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Crank no start, no spark/poor spark

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Old 07-14-2023, 11:48 PM
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Crank no start, no spark/poor spark

Working on a 223 that’s in a 54’ f-250. Ran rough and hard to start, but it worked. Needed some work done so me and a friend took the head off and sent it to a machine shop to freshen it up a bit.
Everything went back together real nice, but we’re having a real hard time trying to get this thing to pop off. My knowledge on distributors and 6 volt systems is very poor, never worked on something this old before.
Pulled spark plugs to check for spark, nothing, can’t even shock myself if I tried! And I did try. Did take some sand paper between the breaker points, just a little bit. New ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires…
I have not touched timing yet, or adjusted breaker points, or cleaned up any of the wiring running to the ignition coil. I appreciate it any input you have to offer. Funds are low and morale is down.



 
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Old 07-15-2023, 01:13 AM
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First off, the coil is wired backwards. The + terminal should go to the distributor and the - terminal to the ignition switch. However, this alone shouldn't cause a no spark scenario, but does lead me to question if you are working from an accurate wiring diagram?

I would first verify you have power to the coil (between negative terminal and ground). I would then check for pulsed power to the coil between the negative and positive terminals on the coil - these pulses should happen while cranking.

I could go on further down the troubleshooting tree, but let's start with getting the results of the above.​​
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 07:34 AM
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I would replace the points
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 08:09 AM
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Look at the items that bmoran4 asked you to. If you do have voltage between the coil and ground consider this:
We had a guy a while back who couldn't get an engine running. He changed the points and he re-connected the wires in the wrong place.He was working in the dark with just a flashlight I think so it could of been an easy mistake to make (even in good light). I don't know if you changed the points, but if you did, double check to see you have the little breaker plate ground strap tightly connected to the mounting screw under the points set. And make sure the wire connected to the terminal on the points itself is connected to the wire leading to the + terminal on your coil. Your condenser lead will connect to that same terminal on the points. If those two connections are swapped you wouldn't get spark because your coil would be constantly grounded.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 09:52 AM
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I checked power to the coil, 6 volts. I also got pulsating power on the coil while cranking, 0 to 3.5V, I switched the ignition coil wires around so ignition coil positive is going to the distributor, and negative is coming from the ignition switch. I checked for spark looks like it’s back and healthy! Still haven’t started this thing up though.

 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:02 AM
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Glad you have spark back! I wouldn't futz further with the distributor or timing as long as this was a previously running engine.

Did it not start after restoring spark because you didn't attempt to run it or is it misbehaving?

If it is still misbehaving, I'd start looking at what was touched with the head reinstallation. You have spark, so I'd look at air and fuel delivery. I presume that post reinstallation, you found TDC and whatnot and went through adjusting the valvetrain?
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
Glad you have spark back! I wouldn't futz further with the distributor or timing as long as this was a previously running engine.

Did it not start after restoring spark because you didn't attempt to run it or is it misbehaving?

If it is still misbehaving, I'd start looking at what was touched with the head reinstallation. You have spark, so I'd look at air and fuel delivery. I presume that post reinstallation, you found TDC and whatnot and went through adjusting the valvetrain?
Yes, found TDC on all 6 and adjusted valve lash, 15 thousandths for intake, 19 thousandths for exhaust. Truck is still misbehaving. I’ll check lash again. The truck ran prior to the head work, but it was still very hard to start.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:13 AM
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Truck started up right away after we installed a 12v battery, owners decision. I see a 12v conversion in this trucks future!
here’s a video.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:14 AM
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I would do a compression test as it is relatively easy. Presuming that checks out, I'd try using ether/starting fluid into the carb and give that a few goes. If she starts, then we can start looking at fuel delivery.

Edit: The above was typed out before I saw the 12V start. Below is my take on 12V:

A well maintained 6V system is just as good as a well maintained 12V system. I feel that those who boast "performance improvements" with their new 12V systems with new battery, charging apparatuses, new wires etc are comparing to a rundown 6V system. The 6V system would have the same advantages and improvements if all the same items were refreshed (and probably for a little less $$$ too)...

If you really want to convert to 12V system, it is very possible and has been done countless times, but there is no reason a refreshed 6V system can't work.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
I would do a compression test as it is relatively easy. Presuming that checks out, I'd try using ether/starting fluid into the carb and give that a few goes. If she starts, then we can start looking at fuel delivery.
we did a compression test prior to the head gasket install, bad numbers, but our head was in rough shape. Here are the previous numbers.
In order from cylinder 1 to 6
80
55
45
60
60
60
will perform another test shortly.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:26 AM
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What new coil did you install? Any chance it is a 12v coil?
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
What new coil did you install? Any chance it is a 12v coil?
specifically bought a 6v coil.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 10:58 AM
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Compression numbers

New compression numbers, looking a lot better
cylinder 1 through 6
90
120
115
110
115
105

Edit: Adjusted valve lash again, engine runs real smooth now. We are a little concerned if the rocker assembly is getting oil. We can’t tell. Thanks for all the help getting to this point, I really appreciate it!
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Truck started up right away after we installed a 12v battery, owners decision. I see a 12v conversion in this trucks future!
here’s a video.
If 12 volts got it to start and run, it sounds like you could have a bad set of battery cables. Bad battery cables are a very common issue on 6 volt systems. 12 volts could of overcome the voltage drop of the excessive resistance of the internal corrosion in the battery terminal connectors and the cables themselves. And that is assuming the 6 volt battery was good. When you were trying to start it with 6 volts, was the engine slow cranking and soleniod clicking?
There's nothing really wrong with a 6 volt system as long as you maintain good electrical connections at the battery, the starter soleniod relay, the starter itself, generator and voltage regulator, and make sure the battery, engine, firewall, and frame are all bonded (grounded) together.
If the owner wants to change the battery cables. For a 6 volt system ask him to use 2/0 gauge. And change the starter cable to 2/0 also.
 
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Old 07-15-2023, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hooler1
If 12 volts got it to start and run, it sounds like you could have a bad set of battery cables. Bad battery cables are a very common issue on 6 volt systems. 12 volts could of overcome the voltage drop of the excessive resistance of the internal corrosion in the battery terminal connectors and the cables themselves. And that is assuming the 6 volt battery was good. When you were trying to start it with 6 volts, was the engine slow cranking and soleniod clicking?
There's nothing really wrong with a 6 volt system as long as you maintain good electrical connections at the battery, the starter soleniod relay, the starter itself, generator and voltage regulator, and make sure the battery, engine, firewall, and frame are all bonded (grounded) together.
If the owner wants to change the battery cables. For a 6 volt system ask him to use 2/0 gauge. And change the starter cable to 2/0 also.
I will let him know, thanks! Yea the truck needs an entire electrical system. It’s all shot. Exposed wiring and just a real crusty system. Very slow cranking on his 6 volt system.
 


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