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I have a problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I have a fresh rebuilt FE390 (stock build) with about 2K on it. Recently, it developed a rattle when my dad was driving it (and who likely drove it too long after the rattle began). He pulled the valve cover and found the hydraulic lifter missing in the #6 cylinder (intake side). He and a friend managed to fish it out from under the intake, and found the end of it gone. Well not gone, but a hole in it that appears to match up with the plunger inside. What in the world would cause that?
They replaced the lifter and all seemed good, but when I arrived here and took it for a drive, the rattle returned. I'm guessing it's the same lifter (from what I can tell with a stethoscope, and am now stumped.
Any ideas? I'm guessing the cam lobe is smoked (although I'm told they looked at it with a wire camera and said it looked fine). The pushrod is good - no bends or anything. The valve train appears to be functioning properly (visually - I had the valve cover off, disconnected the battery and cranked it and observed), but I suppose the problem could be in there also.
What are the chances of having 2 bad lifters?
Would appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.
Edit - unsure how I got the title wrong, but ignore the "year" part. Should have been FE 390 lifter ISSUES
Did you add a zinc additive to your oil? If not, that is likely the cause. Today's oils had zinc removed. This spelled bad news for older flat tappet engines. It's not a problem with current roller motors.
Cam is trash and most likely other lifters as well. Also check the cam and crankshaft bearings. That much metal floating around is bound to cause all sorts of damage.
This type of failure can happen from so many causes it might be impossible to really track it down. An improperly ground cam lobe or lifter which caused it to not rotate in the bore can cause this sort of thing to happen quickly. Valvetrain with unrealistically high spring loads, coil bind etc can cause this to happen too and one of those things should be pretty easy to find. If the engine was assembled with the cam and or lifters dry or heavily lubricated with grease on the sides of the lifters this can happen too. Lube only lobes and the bottoms of the lifters using moly lube or some of the specialty stuff like the Driven Assembly grease. Journals and bearings should get only oil and not grease.
You're going to have to tear it down and get it all cleaned out inside. There will be an amazing amount of trash in the oil pan as well as the rest of the engine. Spray down the parts with Purple Power or similar cleaner and then pressure wash with hot soapy water to break down the oil and get rid of the grit.
Well hell...not what I was hoping for but what I thought was probably the case. Thanks for all the feedback. Time to pull the motor and begin again.
About the zinc - I think that was probably the issue or at least a contributor. I didn't know about that until recently. An expensive lesson learned.
When you get it apart take a look at all of the lobes and lifters. Are most all of them worn excessively or are a few or one worn while the rest look fine?
The performance of the oil when it comes to wear in the engine is a combination of many factors and not just zinc levels on their own. Sure higher zinc levels can help but it also depends on the levels and types of other additives that are in the oil.
I use 5W40 synthetic diesel oil in my 428CJ. Diesel oil still has ZDDP in it. Been using it for probably 10 years now. The CJ loves it and still looks immaculate inside.
I had this exact same issue. In the valley under the intake make sure there's a plug in the hole on the back part of the valley. I rebuilt one and couldn't figure out why it was knocking. Turns out that plug was gone and the top end wasn't getting any oil pressure. If that cam and lifter is gone you're gonna have to rebuild it again. Those metal shavings had to go somewhere.
Thanks! It's due to go to the rebuilder on the 28th of this month. I'll post up what is found. I'm hoping for minimum damage, but knowing my luck with this damned truck, I expect the worst. Anyone want to buy a frame off restored 76 short box 4x4?
Well, as most thought, the motor needs to be rebuilt. Cylinders are scored, etc. Lots of work to do. My main concern is that I think it was a 352 block, bored over to make it a "stock" 390. If this is true, and it needs another .30 over to remove the scaring...well, that's out. The builder will check the casting numbers to confirm, and we will figure it out from there.
Casting numbers don't tell you much on an FE and nearly all of them even 427s say "352"... A sonic test will tell the tale.
Now that I think about it, he did mention a sonic test, but I didn't understand the reasoning, because I have no idea what a sonic test is LOL. Off to google land I go.
Thanks!
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