I'm thinking about getting some naval jelly and try it on the back sides of my fenders. I've never used any before. I don't know if it is a thick consistancy or thin. I know mixing chemicals can be dangerous. Can anyone tell me if it can be thinned for greater coverage. I hope to aventually try sandblasting, but I don't think that will get in behind braces and such. Is the jelly left on. If not how is it removed. I hate to use water for obvious reasons.

 

None the less, use Ospho instead, It is made for treating rust and sold by any reputable, quality, auto body supply & paint jobber.

It is "Old Technology" and it sprays on with a spray bottle like from a Ace Hardware store. Ospho is a phosphoric acid based compound when combined with Ferous Oxide (Fe 03) arrests the oxidation, and turns active oxidized molecules into an Oxygen (02)impervious barrier.

The surface is then wire brushed or whatever to remove scale & loose particulates. Since product catalyzes to form the barrier, it is washable, within reason, to remove un catalyzed excess & provide a surface suitable for metal prep & finishing.

You can either do the above, or go on a quest for some magic potion claiming to do what pros know Ospho already does. Many of us have come full circle and are back with Ospho.

POR generates MethylIsocyanates which they fail to publicize.
Other Magic Potions take your $$$ but don't give same results as Ospho. If the credibility here is in Question ask a Bar Member of the American Society of Corrosion Engineers what they think.

Good Luck. FBp

 

Well to answer your question.
Naval Jelly is thick like jam. It is an acid that eats rust and steel if left on to long. You have to wash it off with water and soap or better water and then baking soda and water.
As for thinning it i don't know i used the stuff once still have a small jar. Nasty stuff. READ THE BOTTLE.
Glass beading is your best bet if the panel is thick enough! If it's to thin it might warp or worse blow through.
Never heard of the stuff above, but have used POR15 for years ans love it! My brother painted the battery tray over 20 years ago when he got my 65 and it still looks like it was done last night.

44
PS: As with any product READ the labels and have the right safety equipment.

 

Thanks, I think I'll stay away from Naval Jelly. No offense to the company and I'm certainly not trying to discourage anyone else from using it. A couple of months back I bought a spray can rust converter. I tried it on the hood just to see what it would do. The problem is I don't have a good place to put it in the dry and had to deal with dew. I sprayed some on a nasty spot under the hood and since then I've had the hood in a simi open position more times than closed. It turned the rust black with some whitesh. I haven't done anymore to that spot. It seems to be holding. I'm going to scrape on it and see if there is red rust underneath. The area on top I sprayed some rustoleum automotive primer on. I saw a little rust coming back on it. I did a quick search on the Ospho and it looks reasonable enough on the price. I'm leaning toward trying it. Fordboypete....the spray bottle you are refering to, is it one of those quart size plastic bottles with a screwon adjustable spray nozzle similar to what house hold cleaners come in. By the way, when I can get going on body work, I'll get it in the dry.

 

I used the ospho for the few years I worked offshore. It will KILL the rust in a second. Let it dry then whipe/brush off excess white film before painting. Warning though some two part paints don't do so well with it, but again that was in the gulf.

Bobby

 

Sounds good to me. I have a cousin who works off shore, haven't seen him in years. Can't remember if I can say his name without rechecking the rules. He might not like it either, so I better not. Initials are CCjr. from Florida.

 

My rig offfshore quit using it, just got in an order for a couple of cases. I got a couple of gallons used on stuff around home. I like it personally. When I start to work more on my truck, it will be used. Ospho that is. There are a couple of companies making simular products, wish I could remember some of their names. some were cheaper! Good Luck whatever you decide..

Bobby

 

Try POR 15 product. It works really good.

 

Regarding POR products, everybody is entitled to their own opinion but an informed opinion is much better than assumption.

I made a reference to methylisocyanates and I see POR is being mentioned as the one magic cure all for Ferrous Oxide Corrosion. Methylisocyanate is a rather big word people may not be familiar with, or understand. Perhaps a little research is in order. Get an MSDS [oops! -> Manufacturers Safety Data Sheet as Req'd by U.S. Govt] on any Isocyanate generating compound & read it for yourselves. Polyurethane BC/CC paints make Iso's.

Isocyanates are highly toxic component created in more exotic benzine ring chemical structures, such as some epoxy, resins, polyurethane, and otner two & three part catalytic compounds. Imron Paint is an example of an Isocyanate generator which has permanently injured many commercial Auto & Aircraft painters.

Isocyanates form when ambient moisture, such as humidity in atmosphere, corrupt or dysaffect catalytic conversion of these exotic, synsathized, chemicals. The iso's form chain like structures which penetrate animal tissue causing serious to fatal damage depending on exposure rate, body weight, and cumulative times of exposure and other variables.

POR not only creates Isocyanates during catalytic curing, POR also makes a substrate that is supposed to arrest oxidation, but it does not actually arrest it, it encapsulates it in a decoupage like coating. The POR substrate is harder to paint quality Automotive finishes over than Opsho. POR also brittles with age, like Imron.

I am not trying to do/ say anything except Be Careful, Become Informed about what compounds & chemicals you may come in contact with, or use, may have the potential to do to you.
Better living through chemistry, may have a downside which turns out to be a worse death.

I like you folks here at FTE and I would not like to hear of, or see where anybody injured themselves through the use of these POR Products. Please be careful. I have some deceased friends, and 1 or 2 with terrible health problems from Isocyanate Exposure.
FBp

 

I guess I could of been a little more clear. The company that makes the por 15 has a product that is used before you apply the finished product. It is marine clean and then use the metal prep. Then you can use what ever paint you would like to use. I Have used this product in the past and it has worked quite well. I have used the por 15 on frames and have been really happy with the performance. But you must always remember to follow the instructions to a T. I do not belive in encapsulating rust as this only prolongs the problem. I belive in removing the cancer and replacing it with fresh metal. Yes we here in California do have problems with rust. It is called the ocean salt water in the air.

Safety equipment is a must at all times. I do belive though that when the big guy decides it is your time then it is your time!