is to make sure the locking arm is holding tne adjuster wheel as it can back up and give you no brakes.

As for steering box, pretty straight forward 4 bolts hold it down on the driver side frame, one bolt holding the steering shaft in place, and the drag link has to be knocked out.