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I dont think you are asking too much to start unaided at or below 0F. That was my objective since I am too cheap to keep my block heater plugged in for long periods of time.
I learned a lesson on my e99: the stock alternator is horrible at recharging the batts at low rpms. If your driving profile when it is cold is not at speed for extended periods, then your batteries never get fully charged from one drive to the next. Letting it idle for awhile to let it warm up doesn't give the kick in the pants the batteries need after a couple of glow plug cycles and super cold start. Also, unless you isolate the terminals (with those knife blade switches for example), these old dogs have some measure of current draw that doesn't help matters. For me, as the cold weather dragged on, the starting got worse.
Once I added the tender (as well as upping my cable/wiring game, going with the Prestolite IdlePro (I think that is it)) I moved away from plugging the heater in around 0F for an hour or so to not bothering until it was <-20F. By my observation, a successful and relatively quick cold start results from that starter spinning at speed right away. That 1 or 2 second lag before the starter gets going as fast as it can (in the cold) is a guarantee for those longer cranks.
The same goes with the jump box, if you havent been able to get the batts on a tender. You need that "hole shot".
I'm going to jump in here again and tell about a repair that I did many of for people that suffered dead batteries in the winter. I used to live in Seattle and the daily commute on I-5 both ways was making good time if it moved at 15 mph on a lot of days. Definately not enough MPH to get the motor up to operating speed. In the winter, the headlights, wipers, heater, and if equipped, the AC would be on to extract the water from the air so the defrost would work better. What I found was the designers would specify a good alternator, but the charge circuit was less than adequite to keep up with demand. Some of the older vehicles had aluminum core wiring in the alternator wiring harness, as well. With no load on the circuit there would be adequite voltage at the battery, but as soon as you turn on some accessories, then there would be a huge voltage drop between the alternator and the battery. 14.25 at the alternator and 13.5 at the battery. What I did was to either replace the entire wiring harness with heavier guage copper core wire, or in most cases, simply install another cable parallel to the existing system. Doing this one thing never failed to correct the customer's issue with a dead battery next morning, even in the brutal conditions of a slow commute and just about ever accessory turned on. The alternator itself is able to keep up, I've found, but it's usually the wiring where the culprit lies.
It's the same issue with our trucks, is my opinion, and I installed the same setup on my 550 a very long time ago, the first thing I noticed is the dashboard volt meter sits at a higher voltage than it used to. I have 14v at the battery posts with everything on and the PHP chip set on high idle 1400 rpm. I believe that you will find this a worthwhile investment of your time if you decide to install something similar. The 4 guage wire with the red heat shrink on each end plus wrapped in split loom for protection. One at the battery positive post and the other end at the alternator output post. 2 guage ground wire. The other end goes to one of the bolts holding the alternator down.
I was figuring that…. I have a set ready to go in. Unfortunately I went with Full Force which I hear is not so good these days
I would ditch (sell) the FF injectors and talk with either @Bitterroot Diesel or @DZL JIM about rebuilding your originals or going with an all new set.
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